i have a 1.1v and i am having issues with faint wavy lines on the screen that i am trying to make perfect so it will be my main xbox.. also have some 1.0v's that are doing it but to a lesser degree. i really don't want to do a full board recap, especially don't want to have to replace those smds, so i want to find which specific caps that filter the video signal. i have already replaced several caps and messed up one of them that caused a dead short(has been repaired). so i really don't want to just do all the caps. plus, those 1.1v boards have a lot of them. i'd really like to just focus on the problem caps. and yes, i have given a visual inspection and replace the 5 in front of the processors with poly caps.
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I've been mapping out the original Xbox cap circuits too—finding a full schematic is tough. If anyone has high-res scans or diagrams,that could really help the community troubleshoot more accurately.Comment
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look around the video encoder near the connector
there are some smd caps there.
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@bulkchart32: Are you using the same video cable for all of your XBOXs?
I had a Monster brand cable years ago that had bad internal grounding/shielding and it caused wavy interference lines on all XBOXs it was connected to. There was no issue with any of my XBOX consoles. It was the bad cable. The cable was fixed by soldering the internal braided shield (rather than the loose crimp that was installed from manufacturer).
I've owned or serviced over 100 original XBOX consoles over the years and in my experience I have never had to repair a video output circuit for this issue due to capacitors. Bad video cable shielding, missing cable shielding, no cable shielding (really cheap no-name cable), damaged cable shielding strands (at the connector where it flexes the most), corrosion on cable pins, bad or missing grounds, broken solder connections, or running a video cable near the AC power cable (where it can pick up interference) are all more likely.
I'm not saying bad caps in video output circuit are not a possibility, but I would try a different cable before re-capping anything.Last edited by Unspun01; 05-22-2025, 09:24 AM.Comment
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I've never heard of that xedusa+ connector but found info at this link:
https://www.beharbros.com/product-page/xedusa-plus
That page specifically states to check the VRM capacitors near the CPU:
QUOTE:
"As these consoles are older than 20 years, their VRM and Power Supply related capacitors are aged and leaked most of the time. So they should be replaced with the equivalent ones urgently in order to function without any issues. If you experience glitches, noises or diagonal lines on the video, it's a consequence of this problem. "
Depending on the motherboard version these are 1500uF/16V or 3300uF/6.3V.
As I mentioned before, I've not seen bad caps near video encoder IC, and would focus on the VRM caps near CPU. That being said, I haven't used the xedusa+ cable, but it could have crimped ground/shield cable instead of soldered ground/shield so you might want to pop open the connector and look under the hood. Should be easy to do with a couple of bobby-pins or thin screwdrivers. I've done many and they come apart without damaging them.Comment
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i also don't have the problem at all with my xbox2hdmi adapter. and my 1.6v xbox works fine with xedusa.Comment
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a quick question for unspun01 :
have you ever had to replace the SVC chip on original xbox?
i have fully recapped main board and eliminated psu with working original
and checked the print for corrosion caused by leaking clock cap ect
box will start up fine when the SMC ic is frozen with freezer spray
but otherwise it just wont start i would value your opinion thanksComment
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@jimbofz:
Since you have an SMC IC, I assume you have a v1.0-v1.4 xbox?
I have not had to replace an SMC IC on the original xbox. They are very reliable. I did have problems with the xyclops IC on a v1.6 (which is essentially the same as an SMC on v1.0-v1.4) but it was physical damage, not something actually burned out on the Xyclops IC.
If freeze spray works, I might suspect an intermittent cold-solder connection. Does the SMC IC get hot or abnormally warm when you have the problem trying to turn the XBOX on? These ICs run cool. Not really a demanding processor so shouldn't get hot. Also, the SMC is a PIC microcontroller. As such, it depends on a clock signal from a crystal. There is a crystal right next to SMC. Maybe the freeze spray makes the clock crystal stabilize and it's not really the SMC IC at all? If you have an oscilloscope, try probing the clock crystal and see if you get a stable clock frequency that does not bounce around.
