While I would normally pre-heat from beneath and apply hot-air from top, this approach is likely to damage the delicate FPC connectors.
On the other hand, I have de-soldered such a BGA chip with nearby delicate plastic connectors by applying hot air directly from underneath the board with lots of flux on the BGA from above. I would try 400C hot air wand as-is without any nozzles. Using nozzles will only limit the amount of air and heat and you will need to spend much more time trying to de-solder.
This technique is also useful to replace individual LEDs on LCD/LED TV...
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I've never heard of that xedusa+ connector but found info at this link:
[url]https://www.beharbros.com/product-page/xedusa-plus[/url]
That page specifically states to check the VRM capacitors near the CPU:
QUOTE:
"As these consoles are older than 20 years, their VRM and Power Supply related capacitors are aged and leaked most of the time. So they should be replaced with the equivalent ones urgently in order to function without any issues. If you experience glitches, noises or diagonal lines on the video, it's a consequence of this problem. "...
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@dbuergi: Inspect the soldering on the 1.8v line. The trace damage in your photo shows missing solder mask and it is easy to accidentally solder across the trace to the nearby traces.
Also, why so much melting damage to nearby plastic components? did you use a heat gun? There is a lot of melting to some of the white plastic connectors where flex ribbons go, and your reset button switch is destroyed.
A heat gun could also melt the plastic internals of the joystick so it will never work properly.
These joysticks have orange pots. Are you sure these are hall...
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@bulkchart32: Are you using the same video cable for all of your XBOXs?
I had a Monster brand cable years ago that had bad internal grounding/shielding and it caused wavy interference lines on all XBOXs it was connected to. There was no issue with any of my XBOX consoles. It was the bad cable. The cable was fixed by soldering the internal braided shield (rather than the loose crimp that was installed from manufacturer).
I've owned or serviced over 100 original XBOX consoles over the years and in my experience I have never had to repair a video output circuit for this...Last edited by Unspun01; 05-22-2025, 09:24 AM.
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@dbuergi: You mentioned that you unsoldered and resoldered the stick. Did you replace the entire joystick with X and Y potentiometers or just one potentiometer?
Do you have a different potentiometer to swap into the problematic one?
Or perhaps you can swap the potentiometer/sensor between the X and Y axes on the same joystick to see if the problem moves from X to Y or Y to X etc.
Swapping the potentiometer or hall effect sensor locations can help determine if the problem is with the joystick pot itself, or the location it is installed into. Then you can see...
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@CapLeaker: Backlight failure is largely independent of eMMC quality and more related to bad user interface (UI) design. If you cannot set the intensity of the backlight, or there is no setting to adjust, then many people will never know about it or use it.
Regarding your use of a home theater PC (HTPC), this speaks directly to using a dedicated input (HDMI or PC-VGA, etc.) rather than Smart TV home screen or Smart TV apps.
Most likely with your Samsung, you are able to reduce backlight setting for your specific input and extend the life of your TV backlight. Samsung...
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Double check that you did not damage any of the traces to/from the hall effect potentiometer. Usually there is 4 pins: Vcc, ground, 2x poles. If one of these traces is damaged, or not making connection then the calibration will not be correct. See attached image. It is for PS3 but gets the point across.
Not sure if this applies to your controller since I can't remember what is inside PS5 controller, but maybe will give you some hints. Also, double-check that the replacement hall effect sensor is identical to the original one. There can be some differences between OEM ones and aftermarket...
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@KYBOSH: Well, for your next trick, you can buy a replacement COF (chip on flex) cable and learn about re-attaching such a cable to the panel using anisotropic conductive film/tape, and conventional resoldering to the panel buffer strip (if needed).
If that COF flex cable is not damaged, you might only need to re-attach to panel using that anisotropic tape.
I once repaired a TV for a customer who yanked on their COF flex cable during "cleaning". But in their case, the flex cable was still attached to the LCD panel itself, and the damage was to the flex ribbon...
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I have a few comments on using the smart TV built-in apps versus using external devices as inputs:
I have had a few smart TVs over the years that allow you to individually or globally set the backlight and video parameters for each input, including smart apps or smart TV home screen.
Most TV brands have LED backlight set to max out-of-the-box. This is so the picture looks bright and vibrant, but it overdrives the LEDs and they can fail prematurely.
