Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

This is what I could find about the caps:

Nippon KMF Mini, High Freq. Use, Low Z, 330uF-25V-KMF
Nippon SXE Mini, High Freq. Use, Low Z, 1000uF-25V-SXE
Nippon KMF Mini, High Freq. Use, Low Z, 47uF-50V-KMF

I don't know if this helps.

Could I try to start the monitor with less ccfls connected? Maybe this could help determine if there is a wiring problem?

I am unimpressed with the specs on the replacement caps. I prefer Panasonic FM; Panasonic FC are regarded as marginally low ESR. The KMF and SXE have an impedance roughly 4 times greater than equivalent FC caps, and a ripple current rating 1/4 less.

Still, I'm not sure that is the cause of the problem. Did the symptoms change after replacing the caps?

There is a test you can do that involves disconnecting the CCFLs. It may or may not produce results.

With power off, disconnect all but one CCFL. Turn on the monitor and the backlights should come on briefly. Repeat for the remaining CCFLs. If one CCFL fails to light, it is defective. If all CCFLs fail to light, they are driven in pairs, and the upper pair must be tested together, and the lower pair tested together.

PlainBill

[Bolus]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

This is what I could find about the caps:

Nippon KMF Mini, High Freq. Use, Low Z, 330uF-25V-KMF
Nippon SXE Mini, High Freq. Use, Low Z, 1000uF-25V-SXE
Nippon KMF Mini, High Freq. Use, Low Z, 47uF-50V-KMF

I don't know if this helps.

Could I try to start the monitor with less ccfls connected? Maybe this could help determine if there is a wiring problem?

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Thank you for your answer. The 450v is not showing any signs that it is bad. I think the brand is "Nippon", they are all rated 105 degrees.

I'm not very good with electronics, but I think I know what you mean.
The one on the side of the power plug is: 1098 ohm
The other one: 1117 ohm.

I just ran a cold start, doesn't seem pinkish. Just normal image and a tik, tik, tik sound and than it shuts down.

I don't have spare ccfls unfortunately.

The symptoms indicate 'two seconds to black'. Possible causes include capacitors, transformer, CCFLs and wiring, and the protection circuit.

The resistance test indicates the transformers are good.

At this point you have three options.

1. Check and report the name and series codes on the capacitors.

2. Open the LCD panel up and check the wiring to the CCFLs.

3. Buy a new monitor.

[Bolus]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Thank you for your answer. The 450v is not showing any signs that it is bad. I think the brand is "Nippon", they are all rated 105 degrees.

I'm not very good with electronics, but I think I know what you mean.
The one on the side of the power plug is: 1098 ohm
The other one: 1117 ohm.

I just ran a cold start, doesn't seem pinkish. Just normal image and a tik, tik, tik sound and than it shuts down.

I don't have spare ccfls unfortunately.

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hey Guys,

I'm having the same problems with syncmaster 226bw. The screen (backlight) goes on for about a second and then turns of. I have replaced the following caps:

3 x 25V, 330UF, 105GR
2 x 25V, 820UF, 105GR (replaced with 2 x 25v 1000UF)
1 x 50V, 47UF, 105GR

The problem is still the same. The only cap that is still there is the big one, 450v 150UF. Should I replace this one as well?

Not at this time unless there are physical signs it is bad (leaking, discolored leads, etc).

What brand and series of caps did you use for replacements?

Have you compared the resistances of the secondary windings on the inverter?

From a cold start, does the display have a pinkish tint in the first few seconds?

Do you have a spare set of CCFLs to use for testing?

PlainBill

[Bolus]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I'm having the same problems with syncmaster 226bw.

Edit: I've noticed it's a 225bw, my bad.

[Bolus]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hey Guys,

I'm having the same problems with syncmaster 226bw. The screen (backlight) goes on for about a second and then turns of. I have replaced the following caps:

3 x 25V, 330UF, 105GR
2 x 25V, 820UF, 105GR (replaced with 2 x 25v 1000UF)
1 x 50V, 47UF, 105GR

The problem is still the same. The only cap that is still there is the big one, 450v 150UF. Should I replace this one as well?

[PlainBill]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I too would like to thank this community for helping me diagnose the problem I was experiencing with my SyncMaster 226BW Rev 0.1 monitor.

The flickering started back in the Spring and got steadily worse until this Fall when I decided to leave the monitor all the time. Not the smartest idea, I know, but it was either that or actually try and fix the thing! I had actually found this forum last spring, but the idea of desoldering/soldering seemed too daunting to attempt.

Leave it to mother nature to finally get me off my butt and do something about it; about a week or two ago my part of Los Angeles experienced pretty bad winds, and I lost power more than few times. But it only took the first time to realize that my monitor was pretty much dead. It did power back up after the first outage, but it took a few hours! After the second outage, I didn't even bother to try and see if it would come back.

Luckily I have two of these mounted side by side, so at least I was still able to get online. My first stop was Amazon, and I figured I would just replace the monitor. But then I remembered having found this thread, and here I am.

