Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

The same 6 caps as in most cases (C111, C112, C113, C114, C316 and C317 - see post #267 above from darael for example) in the power supply are puffy and I'm planning on replacing them. (They are all CapXon GL series caps, and the monitor is about 3 years old.)

My only question at the moment: Is the Rubycon ZLH series O.K.

If you read posts by regular members, you will find out

1) members suggest replacing all the electrolytic capacitors except the largest one which rarely, but not never, fails.

2) Capxon has a terrible reputation for quality. Thus, if 6 Capxon caps are dead, the others can't be far behind.

3) PCBONEZ teaches people how to choose caps wrt to esr, ripple at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...8&postcount=19

4) In particular, from the above

Capxon . GL 820 uF 25V 10mm ... Ripple= 1460 mA, ESR= .043 ohms

5) Now look at the ZLH datasheet at

https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...d7b9ce5b39.pdf

you will find

Rubycon ZLH 820uf 25V 10mm ripple = 1960, ESR = 0.060 ohms

so ZLH has more ESR (.060 vs 0.43). That tells you that ZLH is not a suitable replacement.

6) If you want something that matches Capxon GL almost exactly, the Panasonic FC 820uF 25V 10mm cap has ripple = 1440, ESR = 0.045 ohms as per

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P11221-ND

7) If want more ripple and less ESR than the Capxon GL, then use Panasonic FR



Panasonic FR 820uF 25V 10mm, ripple = 2180, ESR = 0.020 ohms

[gkronome]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hello all,

This is my first post here. I found the site while searching for info on the same problem as (it seems) a lot of people: I also happen to have a faulty Samsung Syncmaster 226bw monitor. The same 6 caps as in most cases (C111, C112, C113, C114, C316 and C317 - see post #267 above from darael for example) in the power supply are puffy and I'm planning on replacing them. (They are all CapXon GL series caps, and the monitor is about 3 years old.)

My only question at the moment: Is the Rubycon ZLH series O.K. for this job? Namely: 5 x 25ZLH820MEFC10X20 for C111-112, C114, C316-317 and 1 x 25ZLH330MEFC8X11.5 for C113. The capacitance/voltage/size specs are OK, I'm wondering about the other stuff (ripple current, ESR).

Thanks in advance!

[oldgezzer]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Would like to say thanks to everyone here for the information regarding the Samsung SyncMaster 226BW replaced all the caps on the power board !
Parts purchased from Digi-Key
P11673-ND =1) 150ouf-450v 20% Snap
P10321-ND = 1) 47uf 50v 20% Radial
p11222-ND = 2) 820ouf 25v 20% Radial
P12386-ND = 1) 330uf 25v 20% Radial
P12390-ND = 2) 680uf 25v 20% Radial
replaced all the above and everything is working 100%

thanks once again

Oldgezzer

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Firstly, I'd like to thank PlainBill for their help - without it, I would be at a complete loss!

Secondly I want to thank everybody for providing others with such valuable information, and all for free!

Finally I'd like to say I got my monitor working. Being very amateur at soldering, it took me the best part of an hour to complete the process of desoldering the old capacitors, soldering the new ones on and testing. I can't deny being nervous, and expecting a blue flash as I plugged it in - when I met with silence and a blue flashing light, I was weary...so I turned the computer on, and it worked perfectly and first time round!

Those wondering if they should try this - I would tell them give it a go. There's about 10 screws to undo, 5 wires inside monitor to unplug, and that's it really. For the sake of about £12 (inc P&P), give it a go!

The parts I used from RS Components are:
Capacitor Al FR 820uF 25V 10x20 - RS Stock No. 708-3743 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7083743/
Al Electrolytic Cap 105C 25V 330uF - RS Stock No. 526-1519 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/5261519/

Once again, thank you to everybody for helping me.

Good job!!!

And thanks for the kind words. My extended family has been fighting a 24 hour stomach virus for the last week, and I REALLY needed some good news after doing my stint worshiping the porcelain goddess.

PlainBill

[darael]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Firstly, I'd like to thank PlainBill for their help - without it, I would be at a complete loss!

Secondly I want to thank everybody for providing others with such valuable information, and all for free!

Finally I'd like to say I got my monitor working. Being very amateur at soldering, it took me the best part of an hour to complete the process of desoldering the old capacitors, soldering the new ones on and testing. I can't deny being nervous, and expecting a blue flash as I plugged it in - when I met with silence and a blue flashing light, I was weary...so I turned the computer on, and it worked perfectly and first time round!

Those wondering if they should try this - I would tell them give it a go. There's about 10 screws to undo, 5 wires inside monitor to unplug, and that's it really. For the sake of about £12 (inc P&P), give it a go!

The parts I used from RS Components are:
Capacitor Al FR 820uF 25V 10x20 - RS Stock No. 708-3743 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7083743/
Al Electrolytic Cap 105C 25V 330uF - RS Stock No. 526-1519 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/5261519/

Once again, thank you to everybody for helping me.

