Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

[Vegcrable]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Doh! wasn't a bad solder joint ... so I tryed short pin 5 and 6 ... and now it won't turn on at all.
Even if I remove the short. Maybe I did overheat the chip. But I'm still ganna try to buy an other chip soon.

[Vegcrable]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I was going to do some soldering tonight and I found on the chip A81SC that the pin 5 have bad solder joint.

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Great! - take care putting it al back together - we have actually had members
do daft things like putting it down on a screw and so on.

[baalzamon]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Took the foray into removing the bad caps off my power board and replaced with the rubycons I had gotten.
Quick test and YAY monitor no longer flickers at startup. I'm going to go around and replace the remainder of the original caps with the rubycons I've got.

[jetadm123]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Yes, remove the short.

[Vegcrable]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Ok, I found this on your forum :
"""Hooray, I've fixed it! I was right all along - EEPROM A81SC (24C08) got corrupted (probably due to the wild voltage swings because of bad caps).

So shorting pins 5 and 6 while turning the monitor on, cleared it and the monitor stopped freezing!

tom66, thanks for the info!"""

I might try to do that but should I remove the short after clearing menu... ?

[Vegcrable]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi, Sorry if I make some mistake in english,
I'm from Canada (Province of Quebec).

Someone gave me a 216BW, I know it's not a 226BW but the boards in it are similar or identical to 226BW. I've replaced the caps in it, with all the good specs.

Here are the caps I've changed : Power Board

1x 2.2uF 50v
1x 22uF 50v
1x 47uF 50v
1x 330uF 25v
5x 820uF 25v

I didn't change the 100uF 450v, With my "caps meter" I get 94uF.

Someone in the threat posted the same problem that I have """
The problem is that there are vertical lines across the monitor. The lines are really faded (very transparent), thin, and many in number (Virtually cover most of the screen). It's easy to see them in most darker colors (grey, blue, violet), and impossible to see them in White & Black. """

One of this link was posted by the same person, so I reused it for exemple """ http://i54.tinypic.com/vwstht.jpg """

These are pics found on google image for exemple, these boards are the one that I have in my monitor """ http://www.ccl-la.com/catalog/images...k3qutrg3m123e4 """

Driver Board """ http://www.ledbos.com/images/Driver_...N41-00885B.jpg """

So how should I proceed to fix that problem, Ty all and nice Job

[baalzamon]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

So I was on au.element14.com and got the caps I wanted in the basket and it came to $34 AU. $12.50 of that was shipping. thought to myself I wonder what badcaps charges. Just under $18 shipped.
Now to wait for them to arrive and I can get myself some practice on a test kit

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

The brown on the back of the board looks like flux can be cleaned off with your alcohol. Still cant tell what is wrong with the legs - maybe just a bit of heat/oxidation - I dont think its a problem - might clean off if you want to try.
I would just get the new caps in then go from there.

[baalzamon]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

So could the crud on the legs be thermal paste that has run hot and melted down the legs coating them?
If that is the case once I have the caps on, rubbing alcohol will sort that out and maybe some new thermal paste as well.

[baalzamon]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Ok this photo appears better

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Bottom board pic is too blurred.

The legs of that don't appear too crash hot. ?? Aus idiom?

It will be thermal paste - may be ok when caps are replaced - it will have been running hotter because of them - (if its not gone altogether)
If you do decide to take it off take care to replace any electrical insulation
tabs or collars it might have ( Depending on type it might not have any so dont worry if it has not)

[baalzamon]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Picture from above and showing that D104 chip as well. The legs of that don't appear too crash hot.
Anyone replaced that before? Appears to have either glue or thermal paste on the rear of it onto the heatsink. Blulging caps are visible here as well.

[baalzamon]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Well my beloved Samsung Syncmaster 226BW started the dreaded light flickering. Then it started off with a very black screen and then very fast flickering gradually slowing taking about 5 minutes for the picture to stabilise. Last symptom I saw before dismantling was half the screen being brighter that the other before stabilising.

So I cracked it open and sure enough the 820uF capacitors are bulging. I'm sourcing capacitors on au.element14.com and have got the following capacitors in my basket
RUBYCON 25ZLH820MEFC10X20 820uF
PANASONIC - EEUFR1E681 680uF
RUBYCON - 25YXF330MEFC10X12.5 339uF
PANASONIC EEUFC1H470 47uF 50V
RUBYCON - 450TXW150MEFC18X45 150uF 450V

I then was looking at the tracks and spotted the marks in the attachment. They are located by D104. Replace, clean it? I've got rubbing alcohol. I've got rusty soldering skills and a basic soldering iron as well. Been thinking might get a kit to test my skills out on as well.

