Re: Samsung un60d8000yf - worth diagnosing?
I have a power cord for my ancient Samsung HP-T5044 50" Plasma. What are the chances it would work?
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Samsung un60d8000yf - worth diagnosing?
Neighbor's kid got it to fix up and never did. No power cord. Can't tell me what's wrong with it.
I have average troubleshooting (with help) and sdering skills.
Not worth it, right?
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
Agent24, the value across those two points was 0.06.
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
Agent24, I did as you said and got a reading of 0.03 ohms. See attached.
What else should I check? Or is it probably dead now that we know that the primary fuse is still good?...
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
Oops.
Part of the board touched some metal on the frame and made a loud crackle and spark. Now it won't power on. I think I killed it and put it out of its misery....
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
So, to clarify:
1) EVERYTHING should be connected for the first set of pin tests
2) What needs to be connected once the monitor shuts off by itself? I have to disconnect the "high Voltage wires" in order to turn the board over to measure the voltage, so I did that (while it is plugged in... sounds like a bad idea?), and left the rest plugged in (ribbon cable, power cord, VGA cable).
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
The wires I spoke of are circled in yellow.
I'll try again this evening, but from memory, when it was all pulled apart, I had the wires mentioned above connected as well as the "ribbon cable"....
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
Ok. Got it turn off after about a minute by having it partly put together. (Power and VGA still connected; disconnected the red/white and black/blue wires)
1: 5.10
2: 5.10
3: 0
4: 0
5: 3.17 (?)
6: 2.07 (?)
7: 0
8: 0
9: 3.28
Did I do something wrong?Last edited by Dougmeister; 09-27-2015, 08:16 PM.
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
OKay. This is unexpected.
While I have it taken apart, it has been powered on and working for 15 minutes straight. It usually lasted less than a few minutes when it was put together...
I will see if it stays on much longer. Could it be something else other than the capacitors? I mean, 15 minutes would imply a different problem now, right?
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
I connected the power (not the VGA input) and got the following results:
1: 5.05
2: 5.00
3: 0
4: 0
5: 0.12
6: 3.04
7: 0
8: 0
9: 3.28
Sorry, but I didn't know what you meant by this. I powered it off and then all the pins gave "0". I'm almost positive that's not what you wanted me to do.
I attached pics of the back of both boards....
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
Can someone please point out the heatsink that has the double diode not connected correctly?
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
Sorry. I was responding to this comment above:
"from pic 3 i see one of the 2 double diodes on heatsink that seems not connected well to heatsink,"
Where are the diodes that aren't connected well to one of the heatsinks?
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
Nothing like bringing a thread back to life after a year and a half...
I *finally* am making time to get back to this project.
Where exactly is the heat sink in photo #3?
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
I have not been able to get the bulbs, etc. needed to test the power supply and main board, so I'd like to just replace all the capacitors.
Can someone help me figure out which caps to order and from where? I guess I should order the SRF 1020 and the 10 Ohm resistor while I'm at it...
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Re: HannsG HH241 problems
Can someone point me in the right direction as to how to test these voltages?
* 5V for the main board, and
* voltage (14~17V) for the backlights inverter
I don't know where to put the leads of the multimeter. Thanks.
Edit: I guess the first link in Bud's signature would be a good place to start?
"Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides"?...Last edited by Dougmeister; 03-25-2014, 04:59 PM.
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HannsG HH241 problems
It's been awhile since I tested it, but it seems to me that it would work for a while, then power off.
Here are some screenshots of the capacitors.
I tried testing the caps still on the board using the digital multimeter "trick" (set to Ohms, charge the caps a bit, then switch the multimeter to "volts" and see if the numbers slowly decrease). I know the test isn't foolproof, but it says all the caps are still good.
I don't see any major leakage or swelling in the tops of the caps. I've only ever fixed one LCD monitor before and that...
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW
Turns out one of the pink wires was coming loose when I put it back together. Seems to be working now. Thanks for all the info, everybody.
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Thanks for the advice. I will disassemble it again tonight and check the length of the legs.
Sorry about the post. Mods, please delete these if possible.
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Re: Samsung Syncmaster 225BW
I replaced (3) 330 uF and (2) 880 uF caps. I connected it while it was "taken apart" and it worked.
But when I put it back together, the same problems occurred ("analog" for a second, then black).
I took it apart, checked the connections, plugged it in again (while "apart"), and it worked. Put it back together again... didn't work.
What can I be missing?
Thanks.
Edit: I should note that I did *not* replace the 47 uF capacitor, nor could I even *find*...Last edited by Dougmeister; 11-14-2012, 05:54 AM.
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Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW
Hi. I have a 225BW. Is it okay to ask in this thread or should I post elsewhere?
I replaced (3) 330 uF and (2) 880 uF caps. I connected it while it was "taken apart" and it worked!
But alas, my joy was short-lived. I put it back together, and the same problems happen ("analog" for a second, then black).
I took it apart, checked the connections, plugged it in again (while "apart"), and it worked. Put it back together again... didn't work.
What can I be missing?...
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