Thanks to all of the helpful posts I have found all the parts I need at both Digikey and Mouser, but I still have a question that I am hoping someone can help answer.

I've never desoldered/soldered anything before, but I'm typing from the Hackintosh that I built a few years ago and I am pretty good with technology. Anyway, after reading a few reviews/threads, I purchased a desoldering iron from Radio Shack for $11. I was also thinking of getting another el-cheapo iron from Radio Shack for the soldering job, but discovered that the Radio Shack Desoldering Iron will accept a Weller PL111 tip, available for $5.35 from Mouser.

So my question is would it be okay to preform the soldering with the Radio Shack Desoldering Iron and the Weller PL111 tip, or would the iron be difficult to solder with because of the odd 90 degree angle? If so, are there any inexpensive soldering irons you would recommend for this job? I don't anticipate having to use the iron again, unless the other monitor goes bad as well.

Thanks again for all the great threads and comments,

Bruno

I haven't used a desoldering tool to remove a cap from a single layer board in years. Personally, I think you are optimistic to believe you will be doing this only once. First you will fix this monitor. They you will decide to preemptively recap it's companion, then someone will offer you a TV...

Still, for a single recap job (or two) this soldering iron should do exactly what you need. Instead of a dedicated desoldering tool I use a dissecting pick to clear the molten solder from the hole. If your local Frys Electronics has it in stock, you can spend a few hours drooling over the other items in that aisle.

PlainBill

[ibruno]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I too would like to thank this community for helping me diagnose the problem I was experiencing with my SyncMaster 226BW Rev 0.1 monitor.

The flickering started back in the Spring and got steadily worse until this Fall when I decided to leave the monitor all the time. Not the smartest idea, I know, but it was either that or actually try and fix the thing! I had actually found this forum last spring, but the idea of desoldering/soldering seemed too daunting to attempt.

Leave it to mother nature to finally get me off my butt and do something about it; about a week or two ago my part of Los Angeles experienced pretty bad winds, and I lost power more than few times. But it only took the first time to realize that my monitor was pretty much dead. It did power back up after the first outage, but it took a few hours! After the second outage, I didn't even bother to try and see if it would come back.

Luckily I have two of these mounted side by side, so at least I was still able to get online. My first stop was Amazon, and I figured I would just replace the monitor. But then I remembered having found this thread, and here I am.

Thanks to all of the helpful posts I have found all the parts I need at both Digikey and Mouser, but I still have a question that I am hoping someone can help answer.

I've never desoldered/soldered anything before, but I'm typing from the Hackintosh that I built a few years ago and I am pretty good with technology. Anyway, after reading a few reviews/threads, I purchased a desoldering iron from Radio Shack for $11. I was also thinking of getting another el-cheapo iron from Radio Shack for the soldering job, but discovered that the Radio Shack Desoldering Iron will accept a Weller PL111 tip, available for $5.35 from Mouser.

So my question is would it be okay to preform the soldering with the Radio Shack Desoldering Iron and the Weller PL111 tip, or would the iron be difficult to solder with because of the odd 90 degree angle? If so, are there any inexpensive soldering irons you would recommend for this job? I don't anticipate having to use the iron again, unless the other monitor goes bad as well.

Thanks again for all the great threads and comments,

Bruno

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

replaced with
3x 1000uf 25v hope these will be ok ?
1x 330uf 25v
found them in some old samsung dvd players i had in the shed.

Using used caps that may or may not be low ESR is not a good idea. A SMPS requires low ESR caps like Panasonic FR, FM, or FC series.

New caps are less than 50 or 60 cents each and quality ones like the Panasonic will last much longer than Capxon (very poor quality).

[leonuk]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Cheers lads for the info.
i used to have a flickering 2232bw but no more.
CapXon
3x 820uf 25v
1x 330uf 25v
all bulging ready to pop.

replaced with
3x 1000uf 25v hope these will be ok ?
1x 330uf 25v
found them in some old samsung dvd players i had in the shed.

if only i found this forum before i waste my money on SyncMaster P2270 to replace it .

cheers lads

[Th3_uN1Qu3]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

If the caps are suited for the job, bulging will be a very slow process and occur only after several years of use. There's no risk of explosion.

[RyanG]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

My Samsung 226BW had the issue where it would beep in power save mode. When coming out of power save mode I would have switch from digital to analog and back before I would see a picture on the screen. I was able to fix the monitor by replacing all capacitors except for the big one. Thanks to everyone on this board for your help and encouragement (this was my first time soldering anything).

Quick question. My 5x 820uF 25v capacitors are 25mm high and are touching the top of the chassis. Is this going to cause any problems? For example, do they need room on top for airflow? If they go bad in the future and begin to bulge, will they explode? Just want to make sure I'm not creating a safety hazard.

Ryan

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Badcaps.net is definitely one of the best examples why the Internet is such a great thing!

I should make a world map of all the people I have helped. Should be interesting to see all the locations.

I'm glad your monitor is working again.

