NM-C511 not posting after BIOS update

[questore]

Hi everyone,
Someone come to me after his lenovo has made a BIOS update and after never posting.
Board is:
NM-C511 rev 1.0
ideapad_s145-15api (Type 81UT)
S/N: PF1WZ2L8

After full removing AC and battery and cmos battery and pressing power button for 30sec the laptop turns on and every LED and power rail comes fine,
CPU is very mildly warming up but reaction to buttons and no display.
Tryed to reflash bios suggested on this forum but nothing changed.
Tryed to reprogram the EC with vertyanov programmer but the following happens.
If I plug in original charger, then the EC programming softver shows : "wrong EC ID" (ID: FFFF)
If i plug in a LAb power adapter with no middle pin then EC gets a valid ID for a second then if again never communicates foth EC ID FFFF
What could be the problem? Is it the EC?

[questore]

After reprogramming the EC and replacing the BIOS to orginal type 1.8V and reprogrammed it with the original BIOS i have found inside the wrong 3V IC the laptop booted and POSTED fine.
Thanks for all the help!

[m1ch43lzm]

Hi, did you try with different BIOS?

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...10#post3577810

Try the BIOS from post #10
Are you using a clip? Or desoldering the bios? Sometimes when using a clip you may get errors when programming/verifying depending on cable length

After first power on, you should wait around 2-3 minutes to get an image
Also try without RAM installed, if it has onboard ram)

Schematics / board view : https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...view-schematic

[mcplslg123]

AFAIK, this mb dont use AD_ID. So it should show same behaviour in dc supply and adapter.

[questore]

AFAIK, this mb dont use AD_ID. So it should show same behaviour in dc supply and adapter.

Correct, but it acts differently, nevertheless EC cannot be read somehow.

[questore]

Hi, did you try with different BIOS?

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...10#post3577810

Try the BIOS from post #10
Are you using a clip? Or desoldering the bios? Sometimes when using a clip you may get errors when programming/verifying depending on cable length

After first power on, you should wait around 2-3 minutes to get an image
Also try without RAM installed, if it has onboard ram)

Schematics / board view : https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...view-schematic

Thanks you for the típus.
Im using clip, but verifilying always after write. Never has any problem with clips.
I Will try to wait 2 minutes after flash but since power consumpson stays exactly 0.620 I have stopper. Alsó tryed with onboard rám only but same

[SMDFlea]

Tryed to reprogram the EC with vertyanov programmer but the following happens.
If I plug in original charger, then the EC programming softver shows : "wrong EC ID" (ID: FFFF)

Use the original charger, press the power button once, then connect the programmer.

[questore]

Use the original charger, press the power button once, then connect the programmer.

No change.
Still very stange that two original charger is saying EC ID is wrong when connecting and power supply with the same connector is answering at first correctly.
Of course i have checked the power voltage and the two chargers connector is good.

Also what I have noticed that when I plug any charger the BIOS pin 8 has 1.8V even when the laptop is off.
could this mean that the EC firmware is corrupted?

[mcplslg123]

Very likely yes.

[questore]

I just had a very strange matrix feeling.
A NM-D711 come to me with a very very similar problem. its EC only answers once when I plug it in and never more. it also has BIOS 3.3v on pin #8 even when it is not turned on.
If I order a new IC what are the chance that I will be able to programm it if its empty?

[m1ch43lzm]

Also what I have noticed that when I plug any charger the BIOS pin 8 has 1.8V even when the laptop is off.

This looks normal according to the schematics, on your board BIOS chip is powered from +1.8VALW, that is, always on, see attached picture from page 3 of the schematics
The EC is powered from both +3VALW and +3VS (S0, aka power on), maybe you need both enabled to program EC?

My guess it's a timing issue when programming EC, maybe you can try in this order:
I don't have an EC programmer, but maybe this helps
1. With board unplugged from AC adapter, connect your programmer, make sure GND from your programmer is properly connected to target board
2. Select motherboard, EC type, etc. in your software
3. Press read button on the software
4. plug in AC adapter
5. Press power button once (maybe it also works with "Novo" button)?

If successful, repeat the above steps to write EC firmware

Or, from post #9 on here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...66#post1585966

Re: Question about replacing IT8586e IO .

are you using vertyanov? there is one way for this programmer to read kbc (ite) properly. just plug in the mainboard immediately after clicking the check connection button.

The other way is if you desolder the EC and program it externally

its EC only answers once when I plug it in and never more. it also has BIOS 3.3v on pin #8 even when it is not turned on.
If I order a new IC what are the chance that I will be able to programm it if its empty?

See above, the BIOS likely is also powered from an always on 3.3v line

A new/blank EC, likely you can program fine, or program externally before soldering to the motherboard

I also saw another post of yours when you mentioned electrical interference, maybe you can try installing your programmer in another PC? (preferably a laptop running on battery power, to rule out a possible grounding issue) Sometimes those electrical faults cause random issues

[mcplslg123]

Most of the lenovo mb's will program ITE ec on 1st boot on its own as long as EC is blank.

[questore]

Most of the lenovo mb's will program ITE ec on 1st boot on its own as long as EC is blank.

Thanks, in the end case I will try it.

[questore]

This looks normal according to the schematics, on your board BIOS chip is powered from +1.8VALW, that is, always on, see attached picture from page 3 of the schematics
The EC is powered from both +3VALW and +3VS (S0, aka power on), maybe you need both enabled to program EC?

My guess it's a timing issue when programming EC, maybe you can try in this order:
I don't have an EC programmer, but maybe this helps
1. With board unplugged from AC adapter, connect your programmer, make sure GND from your programmer is properly connected to target board
2. Select motherboard, EC type, etc. in your software
3. Press read button on the software
4. plug in AC adapter
5. Press power button once (maybe it also works with "Novo" button)?

