Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • reflex
    New Member
    • Jul 2011
    • 5

    #261
    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

    A ha I do not have a multi-meter, this might be sometihng of a problem. The thing is, I've tried this soldering twice. Before, after attempt one, and attempt two, the problem is exactly the same, so I'm thinking it could well be this fuse issue. I'm just debating whether it's worth investing money in more equipment incase it isn't that, and my funds for a new monitor will dwindle further. I guess it's a bit of a gamble.

    Comment

    • ken.pina
      New Member
      • Jul 2011
      • 1

      #262
      Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

      Chalk up another success story. Only the second time I've tackled a soldering job.

      Thanks to the advice givers on this board.

      Comment

      • nima158
        Member
        • Jul 2011
        • 13

        #263
        Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

        Hey guys,
        So I was walking home today and i came across a perfectly good looking SyncMaster 216BW that someone was throwing away, I took it with me, tested it and as expected didn't work (Blinking LED, Black screen).

        I opened it up and replaced the 6 bulging CapXon capacitors with Nichicon capacitors(5x 820uF 25V, 1x 330uF 25V) on the PSU. I put it back together, and the monitor worked.

        The problem is that there are vertical lines across the monitor. The lines are really faded (very transparent), thin, and many in number (Virtually cover most of the screen). It's easy to see them in most darker colors (grey, blue, violet), and impossible to see them in White & Black. The lines go over the OCD aswell, so i know its not a video card fault.

        It's not THAT bad, but it could get annoying while watching videos, or anything that's not still framed. Any ideas where they're from, or how to fix them? (I'll upload pictures of the lines soon)

        Oh also, If I have the monitor running for a while (10-20 minutes), it begins to make high pitched noises in no particular pattern.

        Thanks!
        Last edited by nima158; 08-08-2011, 07:24 PM.

        Comment

        • jetadm123
          Badcaps Legend
          • Feb 2010
          • 2169

          #264
          Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

          Originally posted by nima158
          Hey guys,
          So I was walking home today and i came across a perfectly good looking SyncMaster 216BW that someone was throwing away, I took it with me, tested it and as expected didn't work (Blinking LED, Black screen).

          I opened it up and replaced the 6 bulging CapXon capacitors with Nichicon capacitors(5x 820uF 25V, 1x 330uF 25V) on the PSU. I put it back together, and the monitor worked.

          The problem is that there are vertical lines across the monitor. The lines are really faded (very transparent), thin, and many in number (Virtually cover most of the screen). It's easy to see them in most darker colors (grey, blue, violet), and impossible to see them in White & Black. The lines go over the OCD aswell, so i know its not a video card fault.

          It's not THAT bad, but it could get annoying while watching videos, or anything that's not still framed. Any ideas where they're from, or how to fix them? (I'll upload pictures of the lines soon)

          Oh also, If I have the monitor running for a while (10-20 minutes), it begins to make high pitched noises in no particular pattern.


          Thanks!

          You can try reseating the ribbon cable that connects the logic board to the LCD panel.

          You used 5 820uf caps? Did it originally have this many?

          Comment

          • nima158
            Member
            • Jul 2011
            • 13

            #265
            Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

            Originally posted by jetadm123
            You can try reseating the ribbon cable that connects the logic board to the LCD panel.

            You used 5 820uf caps? Did it originally have this many?
            Thanks for the reply and,

            Yes, I replaced the 6 CapXon caps with Nichicons with the exact same capacitance rating and voltage.

            Edit: Sorry I forgot to mention, Yes Ive already tried re-seating the ribbon cable, however it only seems to be removable from one end. (LCD panel end)
            Last edited by nima158; 08-08-2011, 09:48 PM.

            Comment

            • nima158
              Member
              • Jul 2011
              • 13

              #266
              Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

              Here are the pictures I have taken:

              Note that, it's very hard to see the lines on camera, and it's much easier to see them in person.