[gkronome]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I'd like to thank for the help this forum provided in making my monitor work again!
Special thanks goes out to retiredcaps for answering my questions in detail.

Badcaps.net is definitely one of the best examples why the Internet is such a great thing!

[derleaf]

Parts list check

I'm planning on ordering a full set of caps for my 226, could someone with more experience please check the following list to make sure the parts are acceptable? I'm especially interested in whether the 450v cap is right and which of the three panasonics I want for the 820uf.

Number F D H V Series T Manufacturer Part number
c105 100uf 20 36 450/500v M VENT 105 °C Panasonic EETHC2W101BA
c118 2.2uf 5 10 50v GL VENT 105 °C Rubycon 50YXF2.2M5X11
c318 22uf 6.5 10 50v GL VENT 105 °C Rubycon 50YK22M5X11
c113 330uf 10 12.5 25v GL VENT 105 °C Rubycon 25YXF330M10X12.5
c107 47uf 6.5 10 50v KM VENT 105 °C Rubycon 50YXF47M6.3X11
c111 820uf 10 20 25v GL VENT 105 °C Panasonic One of:
c112 820uf 10 20 25v GL VENT 105 °C " EEUFK1E821
c114 820uf 10 20 25v GL VENT 105 °C " EEUFR1E821
c316 820uf 10 20 25v GL VENT 105 °C " EEUTP1E821
c317 820uf 10 20 25v GL VENT 105 °C "

[gkronome]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Thank you again, retiredcaps! Everythings's clear now.
I'm ordering the new caps next Monday...

[retiredcaps]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Basically now I'm asking if the Rubycon RX30 series is O.K. for C118, C318 and C107?

Yes. See C107 at bottom.

The few things that still worry me a bit about them:

- the chosen RX30 caps all have a lead spacing of 3.5 mm, while on the board the thru-holes are 5mm from each other for all caps. Clearly they will not 'sit tight' on the board (but then, neither did the originals). Can this be a problem?

As long as you don't pull hard from the bottom, it should be fine. I don't think you will find too many caps with 5mm spacing in the 2.2/22uF 50V specs.

- The original C107 was a general purpose cap (ESR unknown), the replacement is low-ESR, and I recall that sometimes too low an ESR may turn out bad. Can this be the case here?

See

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...39&postcount=2

Use Panasonic FC for Capxon KM series.

[gkronome]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hello again!

Sorry, but I have no proper equipment to make quality photos.
Anyway, looked up all the specs of the caps to be replaced:
C111,C112,C114,C316,C317 : CapXon GL 820uF 25V 10x20 - Ripple: 1560mA @100kHz, ESR: 0.043 Ohm
C113 : CapXon GL 330uF 25V 10x12.5 - Ripple: 720mA @100kHz, ESR: 0.082Ohm
C118 : CapXon GL 2.2uF 50V 5x11 - Ripple: 33mA @100kHz, ESR: 2.6Ohm
C318 : CapXon GL 22uF 50V 6.3x11 - Ripple: 135mA @100kHz, ESR: 1 Ohm
C107 : CapXon KM 47uF 50V 6.3x11 - Ripple: 115mA @120 Hz!, ESR: ??? (general purpose cap)

and after looking around at Farnell, came up with the following possible (orderable) replacements:
C111,C112,C114,C316,C317 : PANASONIC EEUFR1E821
C113 : PANASONIC EEUFR1E331 (so far, just as retiredcaps advised...)
C118 : RUBYCON 50RX302R2M8X11.5
C318 : RUBYCON 50RX3022M8X11.5
C107 : RUBYCON 50RX3047M8X11.5
(specs for the last three @ https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...b5c4dc5986.pdf)

Basically now I'm asking if the Rubycon RX30 series is O.K. for C118, C318 and C107?

I'm leaning towards these because they seem to have a longer than average life expentancy and good temperature tolerance. Their ripple current and ESR ratings should be O.K. (or else I completely misunderstood something). The few things that still worry me a bit about them:

- the chosen RX30 caps all have a lead spacing of 3.5 mm, while on the board the thru-holes are 5mm from each other for all caps. Clearly they will not 'sit tight' on the board (but then, neither did the originals). Can this be a problem? Is there something to take extra care of while soldering?
- The original C107 was a general purpose cap (ESR unknown), the replacement is low-ESR, and I recall that sometimes too low an ESR may turn out bad. Can this be the case here?

[gkronome]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

If you read posts by regular members, you will find out

1) members suggest replacing all the electrolytic capacitors except the largest one which rarely, but not never, fails.

2) Capxon has a terrible reputation for quality. Thus, if 6 Capxon caps are dead, the others can't be far behind.

3) PCBONEZ teaches people how to choose caps wrt to esr, ripple at

https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo... postcount=19
...

Thank you very much for the advice and the link. Fortunately I haven't ordered the new caps yet . It'll probably be Panasonic FR-series then (after cross-checking specs with the originals), and all caps will be replaced except the big one.

Will be back when I have more news... Thanks again!