Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

@Slash: What DC voltage are you getting at that large 450vdc cap, take a reading when the monitor is OFF, ON, Min brightness, 70% brightness. I want to see if the DC voltage drops down a lot when you are trying to get max brightness, it should be quite steady.
Be careful, you are measuring the voltage on the HOT (Line) side of the circuit! isolation transformer should be used.

OFF: 3
ON: 315
Min Bright: 309
Max Bright: 308

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

@Slash: What DC voltage are you getting at that large 450vdc cap, take a reading when the monitor is OFF, ON, Min brightness, 70% brightness. I want to see if the DC voltage drops down a lot when you are trying to get max brightness, it should be quite steady.
Be careful, you are measuring the voltage on the HOT (Line) side of the circuit! isolation transformer should be used.

If I'm right:

use the tester to check DC on the 450 cap in every condition...

what I dont understand is the isolation transformer part, how can I isolate the hot part without isolate the whole monitor?

[jayoung]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I have no other ccfl

Unfortunately, without spares, the only way to know for sure if it's the ccfl's is to dismantle the entire monitor including the panel assembly. This will allow you to look at the bulbs and possibly determine if they are the issue. This is a very delicate process and not recommended for the impatient type as they are fragile and can easily be broken.

[budm]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

@Slash: What DC voltage are you getting at that large 450vdc cap, take a reading when the monitor is OFF, ON, Min brightness, 70% brightness. I want to see if the DC voltage drops down a lot when you are trying to get max brightness, it should be quite steady.
Be careful, you are measuring the voltage on the HOT (Line) side of the circuit! isolation transformer should be used.

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

what ccfl have to buy?

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I have no other ccfl

[jayoung]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

As ccfl's age, they will draw more and more power causing the circuit protection to shut down the monitor to prevent damage. With lowering the brightness, they are drawing less power than the threshold for the protection circuit and allow the monitor to stay on.

It could also be an issue with the wiring to the ccfl's, the connection of the wiring to the ccfl's, or a broken ccfl that could cause the increased power draw. Typically aging ccfl's will show a pink tint on the screen especially white backgrounds.

I have spare ccfl's (known working ones from a different monitor) that I install on monitors in question. If they light and stay on, then I know there's an issue with the ccfl's that are in the monitor. Then it's a matter of swapping out one original ccfl at a time to determine the specific ccfl(s) that is the cause of the issue.

There may be other issues that other members may look toward, but the ccfl's is where I would start if this were mine. It's fairly simple to prove, but only if you have spare ccfl's to use.

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

if I set brightness at 100 white pages have the brightness dancing problem...

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I tried, is not pink, is white and clear

[jayoung]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Do you by chance have an extra panel or ccfl's that you can use to test with this monitor?

Put a white screen (or mostly white) on the computer, turn off the monitor for a period of time, turn it back on. Does the screen appear pink at the top or bottom?

The reasoning for the questions, is that you may be experiencing ccfl's (one or more) that are nearing the end of their life.

[slash2378]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi guys, here's my problem

after some years I got a dancing brightness problem (like the monitor is setting brightness at 80,70,90,70 by itself for a sec) and a couple of 0.5 sec to black... I bought all the caps from a local dealer, I found that 2 of the 3 usual caps were dead I changed all 3, now I have a very little of dancing brightness problem, almost 0... but a 0.5 sec to black if brightness is more than 74...

If I keep brightness at 74 or less the monitor is fine, only a couple of dancing brightness at beginning and only if I set a white page or a page like this forum...

If brightness is more than 74 the monitor go on for 0.5 then the backlight go off, I can see the image only with a lamp on the screen...

If brightness is at 74, I power on then I set brightness at 100 I have no problems, but I have to remember to set the brightness to 74 before turn the pc off, of I have to set it with the lamp on the pc because of the 0.5 to black problem

What is this problem?

Tnx all, nice forum

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi Guys,

would this caps do the trick?

What country do you live in?

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi Guys,

would this caps do the trick?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ht_1868wt_1164
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_500wt_1413

A general rule of thumb is do NOT order caps from eBay sellers. Most are fakes. Ask yourself why would someone in China be selling Japanese caps?

PlainBill

[itzikv]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi Guys,

would this caps do the trick?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ht_1868wt_1164
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_500wt_1413

[jhirsch]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Here's what I would replace. I'm using Panasonic part numbers. Any low ESR caps from the other manufacturers on the 'Good caps list' would also work.

