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  • retiredcaps
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Originally posted by fusion450 View Post
    I was kind of hoping to just go to radio shack. But anything online will work. Thanks!
    Radio Shack will likely NOT have low ESR capacitors which are required in a SMPS power supply. See my standard response at (regulars may skip)

    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...84&postcount=3

    Leave a comment:


  • fusion450
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Originals are CapXon: 1 - 47/50 KM 6.5 x 10 - n/a / 115mA

    1 - 22/50 GL 6.5 x 10 - 1 Ohm / 135mA

    1 - 2.2/50 GL 5 x 10 - 2.6 Ohm / 33mA

    1 - 330/25 GL 10 x 12.5 - 82mO / 720mA

    5 - 820/25 GL 10 x 20 - Size does not exist in current chart - drop down to can size that matches (680uF/25v) - 52mO / 1280mA

    ** height to the panel is 25.5mm

    I was kind of hoping to just go to radio shack. But anything online will work. Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • Jasgriff
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    New capacitors will have the values written on the side of them. If you list them on here then I am sure one of us can point you in the right direction.

    Leave a comment:


  • fusion450
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Hello everyone. I'm new to capacitors and all this fun stuff. I was hoping i could get some help. I need some new capacitors due to some flickering. I have my monitor ripped apart currently. I know someone on this thread named toasty was able to help someone named krickster on page 2 about the same problem with the same capacitors i need. Though his order history from digi key is no longer viewable.

    The power supply model number is:
    IP-43130A

    226BW-VE REV0.0 2007.04.18

    Monitor type is LTM220MI-L01
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • 67Vet
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Yes.., it's bad.., was hoping it was fixable.., will have to think about further repair from here.


    Thank-You to Jasgriff and selldoor for all of your assistance..!!

    Cheers.....

    Leave a comment:


  • Jasgriff
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Thats bad news. You need to take a look at ccfl warehouse for a replacement.

    Leave a comment:


  • 67Vet
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Well.....,

    Here is what I found......


    .
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • selldoor
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    There is lots of info on this site regarding ccfls - problem is finding it
    This is a good thread and it has links to examples of bad wiring for you to look out for.
    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11934.


    Here is some more pictures - and a bit of instruction
    http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/instru...e=LTM210W2-L01

    As Jasgriff says take great care - lights are VERY fragile and wiring
    disintegrates with the heat. Something to tackle when you are not going to be rushed.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jasgriff
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Im sure the CCFL will be fine and it will more than likely be the wire that's come off the end. When you get the the bulb be very very careful and remember when you sake the silicone cap off the end do it very carefully as you will need to put that back on.

    Leave a comment:


  • 67Vet
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Alrighty..,

    Thanks for the input once again..!!

    Originally posted by selldoor View Post
    Did you just try One lamp in the plug that didnt work - try another lamp.
    Did you try the lamp that didnt work in another plug- try it

    Just trying to confirm it is a dodgy lamp/wiring or dodgy socket.
    => Ok.., good suggestion to try another lamp plug into that board output.., I did that.., and that output did light the other lamp. I also did try the lamp plug that didn't work into a different output.., and it didn't work in the other known good output.., so it would appear that it is that one lamp that is the issue.

    Originally posted by selldoor View Post
    Just re read what you said - you are saying that the panel off the 22 inch lit perfectly when connected to the 20 inch?
    If that IS what you are saying then the panel lights & wiring on the 22 inch are probably ok and the fault is in the inverter.
    => Ok.., clearity.., sorry.., here is how I should have worded it.., I plugged the CCFL plugs of the 20" panel.., into the board outlets of the 22" - 226BW...., and the 20" screen came on full and bright.., I turned it off (22" board & 20" screen) after @ 20 seconds. I turned it on a few more times and it remained on steady until I turned it off.

    Originally posted by selldoor View Post
    First re try the original 22 inch panel back in the 22 inch monitor- just in case it was not connected properly in the first place.
    then if that doesnt stay on can you Plug the 20inch panel into the 22
    and see how long that stays on.
    => I completed your suggestion as above.., re-tried 22" panel with 22" board and it produced the '2 seconds to black'..., also re-tried the 20" panel with the 22" board.., and the 20" panel stayed on good and bright as long as I left it turned on.

    In summary..,

    ... initially I unplugged the 22" CCFL plugs from the 22" board.., and tried them one at a time and 3 of 4 turned on for 2 seconds then black. I then tried as suggested.., and plugged the 'non-working' lamp plug into a different 'known working' board outlet.., and that non-working lamp did not work on the different outlet. I then plugged a known working lamp plug.., into the board outlet that I previously marked as not working.., and the lamp did come on with that outlet.., so that outlet does work.., but that one lamp does not work on a different 'working' outlet position.

    ... I then re-tried connecting my 20" panel to the board of the 22" monitor.., and the 20" panel turned on correctly and bright.., for as long as I left the power on.., so the 22" board operated the 20" panel correctly.

    I will work at taking the 22" panel apart to have a look.., I just hope the lamp is not shot.


    .... your assistance is much appreciated..!!

    Leave a comment:


  • selldoor
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Did you just try One lamp in the plug that didnt work - try another lamp.
    Did you try the lamp that didnt work in another plug- try it

    Just trying to confirm it is a dodgy lamp/wiring or dodgy socket.