If successful, repeat the above steps to write EC firmware

Or, from post #9 on here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...66#post1585966


The other way is if you desolder the EC and program it externally


See above, the BIOS likely is also powered from an always on 3.3v line

A new/blank EC, likely you can program fine, or program externally before soldering to the motherboard

I also saw another post of yours when you mentioned electrical interference, maybe you can try installing your programmer in another PC? (preferably a laptop running on battery power, to rule out a possible grounding issue) Sometimes those electrical faults cause random issues

Hmmm might be a good idea to not check the connection but to directly read the EC at first time.
Number 5 on the list is not an option in here since power button is in the keyboard and I'm using keyboard connector to flash but on other modells might be good idea thank you.

[questore]

This looks normal according to the schematics, on your board BIOS chip is powered from +1.8VALW, that is, always on, see attached picture from page 3 of the schematics
The EC is powered from both +3VALW and +3VS (S0, aka power on), maybe you need both enabled to program EC?

My guess it's a timing issue when programming EC, maybe you can try in this order:
I don't have an EC programmer, but maybe this helps
1. With board unplugged from AC adapter, connect your programmer, make sure GND from your programmer is properly connected to target board
2. Select motherboard, EC type, etc. in your software
3. Press read button on the software
4. plug in AC adapter
5. Press power button once (maybe it also works with "Novo" button)?

If successful, repeat the above steps to write EC firmware

Or, from post #9 on here: https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...66#post1585966


The other way is if you desolder the EC and program it externally


See above, the BIOS likely is also powered from an always on 3.3v line

A new/blank EC, likely you can program fine, or program externally before soldering to the motherboard

I also saw another post of yours when you mentioned electrical interference, maybe you can try installing your programmer in another PC? (preferably a laptop running on battery power, to rule out a possible grounding issue) Sometimes those electrical faults cause random issues

Tryed your suggestion to read right the first time when pluggin charger and the reading progress bar was very slow but gone till the end, the full reading was empty "FF"
Either something was erased the EC and it cannot be reprogrammed anymore or it is dead.
Also tryed to write with the sam method but since it erases before write, it never got to writing since after erase it lost contact.
Also strange that whenever i got a EC ID that seems corrupt: 8CFF rev -> FF

I think it time to order a new EC

[questore]

New EC arrived.
Replaced and before fist try I have tryed to read EC with vertyanov. "Wrong EC ID"
Then I have installed a new BIOS tested by users "nmc511BUCN33WW OK"
Laptop starts as soon as I plug in the charger. There is fanspin and caps lock is instantly on but no POST and not reacting to Power button at all.
taking 400mA and then swithes down to 270 and stays there.
Every 20 second I hear a click.

I have found that BIOS pin #8 has only 1.0V (+1.8VALW) hmmm why so low when nothing getting significantly hot on the board??

[questore]

+1.8VALW has 9kohm resistance to ground
Applying 1.8V from LAB PSU taking 0.004 Amps so no real high power consumpton on there.

is my LDO 1.8 PU1901 generator failed, or should i suspect something else and remove PJ1906 to see if 1.8 is there on the beginning?

[Sephir0th]

What about the +1.8VS ?

[m1ch43lzm]

+1.8VALW has 9kohm resistance to ground
Applying 1.8V from LAB PSU taking 0.004 Amps so no real high power consumpton on there.

is my LDO 1.8 PU1901 generator failed, or should i suspect something else and remove PJ1906 to see if 1.8 is there on the beginning?

PU1901 is a custom "Lenovo" LV5028 PMIC that does several voltages in one chip, it does the voltages for DDR4 (1.2V, 2.5V, 0.6V) and 1.8VALW, 0.9VS, 0.9VALW
PJ1906 is actually the input to the internal 0.9V LDO, so this chip creates the +1.8VALW, then feeds it back to itself (via PJ1906) to create the +0.9VALW LDO out, at PJ1907
The actual +1.8VALW out is at PJ1904, pin 8 of the BIOS should have continuity to PJ1904

What about the +1.8VS ?

According to the schematics it's switched from 1.8VALW via Q39

[questore]

PU1901 is a custom "Lenovo" LV5028 PMIC that does several voltages in one chip, it does the voltages for DDR4 (1.2V, 2.5V, 0.6V) and 1.8VALW, 0.9VS, 0.9VALW
PJ1906 is actually the input to the internal 0.9V LDO, so this chip creates the +1.8VALW, then feeds it back to itself (via PJ1906) to create the +0.9VALW LDO out, at PJ1907
The actual +1.8VALW out is at PJ1904, pin 8 of the BIOS should have continuity to PJ1904


According to the schematics it's switched from 1.8VALW via Q39

Thank you for correcting, I wanted to write PJ1904

[questore]

Jesus what have I found. Check this guys:
After i have found a loose pin on the new SIO soldering I have checked again and now 1.0v risen to 1.3V.
Laptop starts with error code 1-3 ( 0002h: Internal bus error )
at least it reacts to power button press now. I can even turn it off by pressing long on the button.
Rechecked every pin for loose connection and bridges but found nothing else wrong.
After this I desoldered the BIOS chip and thats when it hit me. It was a 3v BIOS chip on the 1.8V rail.
So i have made a phone call on the repair shop that made a BIOS update and they confirmed that they removed the BIOS to program.
It was a rookie mistake of me not checking BIOS type. Original should be 25Q64FWSIG and this is a 25Q64FVSIG
Conclusion is that they soldered back a wrong BIOS (no matter what reason) that is why the laptop was not coming on the first place.
Checked and EC_ALW_ON is not even there. So 1.3v is coming from somwhere else.

Question: Should I try to resolder the previos SIO and solder a 1.8V BIOS or do you think that 1.8v beeng low is another problem?