I have a 65" Vizio TV model D65U-D2 with a motherboard that looks similar to yours with the large black heat sink. Mine turns on and works, but sometimes suffers multiple reboots until it stays on successfully. Also sometimes has random menu lockups and video/glitches. Is this a BGA problem, or EEPROM failure? I wonder if we have similar issue?

When my TV works the video is very nice. Many times I can get TV to lock up when trying to change inputs. Weird issue....

Great find on the ESD diode packs. I haven't seen these fail in this way, usually you can tell if one of the paths is "open" across the IC. I see these are commonly used in HDMI input circuits also (located on the traces near HDMI port). If you can't find exact replacements, I suggest seeing if you can locate any from scrap TV mainboards, or definitely on old XBOX One motherboards that are cheap and easy to find just about anywhere.

I don't know if the ratings are same, but might be helpful to try....

If the solarization on your panel is the same with your original TCON and also your new TCON, I would suspect the panel, or the LVDS cable (from TCON to Mainboard), or the mainboard itself.

LVDS problem could be 1) bad or damaged cable itself, or 2) not properly inserted at one end or the other, or 3) oxidation or dirty pins at either end male of female connectors.

If you had nice clear image on your screen before replacing your mainboard, your panel is probably ok. It is possible you damaged the LVDS cable in your repair. Check that.

Also, Are you absolutely...

I have repaired a few Hisense "no bezel" LED TVs. These are definitely a real pain to work on. I charge extra for repairing these since they are so much extra work.

To remove the double-sided sticky tape, I use a sharp box cutter (X-acto) blade and gently cut by moving blade back and forth. This minimizes small debris by not totally disintegrating the foam into smaller pieces. Do not use too long of a blade since you do not want to scratch the delicate LCD panel on the inside.

Once LCD and frame are separated, the factory adhesive rolls off the panel and frame...

@bulkchart32: regarding opening up the console end of the AV connector, the outer shell is a somewhat pliable rubber. The inner metal part of the connector has four small raised tabs (two on top and two on bottom) that fit into 4 small recesses on the inner side of the rubber part of the connector when it is slid overtop. The rubber part is not glued to the metal part. Sliding a THIN AND WIDE metal or plastic tool on both the top and bottom between the rubber and the metal will allow enough separation to pull the two parts gently apart. See the diagram below:

_._____._
/ =======\...

@jimbofz:

Since you have an SMC IC, I assume you have a v1.0-v1.4 xbox?

I have not had to replace an SMC IC on the original xbox. They are very reliable. I did have problems with the xyclops IC on a v1.6 (which is essentially the same as an SMC on v1.0-v1.4) but it was physical damage, not something actually burned out on the Xyclops IC.

If freeze spray works, I might suspect an intermittent cold-solder connection. Does the SMC IC get hot or abnormally warm when you have the problem trying to turn the XBOX on? These ICs run cool. Not really a demanding processor...