Possible bad transformer.
Collapse
X
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
Have Wincap capacitors on a soundcard that's almost as old as i am. They're still in good shape. But "Maxcap"... sounds like "Maxpower" PSUs.Originally posted by PeteS in CARemember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.Comment
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
I have a Creative sound card with some WINCAPS. They are just used for bypassing and coupling, nothing much demanding.Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.Comment
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
And... we have ourselves a transformer. I documented every step with pictures for your viewing pleasure.
Dropped it in... and IT WORKS!Everything's working fine, nothing gets hot and voltages are within spec. The only one i screwed up was the one for the VFD filaments - it ended up around 17v and lit the filaments red, and some segments were showing even when they were supposed to be off.
A 100 ohm resistor in series with the diode going to the VFD dropped that voltage to 8.15 volts, and the VFD is now working great. Sure, it's a cheap hack, but as long as it avoids taking that transformer apart again... i'll take it.
I have some parts coming in the mail including some insulated TO-220 mosfets (if you were wondering what all the kapton tape around the primary heatsink is, it's because i use a non-isolated tab part for testing right now). I'm waiting for them to arrive, and then i'm fitting the FET, fusing all rails and wrapping this thing up.Last edited by Th3_uN1Qu3; 07-24-2012, 06:42 PM.Originally posted by PeteS in CARemember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.Comment
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
And... we have ourselves a transformer. I documented every step with pictures for your viewing pleasure.
Dropped it in... and IT WORKS!Everything's working fine, nothing gets hot and voltages are within spec. The only one i screwed up was the one for the VFD filaments - it ended up around 17v and lit the filaments red, and some segments were showing even when they were supposed to be off.
A 100 ohm resistor in series with the diode going to the VFD dropped that voltage to 8.15 volts, and the VFD is now working great. Sure, it's a cheap hack, but as long as it avoids taking that transformer apart again... i'll take it.
I have some parts coming in the mail including some insulated TO-220 mosfets (if you were wondering what all the kapton tape around the primary heatsink is, it's because i use a non-isolated tab part for testing right now). I'm waiting for them to arrive, and then i'm fitting the FET, fusing all rails and wrapping this thing up.
BTW, that 100 ohm resistor will probably burn up eventually.Muh-soggy-kneeComment
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
That's why i'm replacing it with a 0.5W one tomorrow.There's a couple more resistors that i bodged, including the startup resistor for the controller, so i have to hit the store anyway.
Now that i know all voltages, i have to say that this PSU design seems even more idiotic than it looked at first glance.
There are two separate 12v windings on the transformer, with their own diodes and caps and pi filters and everything, one feeding the LCD backlight (the one wound with only one strand of 0.3mm wire, which burned due to the shorted tantalum cap), and one feeding the tuner, which was wound with two strands. PS. I used 0.2mm wire as i have like 100 meters of it on a spool, so the number of strands is different - that's of no concern to you, i did the math.I don't yet know which one of these rails the DVD motors are on, we'll see.
Also there's yet another separate winding for the VFD filaments (the one i messed up and wired to the wrong place), when they could just have used a regulator from the 12v, or just a plain simple resistor.
I'll likely parallel the 12v windings - there's no real reason for them to be that way.Last edited by Th3_uN1Qu3; 07-24-2012, 07:57 PM.Originally posted by PeteS in CARemember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.Comment
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
That's why i'm replacing it with a 0.5W one tomorrow.There's a couple more resistors that i bodged, including the startup resistor for the controller, so i have to hit the store anyway.
Now that i know all voltages, i have to say that the PSU design seems even more idiotic than it looked at first glance.
There are two separate 12v windings on the transformer, with their own diodes and everything, one feeding the LCD backlight (the one wound with only one strand of 0.3mm wire), and one feeding the tuner, which was wound with two strands. I don't yet know which one of them the DVD motors are on, we'll see.
Also there's yet another separate winding for the VFD filaments (the one i messed up and wired to the wrong place), when they could just have used a regulator from the 12v, or just a plain simple resistor.
I'll likely parallel the 12v windings - there's no real reason for them to be that way.
They probably thought that would reduce noise in the tuner.
I wouldn't be surprised if more of the circuits in that thing are weird.Muh-soggy-kneeComment
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
And... we have ourselves a transformer. I documented every step with pictures for your viewing pleasure.
Dropped it in... and IT WORKS!Everything's working fine, nothing gets hot and voltages are within spec. The only one i screwed up was the one for the VFD filaments - it ended up around 17v and lit the filaments red, and some segments were showing even when they were supposed to be off.
A 100 ohm resistor in series with the diode going to the VFD dropped that voltage to 8.15 volts, and the VFD is now working great. Sure, it's a cheap hack, but as long as it avoids taking that transformer apart again... i'll take it.