Figure spend a bit on caps vs spend $300 on a new decent LCD...

[ausheaven]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hello uRdoomd,
I may be a bit late to give you some tips.
If have have not done soldering before. Do not dispare. If you have friend who can teach you of give you a few tips that wil be good. if not and you have the required soldering equipment, solder wig or sucker then a little practice goes a long way.
First get the solder temperature right, it must just be hot enough to melt the solder to be able to suck if off with at solder sucker or wig. If you can get hold of some old printed circuit to practice it would be best.

Next you will need to open the the monitor. To do this search Badcap forum there are quite a number of them similar to your particular model. You should have no problem locating a manual which have exploded view of all the component.
The most simple method of removing is to have a flat spatular or scraper. Press press it between the joint at an angle, that way when you slide it along you will find several notches.. This is where the clip usually is. if you slowly press it down with the sharp end of the spatula it will pop out don't worry if you break the first one. There are many more. Alternatively a very thin screw drive will also do the trick. Continue locating the remainder and poping them out.
Once you open it up, remove any screw that may be on the way to access the power
supply.(Safety Caution - MAKE SURE THAT YOU DO IT WITH THE POWER CORD REMOVED AND DISCONNECT) You will very quickly establish which are capacitors, resistor etc, if not just do a search on the net. The faulty capacitors are the one that one that bulge up. You can now put your practice to remove them. Mark each capacitors as you remove them and take done their values so that you know which one goes where when you replace them.) I recommend that you replace all of them except the big power capacitor, they usually is not the problem. If you don't know the value take them as samples to your local electronic supplier and they can match them for you. Note - ONLY elctrolytic capacitor in aluminum casing swell (buldge) - sometime they leak -FEELS oily.
It is worth repairing it yourself - I have fixed a few to date.
Good luck.

[Bjerols]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

hey everyone who helped out in this thread and who own this website, I am posting this message from my now refurbished Samsung 226BW! Cost me @ $5 shipped and an hour of my time but it was well worth it... thanks for all the help!!

Update:

1.5 years later and the $5 fix is holding up strong. I work from home and monitor gets used at least ten hours a day (less on weekends).

Saved at least $100 and kept this monitor out of landfill


BIG THANKS to BadCaps Community and this thread!

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

1 Possibly- have you soldering equipment a multimeter, camera and determination.
A 22 inch is always worth trying to save but if you have no equipment the cost
rockets.
2 You wont get lengthy explanations from me but some members can "Wax Lyrical"
on the relativity of capacitors.
3 Wouldnt worry about it you will be asked what is in there- You will be doing great clear pictures for us
4 Could be - the tests you are asked to do will verify that. Cant say until we see your fuses. ( Just google fuses and click for images and you will get the idea)

Open it up and re read this thread so that before you post again you have some more
idea of what is inside and what we might ask you to do. Just reading the threaf will be mind blowing but its a lot easier with a board in front of you. Some of may even make sense

[uRdoomd]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

I've had the 226BW for quite a few years now and it's been dead for most of them (shortly after a year of purchase). I never checked for warranty because I lost the reciept (probably thrown out). I never wanted to throw it out just yet because I wanted to get it fixed. Before I took it in to get it fixed it was just a blinking power LED with no display. Now it is just dead, with no LED at all now. I thought about taking it back but they're obviously using inferior parts.

First: would it even be worth trying to fix this myself?

Second: I'm a noob with repairing electronics (as in I've never done it before) so I don't understand the terminology and I don't know what I'm looking for. I've read through quite a few posts (but not all) on this thread but none that I've seen really explain what types of caps to use. I get the ratings and such, just don't know what types of caps I should be looking for. I haven't looked at the board yet so I don't know which caps are good and which ones aren't yet either. If someone could explain the different types of caps and their advantages/disadvantages or why I should be using one over another etc. would be appreciated.

Third: Since I've previously taken this in to get it fixed, if those caps are dead, is there a link to a diagram or photo which would tell me the ratings/types/sizes/etc. of caps that were there originally?

Fourth: Since there is no power going to the power LED, does that mean there are probably fuses dead too? How can I tell and is the process to replace them the same as caps or is it more or less complicated?

If anyone can answer any of these for me, I would really appreciate any/all the help you can give me

If I can get the monitor opened up soon I'll repost with my findings if I need additional support

Thanks in advance

[Dougmeister]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Thanks for the advice. I will disassemble it again tonight and check the length of the legs.

Sorry about the post. Mods, please delete these if possible.

[selldoor]

Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Hi. I have a 225BW. Is it okay to ask in this thread or should I post elsewhere?

Considering the number of threads on the 225BW I cant understand why you would post in this thread? - post it in one of those in case it becomes drawn out - as budm says have you cut the legs short enough.