Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Motor control board repair

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • sam_sam_sam
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Let us know if you were able to fix this board issue or not

    Leave a comment:


  • cyclones
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Well, I found the problem causing no -15V. It's the connector. It's not making good contact, but I'm sure I accidentally bent that pin when I was originally trying to measure transformer output voltages. So I'll have to either fix that or replace the connector. I've seen this type before so I assume I can find one.

    So now I guess I power it up on 120V with attention to that connector and see what I get.

    Leave a comment:


  • R_J
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    That proves the bridge rectifier and the rest of the -15v circuit is ok. The fault is then with either the transformer not supplying the a/c to the bridge or there is a break (or small fuse) between the transformer and the bridge rectifier.

    I hope the transformer was NOT connected when you applied the 20 volts to the bridge? if it was that may have opened the winding on the transformer as the winding would be a very low resistance to the 20vdc.
    Last edited by R_J; 11-17-2021, 06:48 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • cyclones
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Originally posted by cyclones View Post
    I tried it in the machine with everything connected and the -15V was missing.
    I just connected my DC power supply to the middle pins of SR3 (where the AC is supposed to go) and supplied 20 volts and the -15V rail comes up.

    Leave a comment:


  • cyclones
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Originally posted by R_J View Post
    I suspect you have the -15 volts, It was only missing because the main transformer was not being used.
    I tried it in the machine with everything connected and the -15V was missing.

    Leave a comment:


  • R_J
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    I suspect you have the -15 volts, It was only missing because the main transformer was not being used.

    Leave a comment:


  • cyclones
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Originally posted by R_J View Post
    It should be ok, but you could also just check the resistance like I said. The transformer winding should connect directly to the ~~ connections on the bridge rectifier.
    Yes, it does. I measured half an ohm (0.5 ohms) resistance on the traces. The letters and numbers on the apparent BR are LBA 63.

    Leave a comment:


  • R_J
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Originally posted by cyclones View Post
    Is it going to be safe to power up the board with 120VAC? That's about 10% higher than the 107V at the machine. I assume any voltage regulators should be able to handle that but just wanted to check first since I've not dealt with something that is expecting 107V.
    It should be ok, but you could also just check the resistance like I said. The transformer winding should connect directly to the ~~ connections on the bridge rectifier.

    Leave a comment:


  • sam_sam_sam
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    If this machine has a step down transformer that supply’s power to this board look and see if it says 110 volt or not because if does do you know if your facility has a hot leg if it does then you might have the transformer on the wrong set of legs because if the step down transformer says 110 to 120 volts output

    Because I has this happen to me one time and when I switch the legs to a certain way I got the correct voltage however do not change the machine main power supply legs unless you do NOT have any other motors on this machine because your rotation might be wrong
    Last edited by sam_sam_sam; 11-12-2021, 10:43 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • cyclones
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Originally posted by R_J View Post
    Are you getting a/c voltage to SR3? It is likely a bridge rectifier, why it is labeled SR3, who knows.
    If you are not getting any a/c to the bridge, check the resistance of the traces and the power supply winding that supplies that circuit.
    What is the part number on SR3?
    Is it going to be safe to power up the board with 120VAC? That's about 10% higher than the 107V at the machine. I assume any voltage regulators should be able to handle that but just wanted to check first since I've not dealt with something that is expecting 107V.

    Leave a comment:


  • R_J
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Originally posted by cyclones View Post
    It looks like the -15V goes back to SR3 and the voltage regulator that doesn't get warm, AVR2. From looking at the trace lines and from the meter, it seems like the AVR2 is in parallel. SR3 has a + and - and two middle pins that go to the AC input, so it seems like a rectifier bridge, but I don't know what the SR3 designation could mean. Any ideas?
    Are you getting a/c voltage to SR3? It is likely a bridge rectifier, why it is labeled SR3, who knows.
    If you are not getting any a/c to the bridge, check the resistance of the traces and the power supply winding that supplies that circuit.
    What is the part number on SR3?

