Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

[CleanSC]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

I can't answer your first questions yet as I am at work.

But I can answer the rest.

If another pic from this board is correct (from member Tonnes, click to view), the voltages work like so:

1=5v
2=12v
3=19v

CNS1 goes to the logic card. It's labeled as having 5v and 12v as seen on the board.

The inverter connects via CNS2 and has no labels regarding voltage. It obviously gets 19v, but unsure about the others.

Will get back to you on with the other questions later today.

Thanks, PB!

[CleanSC]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

...gets it's collector current through J6, which SEEMS to be attached to pin 1 of IC2. I sketched it in on the first attached drawing, please verify.

Confirmed.

[PlainBill]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Confirmed.

Well, at this point I am certain the next step is to replace the TEA1532A (IC2). You should have verified Q4 is not shorted. The SMPS controller is the next suspect.

PlainBill

[CleanSC]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

I hope everyone had a great holiday weekend and PB, hope you enjoyed the fireworks with your new eyes!

Q4 is not shorted. It measures in the megaohms thru all pin combos.

I looked up on Digikey and this is what I think is the correct replacement for the TEA1532A:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=568-2337-1-ND

Please review that and verify I am ordering the right part. How many should I get? Should I order other potential bad parts while I am here?

I will not have any fun trying to solder that chip in. Think a standard pencil iron is sufficient or will I need something more specializes?

Thanks, fellas!

[retiredcaps]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

I like this how to solder SMD/small chips video ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY

I will not have any fun trying to solder that chip in. Think a standard pencil iron is sufficient or will I need something more specializes?

[CleanSC]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Excellent video!

Looks like I have some tools to buy, which I am never opposed to.

I'm eyeballing the Hakko 936 with an assortment of tips. That should do nicely. I've been needing a nice soldering station for quite some time anyway.

[PlainBill]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

I hope everyone had a great holiday weekend and PB, hope you enjoyed the fireworks with your new eyes!

Q4 is not shorted. It measures in the megaohms thru all pin combos.

I looked up on Digikey and this is what I think is the correct replacement for the TEA1532A:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=568-2337-1-ND

Please review that and verify I am ordering the right part. How many should I get? Should I order other potential bad parts while I am here?

I will not have any fun trying to solder that chip in. Think a standard pencil iron is sufficient or will I need something more specializes?

Thanks, fellas!

That is the correct part. Buy a couple, they are cheap. I can't think of any other potential bad parts to buy.

PlainBill

[CleanSC]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Update: Been out of town for several weeks so I had to put this project on a small hold while I collected parts, new tools and supplies.

But....!

SUCCESS!! Nearly 3 months of chasing it down and PB got it!!

IC2 was replaced with a new unit and now we have a live 5v line! The monitor is working great, in fact I am typing this post with it. I had to buy the Hakko station seen above (what a sweet unit, I should have bought one of these YEARS ago). I removed the chip with the Chip Quik SMD Rework Solder/Desolder that stays molten long enough to remove a chip. Worked like a charm, just as shown in the vid.

Why it blew? Who knows. All bigger caps on the board have also been replaced so they should not be a problem in the future. Hopefully the PSU stays good for the long haul. Tonight I will give it a good several hours on to test it out.

PB, I owe ya a cigar.

I got my monitor back, I missed it a lot. The new 23" '09 Sammy was nice but there's just something about this LCD. It's an oldie but a goodie. Owners of these know what I mean.

To all that helped, thanks so much. This board is great and full of knowledgeable guys very generous with their wisdom.

[PlainBill]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Update: Been out of town for several weeks so I had to put this project on a small hold while I collected parts, new tools and supplies.

But....!

SUCCESS!! Nearly 3 months of chasing it down and PB got it!!

IC2 was replaced with a new unit and now we have a live 5v line! The monitor is working great, in fact I am typing this post with it. I had to buy the Hakko station seen above (what a sweet unit, I should have bought one of these YEARS ago). I removed the chip with the Chip Quik SMD Rework Solder/Desolder that stays molten long enough to remove a chip. Worked like a charm, just as shown in the vid.

Why it blew? Who knows. All bigger caps on the board have also been replaced so they should not be a problem in the future. Hopefully the PSU stays good for the long haul. Tonight I will give it a good several hours on to test it out.

PB, I owe ya a cigar.