I like the way you did this repair you inspire me to want to try this when I need to make a repair like this thanks for the infoComment
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
Sure thang they are. The 12v winding with the thicker wire is for the tuner, which uses less power than the LCD which is on the thinner one!Also, the "12v" drops to 10.8v when both LCD and tuner are on. I kinda suspected that, since 5v has 3 turns, and 12v only 6... It should have been 7. I know why they did this tho - to make it efficient and cheap, they didn't bother with a minimum load resistor on 12v, and being a flyback, the voltage goes pretty high when neither LCD and tuner are operating. I measured up to 15v as the thing starts up, and 13.4v when the lid is closed and the LCD backlight is off. I can see why that tantalum blew. I tested the one i put in up to 17v, so it should be okay, and anyway, it's all fused now.
Anyway... I stopped bothering. Both diodes on the 5v got a 2A automotive fuse each, same for each 12v rail. Job done. I'll be doing the final board cleanup today, putting it all back together, testing the DVD drive, and calling the owner to pick it up tomorrow.
I also stabilized the feedback in the thing, which stopped the annoying whine coming from the transformer. After trying almost every trick in the book with no success, i remembered that the datasheet of the UC3842 says you can connect a resistor from Vref to Comp to have more current flowing thru the opto's transistor. A 1k did the trick here.Last edited by Th3_uN1Qu3; 07-27-2012, 01:40 PM.Originally posted by PeteS in CARemember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.Comment
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
Nice job, as usual.
I like how there are TO-92 'giants' among all the SMTs.
I also stabilized the feedback in the thing, which stopped the annoying whine coming from the transformer. After trying almost every trick in the book with no success, i remembered that the datasheet of the UC3842 says you can connect a resistor from Vref to Comp to have more current flowing thru the opto's transistor. A 1k did the trick here.
What a funny unit- those cheapies definately have their 'personalities' and quirks, as you've found.
"Cheers,"
-PaulLast edited by kaboom; 07-27-2012, 11:25 PM."pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066All style and no substance.Originally posted by smashstuff30guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
guilty of being cheap-made!Comment
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
I brought it in the hallway and plugged the cable TV into it, and i must say, it does a pretty good job. DVD drive works fine too, tested video output via SCART and it's pristine, so my job is done here. Btw, the FM radio does NOT have RDS.
Originally posted by PeteS in CARemember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.Comment
-
Comment
-
Re: Possible bad transformer.
Rod Elliott also has more than a few really well-written articles on a great number of electronics- and audio-related topics ( http://www.sound.westhost.com/articles.htm )Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry!Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
Exclusive caps, meters and more!Hardware Insights - power supply reviews and more!Comment
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by repair-itI replaced the bulb only on my Toshiba DLP The bulb is a TB-25. This is the first time I've done a bulb only replacement. Supposedly there is a timer module that needs to be re-calibrated or reset. I don't know where the module is located. I see some vendors selling the bulb with the housing stating module included which leads me to think the module is located inside the enclosure the bulb mounts in, but I didn't see it. Maybe it's inside the plug attached to the bulb?
Anyway - I am seeking information on how to reset this so called module so that the lamp will operate. Apparently... -
by ezeniaHi,
I have a LUMIMAN Smart Bulb that suddenly stopped lighting one day. The bulb is still detected in the app, but won't light. I've probed around and nothing seems to look off with any of the diodes, caps or resistors. The Bluetooth/Wi-Fi module seems to be working as it's still detected in the app. I even tried deleting and re-pairing the bulb (it didn't light, but I was still able to follow the pairing instructions), it re-paired fine, but still no light.
In diode mode, the LEDs all light up when probed so I'm guessing this means the LEDs themselves are OK. I was expecting... -
by Wolf1977hi
in a welding machine i had a mosfet and four components wich connect with it burned
i ordered all the damaged components and replace it but when i put the device on the plug all the components burned again i had tested before and i had not shunts
i dont understand whats happen wrong
more particular on the schematic q11p01 mosfet q11p02 tranzistor
three paralel resistors had burned q11p07 zener shunt q11p08 open
when i changed all these shunts q11po7 mosfet and tranzistors
maby the transformer has problem on your opinion or something on...08-19-2023, 01:27 PM -
by sam_sam_samI have had these 70 watt high pressure sodium yard lights for many years now probably at least 15 years or more and there is a protection diode that after several years starts to go bad and when it does this it has momentarily shutting down the light and then a few minutes later it starts working again
This about the forth time I have fixed this one and you can tell if it the diode or not if it lights up and it only shuts down when the air conditioner turns on then it is the diode
If it cycling on and off constantly then it is the bulb itself that is the issue
... -
by mikey5791Hi all,
Got this local made DC power supply (12/14V) given free as the transformer has melted. There is no marking or indication to identify what type or rating of transformer used.
Fyi,. I had a busted autogate mainboard with transformer with marking 13-0-13 . Is this the 13v dc type transformer?
My questions are
1. How do i test to see if the transformer is in good working condition?
2. Can this transformer (marking 13-0-13) be used to replace the melted transformer on the DC power supply?
Hope you guys understand what i was asking. My intention is... - Loading...
- No more items.
Comment