Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

[Syn-fi]

hi

I have a LED lamp by Richard Sapper which, was the last product Lucesco made and it probably took them out in 2006/7, with the crash of course.

Anyway the patent concerning the lamp allows for 360 movement between joints and a counter-weight. So you have 3.5mm audio jack connectors between joints. Finally, at the base a weird Power controller which is connected to a external 20v 1a power brick.

Ok one of the joints shorted as it was not connected fully and that blew the power controller. I managed to fix this by replacing a Schottky Diode seemingly marked SS26 and also by replacing the Mosfet (3055L).

However, the power to the lamp head seems insufficient as only one half of the LEDS lights up. There are two rows which must be in series. I get -2.7v on the working ones and -500mv on the ones which do not light.

I suspect the Schottky and Mosfet were working as an 'Active Rectification' Circuit but one the components or both seems incorrect as i'm not getting the right voltages. Any ideas of what i should do next to ramp up the voltage?

[Syn-fi]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

heres some shots of the board

[Syn-fi]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

Underside has three more schottkys : 10BQ100

a 3 terminal positive regulator and then a ATMega48V 8 bit Microcontroller

The Powerbrick is fine and puts out 24.1v and the correct current.

[ben7]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

Looks to me like one of the diodes on the bottom of the board has gone pop, I see it has this slight bulge/crack in it. Can't make out the part number, but it is the middle of the three black ones. Check to see if it is shorted or open circuit.

[Syn-fi]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

hi thanks for responding.
I was beginning to think that it could be a faulty SMD LED but willing to check out the board some more as i the schottkys did bring it back to life 50Pc.

Which diode are you referring to? The small zeners on the underside DSC_9381.jpg or the larger black Zener on the topside

[Syn-fi]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

if your referring to the group of 3 shottky's 1A 100v SMB's (on the underside) i've changed them over already and its made no change. I think the crack was just cosmetic

I think given there is power to one row of LEDS the problem must be one defective LED in the other row the problem I now have is sourcing those 2pin SMD Leds or a substitute.

[ben7]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

if your referring to the group of 3 shottky's 1A 100v SMB's (on the underside) i've changed them over already and its made no change. I think the crack was just cosmetic

I think given there is power to one row of LEDS the problem must be one defective LED in the other row the problem I now have is sourcing those 2pin SMD Leds or a substitute.

Yeah, I guess the current surge popped the leds.

Could you get us some up close pictures of them? How wide and how long are they?

When replacing them, you might as well replace all of them because the new ones are likely to have a different color temperature (I.e. "cooler" as in bluish-white, or "warmer" as in yellow-white)

[Syn-fi]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

hi the problem is finding two pin SMD leds with the this pin configuration. You will see that the legs on the pins on either side are not symmetrical, they are stair-stepped.

you are right i may as replace the lot as there is already a dull one on the working array. I don't think a surge blew-it more likely a short because of the way the joints come together. Its a design defect or compromise.

If you have any ideas of SMD LEDS that could work do let me know. there are about 2.9v forwards voltage

[ben7]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

hi the problem is finding two pin SMD leds with the this pin configuration. You will see that the legs on the pins on either side are not symmetrical, they are stair-stepped.

you are right i may as replace the lot as there is already a dull one on the working array. I don't think a surge blew-it more likely a short because of the way the joints come together. Its a design defect or compromise.

If you have any ideas of SMD LEDS that could work do let me know. there are about 2.9v forwards voltage

What are the dimensions of them? (In millimeters please!)

[DownUnder]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

I have the same light and it seems the board on mine is alse defective.
Although the manufacturer has gone out of business, would anyone know where I can buy a new replacement board? Many thanks.

[Syn-fi]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

hi,
its 9mm x9mm with a slight notch on one side to indicate which way it should go in.

@DownUnder

Re. replacement board. Impossible. i've tried. I contacted the company that took over Lucesco's IP (philips Lightolier) and they had one replacement arm with light but they wanted $500 for it and 10 months later its gone.

I could have a look at the board for you or suggest components. Whats the precise problem?

[Syn-fi]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

one way to tell if the powerboard is at fault is to see if the green light on the DC powerbrick goes off when you plug it in. It should stay on at all times.

I think when the light shorts it kills off some of the Schottkys on the powerboard and at that point the DC powerbrick must have a failsafe to stop voltage going backwards and so shuts itself down. It is a product design fault in my opinion.

[ben7]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

hi,
its 9mm x9mm with a slight notch on one side to indicate which way it should go in.

@DownUnder

Re. replacement board. Impossible. i've tried. I contacted the company that took over Lucesco's IP (philips Lightolier) and they had one replacement arm with light but they wanted $500 for it and 10 months later its gone.

I could have a look at the board for you or suggest components. Whats the precise problem?

Well, I am not sue what wattage the leds run at, so, what is the current and voltage of the wall adapter? And, there are two of those led panels, right?

[Syn-fi]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

Hi,

The dc brick is 24v
There is a 5v dc fan

The the rest must go to the LEDs. There's only one led panel with two rows which must be in series. I think it's 2.4-2.9v per led from the readings I get from the working LEDs

[kc8adu]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

thats likely a series paralell arrangement.since you say part of it works i would test each led with a dvm in diode test mode.a good led will glow.
iirc those are a nichia part.they may have a similar footprint to the luxeon/k2 from from phillips lumileds.

[ben7]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

iirc those are a nichia part.they may have a similar footprint to the luxeon/k2 from from phillips lumileds.

Thanks for the idea about what replacement parts to find ... LOL I had trouble finding some.

Off to find some now...

[ben7]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

You could possibly use these, you would just have to turn them a little so it can be soldered to the pads.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...6-1-ND/1812380

[kc8adu]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

those are anode connected to heatsink pad on led.
the next issue is thermal management.how are they cooled?
the originals may not have been cooled well.looks like some browning around the die in your pic.is there a real heatsink?

[Syn-fi]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

hi re cooling

PCB is glued to a heatsink which is then connected to a 5v fan which operates on a heatpipe. I would say its adequately cooled and does not get hot.

thanks for the tips re leds. let me work at this and get back to you all.

[ben7]

Re: Lucesco Halley (Richard Sapper) Lamp PSU

hi re cooling

PCB is glued to a heatsink which is then connected to a 5v fan which operates on a heatpipe. I would say its adequately cooled and does not get hot.

thanks for the tips re leds. let me work at this and get back to you all.

Ok sounds good.

Just make sure you put them in with the correct polarity, or else they won't work. You will have to remember which polarity one of the leds has, then unsolder it, and put the new one on (with the right polarity).

That led I suggested, I am not sure if it will be anywhere near the color temperature as the originals though. (Color temp. is like: a 'warm', 'yellowy' light, or, a 'cool', 'bluish' white, etc...)