[darael]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Thanks PlainBill, have placed my order as per your recommendations!

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I have looked at the capacitors, and all six seem to be 10mm. These are the markings:
820uF CapXon GL105c, C727, vent
330uF CapXon GL105c, P725, vent.

It seems that the following capacitors are suitable - would somebody please confirm this, before I order them?

C111, C112, C113, C114, C316:
EEUFK1E821 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium/0571290/

C113:
EEUFM1E331 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium/5261519/

For the 820, use 708-3743. You'll get a superior cap at slightly over 1/2 the unit cost.

For the 330, your choice is excellent.

PlainBill

[darael]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I have looked at the capacitors, and all six seem to be 10mm. These are the markings:
820uF CapXon GL105c, C727, vent
330uF CapXon GL105c, P725, vent.

It seems that the following capacitors are suitable - would somebody please confirm this, before I order them?

C111, C112, C113, C114, C316:
EEUFK1E821 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium/0571290/

C113:
EEUFM1E331 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium/5261519/

[darael]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Welcome to Badcaps! Perhaps someone who lives on your side of the pond will chime in, but if I recall correctly, Farnell and RS Components are suppliers in the UK.

In my opinion, the ideal capacitors would be Panasonic FM or FR series, Rubycon, Nichicon, and United Chemicon all have equivalent series and are equally reliable. It is important that replacement capacitors fit in the available space. I suggest measuring the diameters of the caps, and the maximum height available. It's embarrassing if the covers won't go on after the caps are replaced.

Using Panasonic, the 330uF, 25V can be replaced by either EEU-FR1E331, EEU-FM1E331L or EEU-FM1E331; the difference is height and diameter. The 820uF, 25V would be EEU-FM1E821L or EEU-FR1E821.

PlainBill

Thanks for replying PlainBill, much appreciated!

My reading online has led me to believe that the 820uF capacitors need to be 20x10mm (HxD) in size, and the 330uF need to be 15x10mm (HxD). The 330uF ones you listed are 8mm in diameter, but I shall look for 10mm ones.

http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeuf...tt=EEU-FR1E821 - this is one of your 820uF recommendations, and it seems to fit the bill.

I will remove the PCB later on, and see what size those capacitors are.

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

My first post on these forums is to request help from more experienced users of these forums!

I have a Samsung 226BW - looking at my pictures, the power board's model number is: IP-43130A. In a little seperate box underneath, it says 226BW-VE REV0.0, 2007.04.18.

I am experiencing flickering problems when turning the monitor on, and it's getting worse by the day! I have taken the monitor apart, and found six capacitors slightly bulging at the top. The bulging capacitors are: C111, C112, C113, C114, C316 and C317. C113 is a 330uF 25v 105c, and the others are 820uF 25v 105c.

That's about as much as I understand up to here. I'm not super with my 35w soldering iron, but I could probably manage these capacitors. How can I ensure they are all drained, especially that big C105, to ensure no nasty zaps? Is leaving the monitor unplugged at the mains for a day enough?

Which UK based websites will stock these capacitors at cheap prices? i'm happy to pay a pennies extra for quality capacitors, if it means they will last. What make and model capacitors should I get - the different specs of the capacitors is beyond me! If the rules allow, please link.

Welcome to Badcaps! Perhaps someone who lives on your side of the pond will chime in, but if I recall correctly, Farnell and RS Components are suppliers in the UK.

In my opinion, the ideal capacitors would be Panasonic FM or FR series, Rubycon, Nichicon, and United Chemicon all have equivalent series and are equally reliable. It is important that replacement capacitors fit in the available space. I suggest measuring the diameters of the caps, and the maximum height available. It's embarrassing if the covers won't go on after the caps are replaced.

Using Panasonic, the 330uF, 25V can be replaced by either EEU-FR1E331, EEU-FM1E331L or EEU-FM1E331; the difference is height and diameter. The 820uF, 25V would be EEU-FM1E821L or EEU-FR1E821.

PlainBill

[darael]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

My first post on these forums is to request help from more experienced users of these forums!

I have a Samsung 226BW - looking at my pictures, the power board's model number is: IP-43130A. In a little seperate box underneath, it says 226BW-VE REV0.0, 2007.04.18.

I am experiencing flickering problems when turning the monitor on, and it's getting worse by the day! I have taken the monitor apart, and found six capacitors slightly bulging at the top. The bulging capacitors are: C111, C112, C113, C114, C316 and C317. C113 is a 330uF 25v 105c, and the others are 820uF 25v 105c.

That's about as much as I understand up to here. I'm not super with my 35w soldering iron, but I could probably manage these capacitors. How can I ensure they are all drained, especially that big C105, to ensure no nasty zaps? Is leaving the monitor unplugged at the mains for a day enough?