I got my monitor back, I missed it a lot. The new 23" '09 Sammy was nice but there's just something about this LCD. It's an oldie but a goodie. Owners of these know what I mean.

To all that helped, thanks so much. This board is great and full of knowledgeable guys very generous with their wisdom.

Thanks for the thought, but years ago my wife explained in GRAPHIC DETAIL just what cigar smoke does to her ardor. I have no desire to repeat the experience nor replace her.

PlainBill

[JustRob]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

SUCCESS!! Nearly 3 months of chasing it down and PB got it!!

IC2 was replaced with a new unit and now we have a live 5v line! The monitor is working great, in fact I am typing this post with it. I had to buy the Hakko station seen above (what a sweet unit, I should have bought one of these YEARS ago). I removed the chip with the Chip Quik SMD Rework Solder/Desolder that stays molten long enough to remove a chip. Worked like a charm, just as shown in the vid.

CleanSC: I have just the opposite problem, 5V present but no 12V. I saw in one of the posts here that it was proposed that the 5V rail is first to have power, then the logic board turns the 12V rail on. Is that right? I have no 12V rail, and when I power on the monitor, the green LED quickly goes out (~50-100ms).

I also accidentally posted in the wrong thread asking you for a blowup of the speaker wires (broke off at the connector).

Thanks,
-Rob

[Kridian]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Grrr, is there any place else to get that TEA1532AT chip? Digi-Key has it marked as 'obsolete' now. Not sure why NXP Semiconductors has pulled the chip from retailers?

[jetadm123]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Grrr, is there any place else to get that TEA1532AT chip? Digi-Key has it marked as 'obsolete' now. Not sure why NXP Semiconductors has pulled the chip from retailers?

Available through ebay or futureelectronics.com

[Kridian]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Thanks. Ebay might be the only way to get it as it looks like futureelectronics.com's stock has gone to zero.

I have never desoldered an IC, should I get that ChipQuick alloy or can you do it conventionally?

[jetadm123]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

What I normally do is take a small sharp pair of wire cutters and cut through each leg of the device. After removing the main chip, take your soldering iron and heat up each leg and remove it with a small pair of pliers. If you don't feel comfortable with this, then ChipQuik is the best alternative.

[Kridian]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Well, I replaced my TEA1532A at IC2 (you know, just for the hell of it) and still get my same flash of light on the right side of the screen and then goes dark. Power button stays lit (green).

Where do I go from here? I had the bad cap problem a while ago and got this thing running again, but then recently it started getting finicky about turning on so here I am. Any help would be appreciated.

[jetadm123]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Well, I replaced my TEA1532A at IC2 (you know, just for the hell of it) and still get my same flash of light on the right side of the screen and then goes dark. Power button stays lit (green).

Where do I go from here? I had the bad cap problem a while ago and got this thing running again, but then recently it started getting finicky about turning on so here I am. Any help would be appreciated.

You can start by providing some good top/bottom photos of the entire power board. Acer is notorious for using different power supplies for the same model monitor.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

I had the bad cap problem a while ago and got this thing running again, but then recently it started getting finicky about turning on so here I am.

1) What did you use for replacement caps?
2) Did you replace all the electrolytic caps on the power board?

[Kridian]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Here we go. I noticed the fuse F1 is all white, should it be clear? Retiredcaps, I replaced CS10,CS11, CS12, CS14 & CS15 (all with Nichicons and with their respective uFs).

[retiredcaps]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

I noticed the fuse F1 is all white, should it be clear? Retiredcaps, I replaced CS10,CS11, CS12, CS14 & CS15 (all with Nichicons and with their respective uFs).

Fuses come in all shapes and sizes. A good fuse should measure less than 1.0 ohms.

Capacitors die from age, heat, and shoddy build quality. Capacitors DO NOT have to be visibly bloated in order to bad. They can be out of tolerance uF (a 1000uF measures 20uF) and/or have high ESR (ohm).

Most members here will recommend that you replace all capacitors when fixing a monitor. Your problem could be due to the other original capacitors left on the board.

[alexanna]

Re: Acer AL2423W: Recapped, Still Dead!

Here we go. I noticed the fuse F1 is all white, should it be clear? Retiredcaps, I replaced CS10,CS11, CS12, CS14 & CS15 (all with Nichicons and with their respective uFs).

need photo of the inverter
Al.