              This first one shows a paint window with a solid grey fill on the monitor with the vertical lines:
              Code:
              http://i54.tinypic.com/vwstht.jpg
              This second one shows a comparison side by side of my LG monitor (left) with the bad Samsung monitor (right) with the same solid grey paint window:
              Code:
              http://i51.tinypic.com/1zt4z6.jpg
              Also, sorry about the change in elevation between the monitors, I didn't have enough room on my desk..

              Thanks again for the help guys.

              Comment

              • darael
                New Member
                • Aug 2011
                • 5

                #267
                Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                My first post on these forums is to request help from more experienced users of these forums!

                I have a Samsung 226BW - looking at my pictures, the power board's model number is: IP-43130A. In a little seperate box underneath, it says 226BW-VE REV0.0, 2007.04.18.

                I am experiencing flickering problems when turning the monitor on, and it's getting worse by the day! I have taken the monitor apart, and found six capacitors slightly bulging at the top. The bulging capacitors are: C111, C112, C113, C114, C316 and C317. C113 is a 330uF 25v 105c, and the others are 820uF 25v 105c.

                That's about as much as I understand up to here. I'm not super with my 35w soldering iron, but I could probably manage these capacitors. How can I ensure they are all drained, especially that big C105, to ensure no nasty zaps? Is leaving the monitor unplugged at the mains for a day enough?

                Which UK based websites will stock these capacitors at cheap prices? i'm happy to pay a pennies extra for quality capacitors, if it means they will last. What make and model capacitors should I get - the different specs of the capacitors is beyond me! If the rules allow, please link.

                Comment

                • PlainBill
                  Badcaps Legend
                  • Feb 2009
                  • 7034
                  • USA

                  #268
                  Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                  Originally posted by darael
                  My first post on these forums is to request help from more experienced users of these forums!

                  I have a Samsung 226BW - looking at my pictures, the power board's model number is: IP-43130A. In a little seperate box underneath, it says 226BW-VE REV0.0, 2007.04.18.

                  I am experiencing flickering problems when turning the monitor on, and it's getting worse by the day! I have taken the monitor apart, and found six capacitors slightly bulging at the top. The bulging capacitors are: C111, C112, C113, C114, C316 and C317. C113 is a 330uF 25v 105c, and the others are 820uF 25v 105c.

                  That's about as much as I understand up to here. I'm not super with my 35w soldering iron, but I could probably manage these capacitors. How can I ensure they are all drained, especially that big C105, to ensure no nasty zaps? Is leaving the monitor unplugged at the mains for a day enough?

                  Which UK based websites will stock these capacitors at cheap prices? i'm happy to pay a pennies extra for quality capacitors, if it means they will last. What make and model capacitors should I get - the different specs of the capacitors is beyond me! If the rules allow, please link.
                  Welcome to Badcaps! Perhaps someone who lives on your side of the pond will chime in, but if I recall correctly, Farnell and RS Components are suppliers in the UK.

                  In my opinion, the ideal capacitors would be Panasonic FM or FR series, Rubycon, Nichicon, and United Chemicon all have equivalent series and are equally reliable. It is important that replacement capacitors fit in the available space. I suggest measuring the diameters of the caps, and the maximum height available. It's embarrassing if the covers won't go on after the caps are replaced.

                  Using Panasonic, the 330uF, 25V can be replaced by either EEU-FR1E331, EEU-FM1E331L or EEU-FM1E331; the difference is height and diameter. The 820uF, 25V would be EEU-FM1E821L or EEU-FR1E821.

                  PlainBill
                  For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                  Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                  Comment

                  • darael
                    New Member
                    • Aug 2011
                    • 5

                    #269
                    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                    Originally posted by PlainBill
                    Welcome to Badcaps! Perhaps someone who lives on your side of the pond will chime in, but if I recall correctly, Farnell and RS Components are suppliers in the UK.

                    In my opinion, the ideal capacitors would be Panasonic FM or FR series, Rubycon, Nichicon, and United Chemicon all have equivalent series and are equally reliable. It is important that replacement capacitors fit in the available space. I suggest measuring the diameters of the caps, and the maximum height available. It's embarrassing if the covers won't go on after the caps are replaced.

