User Profile

Collapse

Profile Sidebar

Collapse
Unspun01
Unspun01
Badcaps Veteran
Last Activity: 02-13-2026, 11:51 AM
Joined: 06-28-2011
Location: Manitoba
  •  
  • Time
  • Show
  • Source
Clear All
new posts

  • Hi - I also have a PS5 EDM-010 with no power or lights, and only a single beep when power button is pressed. I believe I have measured shorts on some of the capacitors near each RAM chip. I can't remember if all measure shorts, or only half of them. I'm curious to follow your troubleshooting and see what solution you discover. I have not connected to uART so I do not have an error code to share.

    On another note, the 3 beeps you mention on the other console seems to be related to NOR corruption. If the HDMI is replaceable, that might be the easier console to fix by repairing/rebuilding...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Random vertical lines with no discernible repeating pattern are indicative of panel problem. An identifiable "repeating" pattern of vertical lines or blocks or colors can be due to a TCON or mainboard with a shorted address line and can be repaired.

    In your case, I suspect the panel-to-buffer-board flex ribbon cables which possibly have COF (chip-on-flex) ICs. The ICs can fail and appear like your image.

    Specifically on your TV, the localized nature of all lines in one area tells me one ribbon cable or the IC that drives the lines on that ribbon is damaged....
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by Unspun01; 08-12-2025, 09:28 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • I had an LG 50" TV with similar issue a few years ago. Top 25% was perfect, and lower 75% had intermittent perfect image with horizontal tearing every second or so.

    I disconnected the LHS and RHS lower panel buffer boards independently from the TCON during testing but cannot recall the result. I was ready to toss the TV due to a panel problem when I discovered the scotch tape fix which works by masking some of the clock lines on the ribbon cables between the TCON board and the panel buffer boards.

    My TV was fixed. with clear scotch tape. It had very similar display...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • The 3-wire battery management system uses B+ and B- with a common wire. Perhaps you only need to disconnect the common wire. If you mean to accomplish this with a relay, I think disconnecting the common wire when 5V not applied is simple to try....
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Hi -
    The nexus connector replacement needs the affected motherboard to be completely removed from the xbox. This required near complete disassembly of the xbox boards from each other and from the aluminum frrame(make note of where all the screws go since there are a few different kinds and lengths).

    Kapton tape is useful in certain repairs, but will not be useful here. to protect nearby plastic connectors on topside near nexus connector, I recommend 2 layers of common aluminum foil. Cut and bend it to fit closely around the connectors but NOT TOUCHING the connectors. the two...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Was this TV outside or in a wet/damp environment? There is lots of rust on the metal shielding near the hdmi ports. I would inspect the mainboard for any signs of water damage or corrosion....
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • @gabri2211:

    If you did not connect the 12V two-pole connector between the power supply and the motherboard, then the XBOX would not turn on for sure. The power supply provided 12V, 5V, 3.3V as well as ps-on signals, etc. Other voltages are generated on the motherboard from the 12V, 5V or 3.3V.

    Without the 2-pole connector attached, you won't really damage anything but If the 12V is missing, so are the lower voltages generated from that 12V power rail.

    Many times, the flex ribbon cable is also damaged when the nexus connector is damaged and I do not recommend...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Besides removing the USB daughterboard, Microsoft likely made many small changes between v1.0 to v1.1. I cannot confirm, but If that capacitor position is unpopulated, it is likely intentional and leaving it out is not a problem.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • If your nexus connector is damaged, remove the flex ribbon cable from the connector and try inserting a disc into the drive. The XBOX will turn on automatically. Then you can pair or use a USB connected controller as normal. If a disc is already in the drive, use an unfolded paper clip or other small diameter rigid wire/item to manually eject the disc through the small hole on the side of the disc drive and re-insert the disc and try again.

    If the XBOX is otherwise working condition, this will turn on the XBOX.

    I had an XBOX series X with a damaged nexus connector on...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by Unspun01; 07-30-2025, 02:18 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • I have a 65" Vizio TV model D65U-D2 with a motherboard that looks similar to yours with the large black heat sink. Mine turns on and works, but sometimes suffers multiple reboots until it stays on successfully. Also sometimes has random menu lockups and video/glitches. Is this a BGA problem, or EEPROM failure? I wonder if we have similar issue?

    When my TV works the video is very nice. Many times I can get TV to lock up when trying to change inputs. Weird issue....
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • Great find on the ESD diode packs. I haven't seen these fail in this way, usually you can tell if one of the paths is "open" across the IC. I see these are commonly used in HDMI input circuits also (located on the traces near HDMI port). If you can't find exact replacements, I suggest seeing if you can locate any from scrap TV mainboards, or definitely on old XBOX One motherboards that are cheap and easy to find just about anywhere.