Do you get the green flubber screen at startup? if yes, does the flubber partially load with video and sound and then just stutters or hangs up? Or is your xbox totally dead? any lights or fans spinning?Comment
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@bulkchart32: regarding opening up the console end of the AV connector, the outer shell is a somewhat pliable rubber. The inner metal part of the connector has four small raised tabs (two on top and two on bottom) that fit into 4 small recesses on the inner side of the rubber part of the connector when it is slid overtop. The rubber part is not glued to the metal part. Sliding a THIN AND WIDE metal or plastic tool on both the top and bottom between the rubber and the metal will allow enough separation to pull the two parts gently apart. See the diagram below:
_._____._
/ =======\
|_._____._|
the 4 dots represent the 4 tab locations. Insert a spudger tool, or two butter knives, or some cut pieces of old gift cards, or a few flat toothpicks on each side of the top/bottom, etc in between the metal and the rubber on top and bottom. small screwdrivers will work too, but some people get excited and use them too much as a pry tool and end up damaging their connectors so I don't recommend them. You don't need much force at all. Really just using the tool to provide some separation space and then gently pull apart with your fingers.
See the pics for the 4 tabs it will give you an idea how much separation you will need, or how far to insert your choice of tool. The wires are well encased, so you won't risk damaging them unless you are very aggressive with it.
Those are not my pictures, credit to a forum on ogxbox.com
Good luck,Attached FilesComment
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Hello!
I'm looking at an original Xbox PSU: Foxlink ftps-0002 rev. B. The 12 V output is too low, and the 5 V output is too (?) high. Unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope but only a DMM for diagnosis.
Measured voltages with no load:
After rectifier diodes
12V: 6.17 V
5V: 5.67 V
Secondary transformer pins AC measurement (really don't know if this says anything)
12V: 2-2.5 V
5V: 1.04 V
I also have another (working) Xbox psu from Delta. The same measures there, in order, being: 10.79,... -
We have a XBOX 1914 controller that has shorted the 3V3 to J2 (aerial connector). If you unplug the aerial, the controller boots and connects. It seems stable without the aerial plugged in but it is not ideal.
The schematic is on https://www.acidmods.com/RDC/XB1/Sch...OME_VALUES.pdf
I have little to no understanding of these RF transmitters and so I am unsure what has failed. Currently, T2 is short on Pins 1 to 2 and RFF2 is also short on Pins 1 to 2. This is how the 3V3 is getting connected to J2, clearly one or both of these components are faulty.... -
Hi there, I have an Xbox One original in which I have all the 1.8v, 3.3v and 5.0v standby power rails present, however my 12v rail is not turning on and the enable signal PSU_V12P0_EN from the SMC to turn the power supply on is missing. There is high resistance on this line so it's not shorted directly to ground which leaves me with not many options.
Was looking at a schematic and see the enable is created by the SMC. I have 3.3v on SMC_RST_N_IN but I'm a little stuck on where to look next. Is it likely that the SMC has gone bad or am I missing something else (it's my first time with... -
nichiconare what i used because i had heard the voltage doesn't matter as long as it is more than the original cap. i'm now reading that high voltage may make the cap's esr too high. is this a good cap for replacing those oem ones?1500 µF 16 V Aluminum - Polymer Capacitors Radial, Can 8mOhm 2000 Hrs @ 105°C -
Hey there friends!
I have an original Xbox power supply, model FTPS-0002, that isn't showing any signs of life. I have never really done power supply repairs before but I'm eager to learn so I am hoping someone can help me diagnose this.
The issue is that I get no 3.3VSR standby voltage which in turn leads to no 5v or 12v. A couple things I have noticed in my initial inspection.
Resistor 25 and 29 are both reading OL, Capacitor 17 and 20 seem to be leaking as seen in the photos.
So far I have confirmed that 240v, main fuse and the 400v cap is...
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