                    Using Panasonic, the 330uF, 25V can be replaced by either EEU-FR1E331, EEU-FM1E331L or EEU-FM1E331; the difference is height and diameter. The 820uF, 25V would be EEU-FM1E821L or EEU-FR1E821.

                    PlainBill
                    Thanks for replying PlainBill, much appreciated!

                    My reading online has led me to believe that the 820uF capacitors need to be 20x10mm (HxD) in size, and the 330uF need to be 15x10mm (HxD). The 330uF ones you listed are 8mm in diameter, but I shall look for 10mm ones.

                    http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic/eeuf...tt=EEU-FR1E821 - this is one of your 820uF recommendations, and it seems to fit the bill.

                    I will remove the PCB later on, and see what size those capacitors are.

                    Comment

                    • darael
                      New Member
                      • Aug 2011
                      • 5

                      #270
                      Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                      I have looked at the capacitors, and all six seem to be 10mm. These are the markings:
                      820uF CapXon GL105c, C727, vent
                      330uF CapXon GL105c, P725, vent.

                      It seems that the following capacitors are suitable - would somebody please confirm this, before I order them?

                      C111, C112, C113, C114, C316:
                      EEUFK1E821 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium/0571290/

                      C113:
                      EEUFM1E331 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium/5261519/

                      Comment

                      • PlainBill
                        Badcaps Legend
                        • Feb 2009
                        • 7034
                        • USA

                        #271
                        Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                        Originally posted by darael
                        I have looked at the capacitors, and all six seem to be 10mm. These are the markings:
                        820uF CapXon GL105c, C727, vent
                        330uF CapXon GL105c, P725, vent.

                        It seems that the following capacitors are suitable - would somebody please confirm this, before I order them?

                        C111, C112, C113, C114, C316:
                        EEUFK1E821 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium/0571290/

                        C113:
                        EEUFM1E331 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium/5261519/
                        For the 820, use 708-3743. You'll get a superior cap at slightly over 1/2 the unit cost.

                        For the 330, your choice is excellent.

                        PlainBill
                        For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                        Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                        Comment

                        • darael
                          New Member
                          • Aug 2011
                          • 5

                          #272
                          Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                          Thanks PlainBill, have placed my order as per your recommendations!

                          Comment

                          • darael
                            New Member
                            • Aug 2011
                            • 5

                            #273
                            Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                            Firstly, I'd like to thank PlainBill for their help - without it, I would be at a complete loss!

                            Secondly I want to thank everybody for providing others with such valuable information, and all for free!

                            Finally I'd like to say I got my monitor working. Being very amateur at soldering, it took me the best part of an hour to complete the process of desoldering the old capacitors, soldering the new ones on and testing. I can't deny being nervous, and expecting a blue flash as I plugged it in - when I met with silence and a blue flashing light, I was weary...so I turned the computer on, and it worked perfectly and first time round!

                            Those wondering if they should try this - I would tell them give it a go. There's about 10 screws to undo, 5 wires inside monitor to unplug, and that's it really. For the sake of about Β£12 (inc P&P), give it a go!

                            The parts I used from RS Components are:
                            Capacitor Al FR 820uF 25V 10x20 - RS Stock No. 708-3743 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7083743/
                            Al Electrolytic Cap 105C 25V 330uF - RS Stock No. 526-1519 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/5261519/

                            Once again, thank you to everybody for helping me.
                            Last edited by darael; 08-25-2011, 05:29 PM.

                            Comment

                            • PlainBill
                              Badcaps Legend
                              • Feb 2009
                              • 7034
                              • USA

                              #274
                              Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                              Originally posted by darael
                              Firstly, I'd like to thank PlainBill for their help - without it, I would be at a complete loss!

                              Secondly I want to thank everybody for providing others with such valuable information, and all for free!

                              Finally I'd like to say I got my monitor working. Being very amateur at soldering, it took me the best part of an hour to complete the process of desoldering the old capacitors, soldering the new ones on and testing. I can't deny being nervous, and expecting a blue flash as I plugged it in - when I met with silence and a blue flashing light, I was weary...so I turned the computer on, and it worked perfectly and first time round!