On EVERY brand of TV, I always set the backlight (not the brightness) down below 50% to extend life of LED backlights....Last edited by Unspun01; 05-12-2025, 02:47 PM.
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Before we get too far into the weeds with this TV, Does the TV reboot completely? or does the TV continue to operate WITH SOUND but a black screen?
And please be clear: When your TV stops working properly, is the screen black and completely without backlights? or is the screen black with no image but backlights are actually on? Your original post does not say.
The fact that you posted a screenshot of the self-check screen indicates your problem may not be a backlight. This may be a mainboard problem where TV mainboard works until it craps out.
If TV still...Last edited by Unspun01; 04-09-2025, 09:15 AM.
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@sli4: Great that replacing the capacitor worked for you also. And thanks for reporting back with your update. Hope this thread helps others. Take care!
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I do not know if the original poster has solved this problem, but I had an old NES with a power problem years ago. I remember replacing a large capacitor on the mainboard near the AC input. I don't think it was bulged or visibly bad, but was not within spec. It's connected to the bridge rectifier. Test it with a capacitor tester or replace with a new one. Let us know how it goes.
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@MaxumElite: Can you confirm that you had the exact same problem as original poster? He stated that his power supply had orange LED and would turn off as soon as plugged into xbox console. The failure of your high voltage 500V mosfet is a high-side problem and I would think you didn't get any LEDs on the power supply (orange or white) at all? This issue is independent of the failing low side capacitors. Just looking for more info. Thanks....
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Nominal voltage of most lithium-ion or li-po batteries is 3.6-3.7V, so you would definitely need a voltage larger than that to charge your batteries. Almost every lithium ion rechargeable device we use, which charges from a regular USB cable uses 5V to charge a 3.6-3.7V battery. I think you are correct that the voltage is too low.
I suspect there is more corrosion that you have not seen or located. Go over all affected areas with good magnifying lens. Use isopropyl alcohol. Use 99%, not 70% grade or 50% grade because those lesser percentage ones have too mush water in them to be useful....
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I have a Gamecube that doesn't read discs. Are bad caps as highlighted in your photos actually a cause for DVD-ROM drive not reading discs? I've never heard of this.
I was suspecting a bad laser but if bad capacitors can lead to not reading discs in a Gamecube, I'm happy to have learned something new today.
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Hi. I read this entire thread, and I need to ask - Besides reading the NOR, and flashing contents back to the NOR, is anyone actually writing all ZEROS (00) or all ONES (FF) to the NOR to see if their actual NOR chip is actually good? Many people using this thread seem to be downloading NOR dumps, or reading/patching and writing to their NOR chips without seeing if the actual chip is working properly.
Some of the posts on here even say they read the NOR, and re-programmed the NOR with the same .BIN file and it seemed to work. This tells me the NOR chip might be dodgy, and may lead...
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Re: Monster Power HTS 5100 MKII Power Center
Check R27 also. Looks like 220 ohm red red brown. Looks stressed.
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Re: XBOX One Power Brick Repair
@Leeroy89: I think those 2 mosfets are same, and operate in push-pull configuration. If you can read the one at left side, then I think you can find datasheet and replacement for the one on the right. In my power supply, I could not sourse exact replacement, so I replaced both as matched pair with new MOSFETS of equal or better ratings. If I recall, they are low voltage, high amperage MOSFETs and I may have ended up pulling some off an old P4 PC motherboard.
Usually power supply won't do anything if those transistors are shorted, so if...
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Re: Monster Power HTS 5100 MKII Power Center
Check your soldering on the burnt trace repairs. Some of those re-soldered connections look a little close for me from the photos. Also, check ALL diodes for shorts. Not sure what happened, but any silicon rectifiers may have experienced over-voltage and may be shorted even if they don't look bad. Also, check the heat sink mounted ICs for shorts between pins in any combination. Sometimes if it is a diode, pins 1-3 are same and may measure 0 ohms which is ok. Check pins 1-2 and 2-3. One is a 7805 5V regulator and should not have shorts...
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Re: Samsung 245BW Not Powering Up
Check the white capacitor next to bridge rectifier with markings 2J 684J 460S (in the photo posted by BudM) - I think this cap fails internally and you may notice a small almost imperceptible bulge on one side if it is failed. 460V. I think I replaced this failed cap on similar designed power supplied from DongYang power supplies.
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