C107 47uF 50v GL 105 °C C640 VENT 5mm D x 10mm H EEU-FC1H470
C110 820uF 25v GL 105 °C C646 VENT 10mm D x 20mm H EEU-FM1E821L *
C111 820uF 25v GL 105 °C C646 VENT 10mm D x 20mm H EEU-FM1E821L *
C112 330uF 25v GL 105 °C C638 VENT 10mm D x 15mm H EEU-FM1E331
C301 680uF 25v GL 105 °C C650 VENT 10mm D x 17mm H EEU-FM1E681
C302 680uF 25v GL 105 °C C650 VENT 10mm D x 17mm H EEU-FM1E681

* Check the height on these. You might have to use EEU-FC1E821S instead

This cap has a low failure rate, but if I ignore it Toasty will get on my case.
C105 150uF 450v GL 105 °C C640 VENT 20mm D x 42mm H EET-ED2W151BA


PlainBill

I recently replaced all the CapXon caps in my Samsung 226BW with the caps listed above with one exception:
Instead of using the 150uF cap noted above (which has a Snap-In termination), I used a Nichicon UPT2W151MRD, which is a leaded version, which is necessary since the part sits at a right angle. This one has a slightly lower ripple current rating than the Panasonic one, but I'm not sure how it actually compares to the original CapXon part. Hopefully this won't be an issue.... Has anybody measured the ripple current for this design?

Thanks to those who solved this problem before me!

[waitepb]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi,
I'm yet another person using their first post to thank you guys for saving me well over £100.
My 226BW died the 2 seconds to black death after 47 months of service and I really thought I was heading to ebuyer to order a new monitor but, thankfully, I found a repair video on YouTube and that ultimately led me here.
I bought the recommended caps from the local Radio Spares store here in the UK (just £5 total for 2 x 5 caps, collected from the store) and I did the swap in about an hour. The hardest/scariest bit was prying open the bezel (every "crack" sounded like a break!).
Once past that it was so easy - I only had to disconnect 4 small header plugs, the replacement caps were *exactly* the same size as the originals and I was sooo pleased when the display sprang back into life afterwards.
I just despair at the number of monitors etc. that must get skipped when a little information and a few pounds could bring 'em right back into service.
Anyway, just had to say "thanks" and "keep up the good work".
All the best,
Pete

[Scenic]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

http://www.ccflwarehouse.com
Or find a monitor with a cracked screen on ebay for cheap. Or just a cracked panel alone.

If you decide not to fix it, I might be interested in the mainboard, as i've got a 223BW with a stone dead one, but otherwise in mint condition.

[Bolus]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Just to let you guys know. I've opened my monitor completely to take a further look at the lamps. I found the upper 2 ccfls are broken. The glass is broken and it's all black at the connection.

I don't think I'm going to repair it. I can't find a supplier for ccfls at a reasonable price, and I'm afraid something is wrong at the board that will make the lamps break again when I've replaced them.

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I did get the $2.99 Fry's special you suggested and also picked up some 60/40 solder for $2.99, and I'm going to solder the caps from Digikey (they came on Sat) tonight.

The $2.99 soldering iron should do the job on a single layer PCB. I use the "sort by lowest price" ebay method to buy my soldering irons and they work fine. I recently recapped a Samsung LCD and (6 caps) and I was done in less than 20 minutes.

[ibruno]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I haven't used a desoldering tool to remove a cap from a single layer board in years. Personally, I think you are optimistic to believe you will be doing this only once. First you will fix this monitor. They you will decide to preemptively recap it's companion, then someone will offer you a TV...

Still, for a single recap job (or two) this soldering iron should do exactly what you need. Instead of a dedicated desoldering tool I use a dissecting pick to clear the molten solder from the hole. If your local Frys Electronics has it in stock, you can spend a few hours drooling over the other items in that aisle.

PlainBill

Thanks for the reply PlainBill! I had already thrown out the Radio Shack packaging, so I decided to keep the Desoldering Tool and it worked pretty well for me; I was able to desolder the 3 bad caps and remaining 2 CapXon's last night in less than 10 minutes and all went well.

You are probably right about this not being a one time thing; I spent a lot of time in Fry's and they had a lot of cool stuff. I did get the $2.99 Fry's special you suggested and also picked up some 60/40 solder for $2.99, and I'm going to solder the caps from Digikey (they came on Sat) tonight.

I can't believe that I considered buying a new monitor; this repair cost less than $13! Thanks!

Bruno