                              Those wondering if they should try this - I would tell them give it a go. There's about 10 screws to undo, 5 wires inside monitor to unplug, and that's it really. For the sake of about Β£12 (inc P&P), give it a go!

                              The parts I used from RS Components are:
                              Capacitor Al FR 820uF 25V 10x20 - RS Stock No. 708-3743 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7083743/
                              Al Electrolytic Cap 105C 25V 330uF - RS Stock No. 526-1519 - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/5261519/

                              Once again, thank you to everybody for helping me.
                              Good job!!!

                              And thanks for the kind words. My extended family has been fighting a 24 hour stomach virus for the last week, and I REALLY needed some good news after doing my stint worshiping the porcelain goddess.

                              PlainBill
                              For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                              Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                              Comment

                              • oldgezzer
                                oldgezzer
                                • Aug 2011
                                • 2

                                #275
                                Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                                Would like to say thanks to everyone here for the information regarding the Samsung SyncMaster 226BW replaced all the caps on the power board !
                                Parts purchased from Digi-Key
                                P11673-ND =1) 150ouf-450v 20% Snap
                                P10321-ND = 1) 47uf 50v 20% Radial
                                p11222-ND = 2) 820ouf 25v 20% Radial
                                P12386-ND = 1) 330uf 25v 20% Radial
                                P12390-ND = 2) 680uf 25v 20% Radial
                                replaced all the above and everything is working 100%

                                thanks once again

                                Oldgezzer
                                Attached Files
                                Last edited by oldgezzer; 09-06-2011, 04:06 PM.

                                Comment

                                • gkronome
                                  New Member
                                  • Sep 2011
                                  • 5

                                  #276
                                  Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                                  Hello all,

                                  This is my first post here. I found the site while searching for info on the same problem as (it seems) a lot of people: I also happen to have a faulty Samsung Syncmaster 226bw monitor. The same 6 caps as in most cases (C111, C112, C113, C114, C316 and C317 - see post #267 above from darael for example) in the power supply are puffy and I'm planning on replacing them. (They are all CapXon GL series caps, and the monitor is about 3 years old.)

                                  My only question at the moment: Is the Rubycon ZLH series O.K. for this job? Namely: 5 x 25ZLH820MEFC10X20 for C111-112, C114, C316-317 and 1 x 25ZLH330MEFC8X11.5 for C113. The capacitance/voltage/size specs are OK, I'm wondering about the other stuff (ripple current, ESR).

                                  Thanks in advance!

                                  Comment

                                  • retiredcaps
                                    Badcaps Legend
                                    • Apr 2010
                                    • 9271

                                    #277
                                    Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                                    Originally posted by gkronome
                                    The same 6 caps as in most cases (C111, C112, C113, C114, C316 and C317 - see post #267 above from darael for example) in the power supply are puffy and I'm planning on replacing them. (They are all CapXon GL series caps, and the monitor is about 3 years old.)

                                    My only question at the moment: Is the Rubycon ZLH series O.K.
                                    If you read posts by regular members, you will find out

                                    1) members suggest replacing all the electrolytic capacitors except the largest one which rarely, but not never, fails.

                                    2) Capxon has a terrible reputation for quality. Thus, if 6 Capxon caps are dead, the others can't be far behind.

                                    3) PCBONEZ teaches people how to choose caps wrt to esr, ripple at

                                    https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...8&postcount=19

                                    4) In particular, from the above

                                    Capxon . GL 820 uF 25V 10mm ... Ripple= 1460 mA, ESR= .043 ohms

                                    5) Now look at the ZLH datasheet at

                                    https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...d7b9ce5b39.pdf

                                    you will find

                                    Rubycon ZLH 820uf 25V 10mm ripple = 1960, ESR = 0.060 ohms

                                    so ZLH has more ESR (.060 vs 0.43). That tells you that ZLH is not a suitable replacement.

