I just pulled a smoking Dark Knight Titanium (550W) power supply. It has 5 very bad caps which I think I could replace. However, looking at it closely, one of the circular copper-covered coils is heavily burnt at the point where it is soldered to the pcb. After pulling the pcb off the damage is local to the coil where the copper goes to the pcb, that area is definitely burnt but looks mostly superficial. Looking at the soldering quality from the underside is really scary. It looks like whoever did it had a giant squirt-gun of solder and just laid it on there. And then there's a jumper wire that got thrown on there for some reason. Any advice? Maybe I should just dump it? It got replaced with an Antec 430 which is barely better.
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
This?
http://www.geeks.com/largePic_All.as...550-A-unit.jpg
...that "fan grill" looks very familiar...
http://www.dyminsystems.com/mmDYMIN/...r%20supply.JPG
aka Powmax
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
Yes powmax. Throw it away. No use in recapping it is a terrible psu no matter what. The antec is a decent power supply. Might as well just recap that unit.
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
Yup, that's the culprit. So I should just toss it into the trash,huh?This?
http://www.geeks.com/largePic_All.as...550-A-unit.jpg
...that "fan grill" looks very familiar...
http://www.dyminsystems.com/mmDYMIN/...r%20supply.JPG
aka PowmaxComment
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
Take us a picture first, I'd like to see the guts of one of 'em.
Also, there is a possibility you could save the case for another PSU's guts, swap out cables and connectors (even make a motherboard extension cable for bench testing), salvage the heatsinks, and definately scavenge the fans. Just pull the little sticker off the backs of them, put some sewing machine oil in there and they should be good as new.Comment
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
Ya know, I got other pc power guts strewn all over, plus I'm working on a Dell USFF machine. This is just what I need to fiddle with. Does anyone make a decent kit for replacing the guts of one of these things? Here's some shots; on the pic with the obvious bad caps, there is a coil colored black. The problem area isn't very visible but its just at the base of the part. Anyhoo, you're right, I can salvage the 'sinks and the fans, the other stuff looks no good so I need something to stuff into there....BTW, check out the top notch soldering, I think my 7 year old kid could do a better job. Sorry about the mediocre pix, they came off my 'droid. If y'all want more pix, sing out before I hose this stinker away.Attached FilesComment
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
Which model Antec did you replace it with? SmartPower, TruePower, Earthwatts, or Basiq 430w?Comment
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
Basiq 430, it was inexpensive. I don't say cheap because I got it retail rather than online as there was a time requirement. It wasn't the cheapest unit but wasn't the most expensive in the class either.Comment
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
Powmax... Maximum Pow.
First time i see a burnt filtering toroid in the secondary. Canicon capacitors, small board, garbage soldering... lovely. Keep the fan, heatsinks, transformers and primary capacitors. Throw away everything else.
A working TV? How boring!Originally posted by PeteS in CAComment
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
That would be the second time I have seen a cooked filter on a secondary and those yellow caps on the primary look like Fuckyoos to me... those are the only primary caps I have ever seen to vent and blow.
Definately junk.Comment
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
@Evil Lurker: I've seen a Panasonic primary capacitor bulge in an Antec TruePower... (I replaced it with another one)Comment
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Re: Anyone familiar with Dark Knight?
I have one similar in a box somewhere. Has a big 12cm fan and an 8cm fan battling to cool not much.Comment
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Hello Everyone,
This is my first post so I will try to be as precise as possible without making this post too long winded. Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the original problem but I included images of the TV internals.
I have a Sharp 70LE660U. The problem started a few months ago with the bottom row looking out of sync and was dark on the left side and then fading to transparent on the right side. Shortly after, a dark cloud appeared in the center of the screen. The dark cloud started small and shaded but the image was visible. It also affected the menu area.... -
Hi guys
This Zotac GTX 260 had a high side MOFET on one Vcore VRM phase short circuit Drain to Gate (Not short Drain to Source)
This has burnt out the drive IC L3E (ADP3110A) and also an SOT-23 device very close to the driver IC. According to the PCB markings 'Dxxx' this is likely to be a diode.
Basically the VRM has 4 phases, two powered from one 6 way connector and two powered from the other 6 way
I would assume each pair of phases are basically identical, the burnt out phase has SOT-23 devices WW1 plus the burnt one.
The good phase... -
Was watching this set, and suddenly it went dark. Picture is still visible, just very dark. Tried checking all settings, adjusting brightness to 100% no change. Reset through menus, no change.
bought used boards from ebay (power and input boards) replaced with same results, changing brightness does seem to have a slight affect.. but not to normal visibility of picture.
I'm handy, fixed TVs before.. I can't see any issues with boards... hoping someone can point me in the right direction to properly diagnose. I don't believe the LEDs are caput, since the picture is on and equal... -
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Hi it looks like everything works don't know where to test except the 390v in the 2 capacitor in the hot side of the power supply and the weird 180v in the diodes in the cold side that should be discharged it is writin on the circuit no more you can read what is written on the circuit quite srrange color mixiing yellow and white
anyhow i couldn't t read anything else
the backlight is on strong and the screen does not get dark or very dark but no pictures
the mainborad feels a bit hott on the black part i test it to 52 degree's against 34 to 40 on the rest of it
...
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