    I don't know if the ratings are same, but might be helpful to try....
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by Unspun01; 07-25-2025, 09:26 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • If the solarization on your panel is the same with your original TCON and also your new TCON, I would suspect the panel, or the LVDS cable (from TCON to Mainboard), or the mainboard itself.

    LVDS problem could be 1) bad or damaged cable itself, or 2) not properly inserted at one end or the other, or 3) oxidation or dirty pins at either end male of female connectors.

    If you had nice clear image on your screen before replacing your mainboard, your panel is probably ok. It is possible you damaged the LVDS cable in your repair. Check that.

    Also, Are you absolutely...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • I have repaired a few Hisense "no bezel" LED TVs. These are definitely a real pain to work on. I charge extra for repairing these since they are so much extra work.

    To remove the double-sided sticky tape, I use a sharp box cutter (X-acto) blade and gently cut by moving blade back and forth. This minimizes small debris by not totally disintegrating the foam into smaller pieces. Do not use too long of a blade since you do not want to scratch the delicate LCD panel on the inside.

    Once LCD and frame are separated, the factory adhesive rolls off the panel and frame...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • @bulkchart32: regarding opening up the console end of the AV connector, the outer shell is a somewhat pliable rubber. The inner metal part of the connector has four small raised tabs (two on top and two on bottom) that fit into 4 small recesses on the inner side of the rubber part of the connector when it is slid overtop. The rubber part is not glued to the metal part. Sliding a THIN AND WIDE metal or plastic tool on both the top and bottom between the rubber and the metal will allow enough separation to pull the two parts gently apart. See the diagram below:

    _._____._
    / =======\...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • @jimbofz:

    Since you have an SMC IC, I assume you have a v1.0-v1.4 xbox?

    I have not had to replace an SMC IC on the original xbox. They are very reliable. I did have problems with the xyclops IC on a v1.6 (which is essentially the same as an SMC on v1.0-v1.4) but it was physical damage, not something actually burned out on the Xyclops IC.

    If freeze spray works, I might suspect an intermittent cold-solder connection. Does the SMC IC get hot or abnormally warm when you have the problem trying to turn the XBOX on? These ICs run cool. Not really a demanding processor...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • I advise caution in applying too much heat. Some boards will delaminate if heat is not applied responsibly. This will destroy the board if it a multi-layer board

    Do not use excessive heat unless you have no other option.
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • While I would normally pre-heat from beneath and apply hot-air from top, this approach is likely to damage the delicate FPC connectors.

    On the other hand, I have de-soldered such a BGA chip with nearby delicate plastic connectors by applying hot air directly from underneath the board with lots of flux on the BGA from above. I would try 400C hot air wand as-is without any nozzles. Using nozzles will only limit the amount of air and heat and you will need to spend much more time trying to de-solder.

    This technique is also useful to replace individual LEDs on LCD/LED TV...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by Unspun01; 05-27-2025, 02:41 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • I've never heard of that xedusa+ connector but found info at this link:

    https://www.beharbros.com/product-page/xedusa-plus

    That page specifically states to check the VRM capacitors near the CPU:

    QUOTE:
    "As these consoles are older than 20 years, their VRM and Power Supply related capacitors are aged and leaked most of the time. So they should be replaced with the equivalent ones urgently in order to function without any issues. If you experience glitches, noises or diagonal lines on the video, it's a consequence of this problem. "
    ...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • @dbuergi: Inspect the soldering on the 1.8v line. The trace damage in your photo shows missing solder mask and it is easy to accidentally solder across the trace to the nearby traces.

    Also, why so much melting damage to nearby plastic components? did you use a heat gun? There is a lot of melting to some of the white plastic connectors where flex ribbons go, and your reset button switch is destroyed.

    A heat gun could also melt the plastic internals of the joystick so it will never work properly.

    These joysticks have orange pots. Are you sure these are hall...
    See more | Go to post

    Leave a comment:


  • @bulkchart32: Are you using the same video cable for all of your XBOXs?

    I had a Monster brand cable years ago that had bad internal grounding/shielding and it caused wavy interference lines on all XBOXs it was connected to. There was no issue with any of my XBOX consoles. It was the bad cable. The cable was fixed by soldering the internal braided shield (rather than the loose crimp that was installed from manufacturer).

    I've owned or serviced over 100 original XBOX consoles over the years and in my experience I have never had to repair a video output circuit for this...
    See more | Go to post
    Last edited by Unspun01; 05-22-2025, 09:24 AM.

    Leave a comment:

No activity results to display
Show More
Working...