                                    6) If you want something that matches Capxon GL almost exactly, the Panasonic FC 820uF 25V 10mm cap has ripple = 1440, ESR = 0.045 ohms as per

                                    http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P11221-ND

                                    7) If want more ripple and less ESR than the Capxon GL, then use Panasonic FR



                                    Panasonic FR 820uF 25V 10mm, ripple = 2180, ESR = 0.020 ohms
                                    --- begin sig file ---

                                    If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.

                                    We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

                                    Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

                                    --- end sig file ---

                                    Comment

                                    • gkronome
                                      New Member
                                      • Sep 2011
                                      • 5

                                      #278
                                      Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                                      Originally posted by retiredcaps
                                      If you read posts by regular members, you will find out

                                      1) members suggest replacing all the electrolytic capacitors except the largest one which rarely, but not never, fails.

                                      2) Capxon has a terrible reputation for quality. Thus, if 6 Capxon caps are dead, the others can't be far behind.

                                      3) PCBONEZ teaches people how to choose caps wrt to esr, ripple at

                                      https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo... postcount=19
                                      ...
                                      Thank you very much for the advice and the link. Fortunately I haven't ordered the new caps yet . It'll probably be Panasonic FR-series then (after cross-checking specs with the originals), and all caps will be replaced except the big one.

                                      Will be back when I have more news... Thanks again!

                                      Comment

                                      • gkronome
                                        New Member
                                        • Sep 2011
                                        • 5

                                        #279
                                        Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                                        Hello again!

                                        Sorry, but I have no proper equipment to make quality photos.
                                        Anyway, looked up all the specs of the caps to be replaced:
                                        C111,C112,C114,C316,C317 : CapXon GL 820uF 25V 10x20 - Ripple: 1560mA @100kHz, ESR: 0.043 Ohm
                                        C113 : CapXon GL 330uF 25V 10x12.5 - Ripple: 720mA @100kHz, ESR: 0.082Ohm
                                        C118 : CapXon GL 2.2uF 50V 5x11 - Ripple: 33mA @100kHz, ESR: 2.6Ohm
                                        C318 : CapXon GL 22uF 50V 6.3x11 - Ripple: 135mA @100kHz, ESR: 1 Ohm
                                        C107 : CapXon KM 47uF 50V 6.3x11 - Ripple: 115mA @120 Hz!, ESR: ??? (general purpose cap)

                                        and after looking around at Farnell, came up with the following possible (orderable) replacements:
                                        C111,C112,C114,C316,C317 : PANASONIC EEUFR1E821
                                        C113 : PANASONIC EEUFR1E331 (so far, just as retiredcaps advised...)
                                        C118 : RUBYCON 50RX302R2M8X11.5
                                        C318 : RUBYCON 50RX3022M8X11.5
                                        C107 : RUBYCON 50RX3047M8X11.5
                                        (specs for the last three @ https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...b5c4dc5986.pdf)

                                        Basically now I'm asking if the Rubycon RX30 series is O.K. for C118, C318 and C107?

                                        I'm leaning towards these because they seem to have a longer than average life expentancy and good temperature tolerance. Their ripple current and ESR ratings should be O.K. (or else I completely misunderstood something). The few things that still worry me a bit about them:

                                        - the chosen RX30 caps all have a lead spacing of 3.5 mm, while on the board the thru-holes are 5mm from each other for all caps. Clearly they will not 'sit tight' on the board (but then, neither did the originals). Can this be a problem? Is there something to take extra care of while soldering?
                                        - The original C107 was a general purpose cap (ESR unknown), the replacement is low-ESR, and I recall that sometimes too low an ESR may turn out bad. Can this be the case here?
                                        Last edited by gkronome; 10-07-2011, 02:16 AM.

                                        Comment

                                        • retiredcaps
                                          Badcaps Legend
                                          • Apr 2010
                                          • 9271

                                          #280
                                          Re: Samsung SyncMaster 226BW

                                          Originally posted by gkronome
                                          Basically now I'm asking if the Rubycon RX30 series is O.K. for C118, C318 and C107?
                                          Yes. See C107 at bottom.

