Glad to hear it worked. Funny thing is I replied to this thread last on 3/20/12 it's 3/20/13 today.
@Shovenose, Read back a few posts by me you'll be caught right up.
Well I thought it was OK but when I hooked up a motherboard I got nothing out of it? Checked the fuse its good, so I'm a little stumped right now.......
I did notice that goop on the pins under one of the Coils(its a big round thing with wired wound around the big round thing) lol, and under its base there is a tone of that goop where the pins go through to the mainboard?
When I had it hooked up to my motherboard and nothing happened I disconnected it fast as I didn't wanna see it go boom, but nothing happened.........
On a side note, I need a pigtail 15A 250V fuse couldnt find one at digikey? I'm not sure why but that site hates me, could someone post a link for the fuse?
By goop you mean some glue? If it is soem of the yellow stuff, I'd clean it, it often burns to be conductive, if it's the white silicone or hot glue, it should be OK.
Is the board OK? May be board burned, triggering PSU's short protection. I have also seen several boards with burned startup circuits, shortening green pin with wire externally made them work normally.
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
By goop you mean some glue? If it is soem of the yellow stuff, I'd clean it, it often burns to be conductive, if it's the white silicone or hot glue, it should be OK.
Is the board OK? May be board burned, triggering PSU's short protection. I have also seen several boards with burned startup circuits, shortening green pin with wire externally made them work normally.
Its white, has it all over and no signs of yellowing. No it wont do anything, I tried to short the green wire with the ground to see, checked the fuse with a MM and it has continuity so I know its good.
I'm just a lil miffed as what to try from here............
The reset button on the back of the PSU lights up, and it will shut off if I switch it. But that's as far as it goes? Totally open to suggestions, I started to open it back up but I have other projects going on. Another PSU which is brand new and burnt and a Z77 thunderbolt, I posted it here too. https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=27685
Thanks Behemot!!!!!!
Please keep the ideals commin!
Do you have digital multimeter with diode tester? Can you verify output rectifiers are not blown up with that (while having PSU disconnected from power for a while)? Just put it between ground and every voltage rail and see if it beeps, and when it does, what values it shows.
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
Do you have digital multimeter with diode tester? Can you verify output rectifiers are not blown up with that (while having PSU disconnected from power for a while)? Just put it between ground and every voltage rail and see if it beeps, and when it does, what values it shows.
Sure,
just not sure what the outut rectifier's look like? So the rails, you mean going to the cables that feed the board right?
Looks like the transformer has a '00 date code, lol.
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Sure,
just not sure what the outut rectifier's look like? So the rails, you mean going to the cables that feed the board right?
Yup, thats what he means. All the grounds go to the same place, so you can use any ground (molex usually works best as most multimeter leads fit quite well inside the pins) and then probe the different rails. It looks like your power supply follows standard conventions pretty well, and 3.3V is orange, 5V is red and 12V is yellow.
Yup, thats what he means. All the grounds go to the same place, so you can use any ground (molex usually works best as most multimeter leads fit quite well inside the pins) and then probe the different rails. It looks like your power supply follows standard conventions pretty well, and 3.3V is orange, 5V is red and 12V is yellow.
Thank you 370forlife!
I'll post up tomorrow,
Do you have digital multimeter with diode tester? Can you verify output rectifiers are not blown up with that (while having PSU disconnected from power for a while)? Just put it between ground and every voltage rail and see if it beeps, and when it does, what values it shows.
OK but what setting(on the multimeter)do I use to measure the Value?
THANKS GUYS!
Sorry for not posting back sooner just been busy with life
After checking for voltage on all output leads with your meter, now set it to "low ohms" or "continuity."
Clip the black lead of your meter to the case of the PS. Now, take the red lead, and probe the red, orange and yellow leads from the PS. If any rectifiers are shorted, you'll get a beep or unusually low measurement. Be aware, a reading of several tens to several hundreds of ohms may just be load resistors or part of the feedback divider to the error amp(s).
Make sure you use the resistance range, not diode check!
Diode check sets up a current source in the meter, while measuring the voltage across the test leads (device under test). If you were checking diodes or transistors, the reading would be the "junction drop." However, you are looking for -shorted- diodes. For bad rectifiers, a simpler/less confusing test is more foolproof...
I've never had shorted diodes that didn't show up on a cont check. I did have a few leaky shottkeys that gave different junction drops on diode check, but had to remove them. You cannot measure this in ckt because of the transformer secondary. Incidentally, this is why you can quickly check for shorted rectifiers without even opening the PS up. A shorted diode will "complete" the circuit from the output and red meter lead, through the TX secondary, to GND/common, back to the black meter lead.
"pokemon go... to hell!"
EOL it...
Originally posted by shango066
All style and no substance.
Originally posted by smashstuff30
guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty! guilty of being cheap-made!
OK,
I checked for continuity across the leads orange and red give a short beep that goes to open, and the yellow gives a perm. continuity? Does that check out OK?
On low ohms test(red) starts like 2.2 and goes to zero. Yellow, starts at 2.8 goes to zero and orange, 2.8 and goes to zero. Is this good? Using a radio snack MM I can break out my fluke wanna be?
There's usually little difference between +3,3 and +5 V if it uses magamp which seems to be the case. It tends to show low value under such circuimstances, if it is 5-6+, it is OK. However, if +12 V is open, than it may indicate blown rectifier.
Less jewellery, more gold into electrotech industry! Half of the computer problems is caused by bad contacts
OK,
I checked for continuity across the leads orange and red give a short beep that goes to open, and the yellow gives a perm. continuity? Does that check out OK?
So something is wrong with the +12. You're just charging up the filter caps with your meter on +3.3 and +5.
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