    Just re read what you said - you are saying that the panel off the 22 inch
    lit perfectly when connected to the 20 inch?
    If that IS what you are saying then the panel lights & wiring on the
    22 inch are probably ok and the fault is in the inverter.

    First re try the original 22 inch panel back in the 22 inch monitor- just in case it was not connected properly in the first place.
    then if that doesnt stay on can you Plug the 20inch panel into the 22
    and see how long that stays on.
    Last edited by selldoor; 03-28-2012, 08:31 AM. Reason: re read

    Leave a comment:


  • Jasgriff
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    That might suggest that the low voltage wire has come off the end of the CCFL tube. You will need to take the panel apart to have a look.

    Leave a comment:


  • 67Vet
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Ok..,

    I have another Samsung monitor.., a 20".., I didn't really want to use it.., but decided to proceed.., so I plugged the CCFL plugs of the 226BW.., into the 20" panel.., and the screen came on full and bright.., I turned it off after @ 20 seconds. I turned it on a few more times and it remained on steady until I turned it off.

    Also.., before doing the above.., I unplugged all four CCFL plugs on the 226BW.., then re-connected one plug at a time and turned the power on.., to test if a lamp would come on.., as suggested in 'retiredcaps' guide.., post #20.., the result was that a lamp did come on...., for 3 of the 4 plugs.., I marked the one plug position that did not illuminate a lamp.

    So I gather that the '2 seconds to black' is caused by this CCFL connection or lamp.

    I assume the next step is to disassemble the panel and check the connections.., wiring and bulbs..?

    Leave a comment:


  • selldoor
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    You dont need to completely disassemble -just open up disconnect ccfl leads and
    plug in to sockets on 226bw . May be a struggle and 17in might have 2 bulbs and 22 4 bulbs - in which case substitute one lead at a time-
    17 inch is usually ok for a short test Unless the fault recognition system is so accurate that it spots the imbalance. In which case it will still just shut down.

    Another thing that sometimes works is that top bulbs wear out quicker than bottom ones due to more heat and if you change the leads around it may work.

    Leave a comment:


  • 67Vet
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Hello..,

    Thanks for your replies..!

    Jasgriff.., I have a few 17" monitors that I could disassemble.., do the spare CCFL's have to be the same size.., or can I use one of my 17" units..?

    I have repaired two other monitors with the Bursting Caps issue and they both work great.., I guess this unit has another challenge.

    selldoor.., thanks for the link to the guide.., I will have a look at that today.


    .... info is much appreciated..!!

    Leave a comment:


  • selldoor
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    @ 67vet

    The guide referred to is here https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10419 latest version starts at post 19.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jasgriff
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    There are a number of things that can cause the 2 seconds to black. Retiredcaps has a step by step guide on the most common causes and how to test for them I would say that's worth a try.

    The last couple of monitors I have had with 2 seconds to black had faulty CCFL connections. This can cause the IC controlling the inverters to shutdown after a few seconds.

    To test for this you really need a spare CCFL or 2 do you have any spares?

    Leave a comment:


  • 67Vet
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Hello..,

    I have a 226BW.., the screen did not illuminate but was working as you can see the desktop if you put a flashlight up to the screen. The power light came on.., but the screen did not. I removed the back and found the usual bursting caps.., both 820's.., so I purchased new caps and replaced these two first. I re-assembled.., now the screen came on after a second or two.., but the screen only stayed on for a second or two.., then went black. So I then replaced the remaining caps.., but still have the same problem.., screen comes on for a second or two.., then goes black. If you cycle the power button.., it does the same thing.., on for a second or two.., then black. I scanned the power board.., looking for solder stragglers that may have dropped onto the board.., as was suggested in this forum.., but found nothing.

    I am puzzled as to what to do next.

    I was thinking of changing the two 820's.., wondering if they could be bad.., just not sure what to do next.., would greatly appreciate any suggestions.

    Thanks for any input offered.

    Leave a comment:


  • budm
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    @slash, Is your AC 230VAC? I expect to see about 325VDC on that cap if the incoming is 230VAC, 230 X 1.414= 325VDC), but the Min and Max numbers seems to be steady enough.

    Leave a comment:


  • benius
    replied
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    Hello, guys!
    I'm happy as a bunny because I just fixed my 4 1/2 years old flickering Samsung 226BW following your advices and replacing the bad Capxon caps from the power board.
    I have replaced all the capacitors (my first time with the soldering iron ), except the big one, with the following products I bought from RS Online:
    1 X 47μF 50V Nichicon UPW1H470MED
    1 X 330μF 25V Rubycon 25YXH330MEFC10X12.5
    2 X 680μF 25V Panasonic EEUFM1E681
    2 X 820μF 25V Rubycon 25ZLH820MEFC10X20
    For the 47μF cap I choose the Nichicon PW over Panasonic FC because the later have slightly lower ripple and higher ESR specs than the Capxon GL counterpart, I hope it's OK and nothing goes (I don't really think that, I just wanted to use the smiley ).
    Thank you very much for this great website and keep it alive, you're helping a lot of people!

    LE: I know it's my first post and I hope I don't break any rule, but if anyone is interested, I have 4 spare capacitor kits (I had to order packs of 10), so if you don't want to buy more caps than necessary I could send you one for 5€ + shipping anywhere in the world (usually 2-3€ for shipping), just PM me.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by benius; 03-26-2012, 12:48 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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