                                          The few things that still worry me a bit about them:

                                          - the chosen RX30 caps all have a lead spacing of 3.5 mm, while on the board the thru-holes are 5mm from each other for all caps. Clearly they will not 'sit tight' on the board (but then, neither did the originals). Can this be a problem?
                                          As long as you don't pull hard from the bottom, it should be fine. I don't think you will find too many caps with 5mm spacing in the 2.2/22uF 50V specs.

                                          - The original C107 was a general purpose cap (ESR unknown), the replacement is low-ESR, and I recall that sometimes too low an ESR may turn out bad. Can this be the case here?
                                          See

                                          https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...39&postcount=2

                                          Use Panasonic FC for Capxon KM series.
                                          --- begin sig file ---

                                          If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.

                                          We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

                                          Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

                                          --- end sig file ---

                                          Comment

                                          Related Topics

                                          Collapse

                                          • soopacrucial
                                            Samsung Syncmaster 740BF repair
                                            by soopacrucial
                                            Hi folks,

                                            I'm new here and was wondering whether you might be kind enough to give me some advice on troubleshooting the following problem:

                                            Quite a few years ago now, a couple of years from new, my Samsung Syncmaster 740BF LCD monitor starting playing up by making a buzzing noise and then the display would go blank. I seem to remember the blue power led would also go off when this happened but that I'm not 100% sure of. By pressing the power button I do remember I could at first get it working again but eventually the problem would come back. At the time I had read about...
                                            10-29-2024, 02:40 PM
                                          • rattlesnake
                                            Samsung SyncMaster 955DF dim image fix
                                            by rattlesnake
                                            This display looks a bit dim but the image is otherwise fine. I already set the contrast to 100 and the brightness to 50 (more than that is counterproductive, it becomes hazy).

                                            To enable extra tuning, I have to enable the "Highlight Zone" function and stretch it to full screen. That way it looks really bright/intense and really good! I wish I could set it permanently like this, but as soon as you change the display mode/resolution or you turn the monitor off, you lose the "Highlight zone" config and you have to manuallly activate it again. Also, the manual says...
                                            08-12-2023, 07:03 PM
                                          • vincentedel
                                            Samsung SyncMaster 740n Phase Control Issue
                                            by vincentedel
                                            Hello,
                                            I'm having an issue with the Samsung 740n's phase control setting. When I use the automatic adjustment, it sets the value to around 54 (with a range of 0-100), and the picture looks clear and sharp. However, after some timeβ€”like after playing a gameβ€”the text starts to look blurry. When I auto-adjust again, it may increase the value to 80, and everything becomes sharp once more. Yet, after a while, whether it's a few hours or a day later, the same blurriness returns, and I have to adjust it again.

                                            I'm using the Samsung 740n monitor drivers instead of the default plug-and-play...
                                            04-22-2025, 12:33 AM
                                          • Kyrtapy
                                            Syncmaster T220 flashing on and off
                                            by Kyrtapy
                                            Hi, my monitor started having an issue. While there is a vga or dvi cable connected to the monitor, the screen flashes on and off. If there is no cable connected, it shows the no signal warning without any issues.

                                            I tried different cables and nothing helped. I also tried using different monitor with my pc and the monitor was working normal so my computer is not the issue.

                                            Last year I replaced two of the capacitors because they were leaking and the monitor was having trouble starting up and it fixed the problem, but now, no leaking capacitors on the PCBs.

                                            ...
                                            12-24-2024, 12:21 PM
                                          • nh2
                                            Samsung SyncMaster 215TW buzzing / lightning in power board socket
                                            by nh2
                                            This is my first post here. I just fixed my first 2 broken displays by replacing broken capacitors (Samsung SyncMaster 226BW, and Samsung SyncMaster 213T). But I have a third one I'm unable to fix, and am eager to fix as well:

                                            My Samsung SyncMaster 215TW makes a buzzing / hissing sound when turned on.

                                            The sound is louder the brighter the monitor is, e.g. in the "Game" preset is is even louder than in a softer preset.

                                            Opening up the monitor and unplugging the small socket cables that run from the power board to the LCD, I can see a small blue...
                                            08-31-2021, 02:23 AM
                                          • Loading...
                                          • No more items.
                                          Working...