    Leave a comment:


  • eccerr0r
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Black square thing with four pins on the corners, a hole in the center, and a notch cut from one corner is a bridge rectifier. Can't see the designator, need more pictures from different angles so we can tell what you're talking about.

    Have to say it's highly irregular to have AVR1 and AVR2 in parallel, then again they being identical parts? What are the part numbers? Why does AVR1 look like it peeled from the heatsink?

    --

    oh...so avr1 and avr2 are not parallel as the G pins are not connected, so one of them is being used strangely for bipolar supplies?

    Still a mystery what part numbers they are and how they're connected to the rest of the board...
    Last edited by eccerr0r; 11-12-2021, 12:36 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • cyclones
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Originally posted by R_J View Post
    107vac is likely that they have 3 phase power supplying the building and they use one phase to supply the board, this is normal.
    Locate the source for the -15v, trace the -15volt point back, the ac for this circuit is likely supplied from the transformer and then through a diode or bridge to give a negative voltage.
    It looks like the -15V goes back to SR3 and the voltage regulator that doesn't get warm, AVR2. From looking at the trace lines and from the meter, it seems like the AVR2 is in parallel. SR3 has a + and - and two middle pins that go to the AC input, so it seems like a rectifier bridge, but I don't know what the SR3 designation could mean. Any ideas?

    Leave a comment:


  • R_J
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    107vac is likely that they have 3 phase power supplying the building and they use one phase to supply the board, this is normal.
    Locate the source for the -15v, trace the -15volt point back, the ac for this circuit is likely supplied from the transformer and then through a diode or bridge to give a negative voltage.

    Leave a comment:


  • cyclones
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    Originally posted by R_J View Post
    When you checked for the missing -15 volts, was that using the main transformer with 120vac applied or was it when you used your 24vdc bench power supply?
    That was with the power supply. I finally got a chance to try the board in the machine and the input voltage was 107VAC.. not sure why it's 107V because that is just outside the typical 110-120VAC. Either way, in that case the -15V was also missing, and I was still getting about +1V on that rail, so my first task will be to get that figured out and repaired.

    Leave a comment:


  • R_J
    replied
    Re: Motor control board repair

    When you checked for the missing -15 volts, was that using the main transformer with 120vac applied or was it when you used your 24vdc bench power supply?

    Leave a comment:


  • cyclones
    replied
    Re: Motor control board

    I applied 120vac to the primary and here's I measured with green as ground:

    grey one is 10V
    blue one is 40V
    purple is 2.25V
    yellow is 5V
    orange is .5V

    Leave a comment:


  • CapLeaker
    replied
    Re: Motor control board

    Originally posted by redwire View Post
    Either the -15V rail has wimped out and collapsed, or something is overloading the -15V regulator. It's not good for IC's and semi's power if a -ve rail goes +ve. I would put a reverse diode from each of the two rails to GND, to keep working on this.

    The two VREG's look like on the main board two big heatsinks, the IC's are TOP-3 packaged, one says G/IN/OUT.
    The second board has a bunch of dual diodes and transistors, I don't see a voltage regulator in the line up.
    Another possibility is the +15v is shorted with the -15v rail somewhere.

    Leave a comment:


  • cyclones
    replied
    Re: Motor control board

    I'm going to check the linear input transformer by disconnecting it from the board and applying 120VAC to the primary windings and see what all the outputs are. If everything looks good there, I'll connect up the board to 120VAC through an isolation transformer and see what happens. Got to get the supply voltages worked out first before checking anything else.

    I've gotten more information about the problem. The outputs for one motor work, but not for the other motor. The maintenance guy switched the non-working motor to the contacts for the working motor and the motor worked, so it's probably something in the output, although it might be a problem on the input side too.

    Leave a comment:


  • eccerr0r
    replied
    Re: Motor control board

    photo of the tracks on the back side of the board? does not seem right that two apparently "GND" ports are not grounded/tied together - unless the company was playing tricks with virtual grounds and using the same BOM device for both rails... Or the silkscreen is wrong and the chips on the heatsink are different, still don't know what they are...

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X