Which UK based websites will stock these capacitors at cheap prices? i'm happy to pay a pennies extra for quality capacitors, if it means they will last. What make and model capacitors should I get - the different specs of the capacitors is beyond me! If the rules allow, please link.

[nima158]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Here are the pictures I have taken:

Note that, it's very hard to see the lines on camera, and it's much easier to see them in person.

This first one shows a paint window with a solid grey fill on the monitor with the vertical lines:

http://i54.tinypic.com/vwstht.jpg

This second one shows a comparison side by side of my LG monitor (left) with the bad Samsung monitor (right) with the same solid grey paint window:

http://i51.tinypic.com/1zt4z6.jpg

Also, sorry about the change in elevation between the monitors, I didn't have enough room on my desk..

Thanks again for the help guys.

[nima158]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

You can try reseating the ribbon cable that connects the logic board to the LCD panel.

You used 5 820uf caps? Did it originally have this many?

Thanks for the reply and,

Yes, I replaced the 6 CapXon caps with Nichicons with the exact same capacitance rating and voltage.

Edit: Sorry I forgot to mention, Yes Ive already tried re-seating the ribbon cable, however it only seems to be removable from one end. (LCD panel end)

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hey guys,
So I was walking home today and i came across a perfectly good looking SyncMaster 216BW that someone was throwing away, I took it with me, tested it and as expected didn't work (Blinking LED, Black screen).

I opened it up and replaced the 6 bulging CapXon capacitors with Nichicon capacitors(5x 820uF 25V, 1x 330uF 25V) on the PSU. I put it back together, and the monitor worked.

The problem is that there are vertical lines across the monitor. The lines are really faded (very transparent), thin, and many in number (Virtually cover most of the screen). It's easy to see them in most darker colors (grey, blue, violet), and impossible to see them in White & Black. The lines go over the OCD aswell, so i know its not a video card fault.

It's not THAT bad, but it could get annoying while watching videos, or anything that's not still framed. Any ideas where they're from, or how to fix them? (I'll upload pictures of the lines soon)

Oh also, If I have the monitor running for a while (10-20 minutes), it begins to make high pitched noises in no particular pattern.


Thanks!

You can try reseating the ribbon cable that connects the logic board to the LCD panel.

You used 5 820uf caps? Did it originally have this many?

[nima158]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hey guys,
So I was walking home today and i came across a perfectly good looking SyncMaster 216BW that someone was throwing away, I took it with me, tested it and as expected didn't work (Blinking LED, Black screen).

I opened it up and replaced the 6 bulging CapXon capacitors with Nichicon capacitors(5x 820uF 25V, 1x 330uF 25V) on the PSU. I put it back together, and the monitor worked.

The problem is that there are vertical lines across the monitor. The lines are really faded (very transparent), thin, and many in number (Virtually cover most of the screen). It's easy to see them in most darker colors (grey, blue, violet), and impossible to see them in White & Black. The lines go over the OCD aswell, so i know its not a video card fault.

It's not THAT bad, but it could get annoying while watching videos, or anything that's not still framed. Any ideas where they're from, or how to fix them? (I'll upload pictures of the lines soon)

Oh also, If I have the monitor running for a while (10-20 minutes), it begins to make high pitched noises in no particular pattern.

Thanks!

[ken.pina]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Chalk up another success story. Only the second time I've tackled a soldering job.

Thanks to the advice givers on this board.

[reflex]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

A ha I do not have a multi-meter, this might be sometihng of a problem. The thing is, I've tried this soldering twice. Before, after attempt one, and attempt two, the problem is exactly the same, so I'm thinking it could well be this fuse issue. I'm just debating whether it's worth investing money in more equipment incase it isn't that, and my funds for a new monitor will dwindle further. I guess it's a bit of a gamble.

[alexanna]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Your soldering is repairable; I had problems when I first started.
Getting good contact of the capacitor leads and solder pads is critical.
One thing I always do is to gently rock the capacitor and watch for any movement on the solder pads.
The inverter fuse is just to the left of the word “DIP”.
Fuses should read very close to 0 ohms resistance.

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Plainbill: The boards I've found on ebay look quite different to mine, they're much more sparser in terms of the number of components for some reason. I guess would be a real challenge finding my exact one.

I have attached pictures. You can see how shoddy my attempt at soldering is, but the solder touches both the caps and the board. I'm guessing I may have screwed it though, and I might have to resign myself to binning the monitor

F301 is the fuse for the inverter. On the first picture, it's the green component just to the left of the word DIP.

PlainBill

[reflex]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Plainbill: The boards I've found on ebay look quite different to mine, they're much more sparser in terms of the number of components for some reason. I guess would be a real challenge finding my exact one.

I have attached pictures. You can see how shoddy my attempt at soldering is, but the solder touches both the caps and the board. I'm guessing I may have screwed it though, and I might have to resign myself to binning the monitor