Joe24
Senior Member
Last Activity: 04-19-2025, 10:10 PM
Joined: 06-15-2021
Location: Flat.
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No point. Dead GPU like every other 30-series. Just walk away.... -
Awesome, figured it out! Special thanks to [USER="362240"]Joe24[/USER] , you've been a huge help! 🙄Joe24Awesome, figured it out! Special thanks to [USER="362240"]Joe24[/USER] , you've been a huge help! 🙄Leave a comment:
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Based on the connections to the optoisolators, it appears that the 3 pins for data are GND, TX, RX. (Not Vdd/Vss/Data like the fictional interwebs would have you believe.) So, UART is looking likely.Leave a comment:
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As mentioned, I don't have the dryer, don't have the motor, and don't have the other boards. Will get them eventually (maybe), if and when the guy gets around to it.
[B][U]The core question here is: does anybody have experience with Maytag/Kenmore/Whirlpool bus codes, or know of a repair / hardware-hacking website where this sort of thing is explored?[/U][/B]
If I can command this board to turn the motor on, then I can see what (if anything) is going on. The problem may not even be on this board, it could be on main control board, etc.As mentioned, I don't have the dryer,Leave a comment:
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Maytag Whirlpool Kenmore clothes dryer data bus
Patient is a Maytag/Whirlpool/Kenmore clothes dryer. Not sure of exact model, doesn't matter. All boards are out of production.
Specific problem is a Maytag 8544799 / WP8544799 motor-control board, aka Diehl Controls 708879-05. Customer states the board "doesn't work, motor doesn't run". Not sure how the repairman made that assessment, or if it's even accurate. He can't get replacement boards, and the owner decided to buy a new dryer, so whether this board is the problem is speculation on his part. Again, doesn't matter.
I've been over the board looking for... -
Hey if board repair is within your capabilities, then go for it. Any card that's had abuse on this level (chunks missing) is likely to have other issues, and I wouldn't take it on unless bored or well-remunerated - and I've never been bored.
I'm just a bit surprised that someone experienced in repairing multi-layer circuit boards is unable to find commonly-available service data . . . and fires the parts cannon without determining the card's problem first. Personally, I prefer a more systematic and measured approach.
Thanks for the offer of pictures, but I have no emotional...Last edited by Joe24; 12-07-2023, 06:50 PM. -
@TrailandError:
Appears to be the same or very similar board as MSI MS-V371. According to V371 boardview, which can probably be found somewhere in this thread, component is #C4382 (pin 1 = USBC_VBUS, pin 2 = GND), 0.1µF capacitor, 0402 size. Pin 1 is on the right in your picture, pin 2 is on the left.
I doubt replacing this cap is going to solve anything though, unless the USB-C port was causing you trouble. Should function without it, although maybe a bit unstable.
I'm looking at that chunk missing out of the board right next to your component of interest,...Last edited by Joe24; 12-06-2023, 06:31 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: 2070 Super with crazy power consumption numbers
Turned out to be a firmware issue. Evidently this is an early version of the board v1.0C, and it requires an obscure firmware version to make it work which is not one of the "official" firmware versions. This resulted in the GPU mis-parsing the string of voltage/power consumption measurements from the 45491. All good now.
P.S., With the proper firmware, the bottom DP jack came to life too. It was dead but I hadn't got around to looking at it yet.Last edited by Joe24; 02-15-2023, 11:45 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: 2070 Super with crazy power consumption numbers
GPU power reading is exceeding board power reading. And memory should not be 3W. Common sense fail....Leave a comment:
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2070 Super with crazy power consumption numbers
Have a Gigabyte 2070 Super with some bonkers power draw readings. Card runs fine, other than some GPU throttling because of the power numbers. But GPU power always reads too high, more than the power reading for the entire card. And VRAM power always reads way too low, along with PCIe and 6-pin power readings. The 8-pin reading seems plausible.
Typical readout while running 720p Furmark, 8x AA:
GPU clock: 1590 MHz
Mem clock: 1750 MHz
GPU temp: 58.8 °C
Hot spot: 71.8 °C
Fan speed: 33% / 1000 rpm
Mem used: 454 MB
GPU load: 97%
...Last edited by Joe24; 02-03-2023, 02:20 AM. -
Re: Graphics card Schematics and Boardviews
Same question here. Anyone have schematic and/or boardview for Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super Gaming OC 3X GV-N207SGAMINGOC-8GD? I have for 2070 and 2080, but both of them have USB-C, while the 2070 Super has an extra DP port instead . . . and guess which port on this card needs some reconstructive surgery! There are also some other minor differences. I could probably figure it out by comparing the other DP ports, but much faster to use actual factory data.
EDIT: Found it. This boardview for GV-N207SWF3OC-8GD appears...Last edited by Joe24; 02-02-2023, 12:14 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Genius Ultramatic R2-T3 remote,Need help identifying component
Now I've got a bunch of reading to do! Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I hate not knowing how things work. Where's bigclive to do a complete circuit analysis when you need 'im, lol.
Yes, the red LED threw me at first too. You would expect it to come on when you press buttons, right? Wrong, it only comes on when the battery is low. It's just connected to a divider net and a Darlington array (circled in blue on the board pic above; bottom SOT is a diode, top 3 are NPN BJTs).
...Last edited by Joe24; 07-13-2022, 10:55 PM.Leave a comment:
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Genius Ultramatic R2-T3 remote,Need help identifying component
This is out of a wireless (RF) remote for one of those power lift beds for seniors. Remote says "The Genius Ultramatic" on it, and is model #R2-T3 (03-680252-03), FCC ID: MG8-R2-T. Standard Motorola MC145026P encoder, which is functioning.
I'm told the unit doesn't work. I don't have the bed that goes with it, so maybe it's the remote that's the problem, and maybe it isn't . . .
Haven't actually found anything that's NOT working in it yet. Don't have a receiver, so can't verify that it's actually transmitting anything. However, when I hold the device near unshielded...
Last edited by Joe24; 07-13-2022, 01:50 PM. -
Re: BGA reballing techniques and equipment
@somes2121: You mean for reballing, or for installing the GPU? Don't think there really is a "proper" profile that matters for reballing. You're just heating things up until the solder balls melt into place, and no more. Don't use higher temperatures than you need, or for longer than you need to.
As far as installation goes, that's a bit more involved if you want a reliable result. Nvidia's/AMD's factory spec will be locked in a dark vault somewhere. Doesn't matter, the idea is the same for all reflow soldering....Last edited by Joe24; 04-01-2022, 01:27 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: BGA reballing techniques and equipment
That's the DIRECT-heating method, different stencils than what's shown in the pictures above. The stencils shown are the INDIRECT type, and are not designed to have heat applied to them at all.
How do you think the chip gets installed on the board after reballing??? By "heating the entire chip & it's core from top & bottom," that's how. Don't worry yourself about heating the GPU when reballing, perfectly acceptable. Any BGA chip is tough enough to take normal soldering temperature...Last edited by Joe24; 03-23-2022, 05:59 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: BGA reballing techniques and equipment
This is a really good tip for direct-heat stencils. I usually like to do about 5 balls on each opposite corner though. If there was only one ball on each corner, you're at high risk of ripping a pad off the chip if you bump the stencil.
Clean Q-tip works good too. If you get any flux on the fibers and solder balls start sticking to the Q-tip, chuck it and get a fresh one....Last edited by Joe24; 03-19-2022, 02:20 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: BGA reballing techniques and equipment
Yes, but as I said, in my experience doing anything BIGGER than small GPUs like GP106/GP104 (37mm x 37mm) is an issue with direct heat stencils. I've done TU104 with direct heat stencils before, but it was dicey.
Nobody has trouble with warping when reballing a little GDDR6 etc. memory chip, because they're tiny. But the bigger the stencil, the more warpage you inevitably have. And I have some bigger TU102 GPUs to do (2080 Ti, which are 48mm x 48mm). Which is why I'm trying to get indirect stencils figured out,...Last edited by Joe24; 03-19-2022, 02:22 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: BGA reballing techniques and equipment
Tried using the indirect stencil on GP106 followed by heating in my bench oven. Still using Amtech 559. Better results than with hot air, but still needed to fix 30-50 balls (including the ones I had to remove and replace in order to clear the bridges; I take a needle nose tweezers and squeegee the bridge towards the nearest open area in the grid, which can nuke another half dozen balls if they're in the road).
You can see after stenciling where the solder balls are starting to wander around already. I baked the chip and jig...Leave a comment:
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Re: BGA reballing techniques and equipment
Adding missing solder balls is easy. It's not so easy to clean up merged solder balls without nuking the rest.Leave a comment:
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