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Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

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    #21
    Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

    Originally posted by Kostamojen View Post
    Sorry for being such a noob. I'm very interested in learning how to do this, and you're help is much appreciated. Thanks again.
    At this point you assemble the monitor and try it out. In some cases, not all voltages will come up without the logic board connected. Testing the voltages is not required in this case. Unless you haven't done any obvious mistakes (caps in backwards, lower voltage caps on higher voltage rail), it should be good to go.
    Originally posted by PeteS in CA
    Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
    A working TV? How boring!

    Comment


      #22
      Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

      While the burst capacitors are an obvious problem, that it failed (somewhat) concurrent to a power outage suggests there might have been a power surge that potentially fried the logic board. Because you have had the lights flicker, there is no doubt the fuse isn't (or at least wasn't at the time) blown.

      Comment


        #23
        Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

        Finally had some time to hit this thing with the multimeter. Only one cap indicated a possible short (>3 ohms). It's the 220uf 25v cap at CE109? I also just remembered that this is where my hand slipped and the solder tip dragged across a couple circuits. It looked superficial to me, I hope I didn't kill the board. I'm posting a picture of the area so you can look at it. It looks like a faint white line. Please tell me i don't destroy it.
        Attached Files

        Comment


          #24
          Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

          Originally posted by Kostamojen View Post
          Finally had some time to hit this thing with the multimeter. Only one cap indicated a possible short (>3 ohms). It's the 220uf 25v cap at CE109? I also just remembered that this is where my hand slipped and the solder tip dragged across a couple circuits. It looked superficial to me, I hope I didn't kill the board. I'm posting a picture of the area so you can look at it. It looks like a faint white line. Please tell me i don't destroy it.
          It's not destroyed.

          Was that a typo? You indicated you measured greater than 3 ohms. Did you mean < (less than) 3 ohms? A reading of under 3 ohms definitely indicates a problem.

          PlainBill
          For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

          Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

          Comment


            #25
            Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

            Originally posted by PlainBill View Post
            It's not destroyed.

            Was that a typo? You indicated you measured greater than 3 ohms. Did you mean < (less than) 3 ohms? A reading of under 3 ohms definitely indicates a problem.

            PlainBill
            Maybe I'm doing the measuring wrong. Do I touch the black and red leads to the cap leads sticking out the bottom of the board? How do the polarities on the mm leads need to match up to +/- leads of the cap? Please be specific as I'm pretty new to this. Thanks.

            Comment


              #26
              Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

              Originally posted by Kostamojen View Post
              Maybe I'm doing the measuring wrong. Do I touch the black and red leads to the cap leads sticking out the bottom of the board?
              All caps in a monitor (except the big cap after the mains side rectifier) are going to have their negative side at case ground potential. Just find a ground (metallic ring on screw hole = good idea) and use an alligator clip for the black probe on your multimeter. Then just use the red lead to probe the positive leads of the caps. It's a lot easier handling one probe than it is two.
              Originally posted by PeteS in CA
              Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
              A working TV? How boring!

              Comment


                #27
                Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                I thought I might have a difficult time describing the readings I'm getting (since I myself don't really know what I'm looking at). So I've taken some photos of the test results. Hopefully you can interpret the results for me.

                The first photo was taken with the MM in it's default state (only the ground probe connected). Each consecutive photo shows the MM reading with the positive (red) probe touching the positive lead of each of the new caps.

                I got different results from different caps, so I'm guessing there is a problems somewhere, just that I don't know how to interpret where the problem is.

                Thanks again.
                Attached Files

                Comment


                  #28
                  Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                  That's an analog meter you have there (and a cheap one at that). Are you sure it is in good working order? Soldering looks clean, there could be something else affecting the readings. If you are positive there are no solder bridges and no reversed caps plug it in and try it out. It won't blow up anyway. If it works, then you need a new meter.
                  Originally posted by PeteS in CA
                  Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
                  A working TV? How boring!

                  Comment


                    #29
                    Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                    Originally posted by Th3_uN1Qu3 View Post
                    That's an analog meter you have there (and a cheap one at that). Are you sure it is in good working order? Soldering looks clean, there could be something else affecting the readings. If you are positive there are no solder bridges and no reversed caps plug it in and try it out. It won't blow up anyway. If it works, then you need a new meter.
                    I tried powering up the monitor after replacing the caps, and I got no power lights or screen power (see my first post from June 25, 2011). That's why I'm trying to troubleshoot the board. I'm assuming that I messed something up while doing the repair (created a short, or something). It appears that the only caps that are showing a reading above 0 ohms are CE108 and CE109. would that tell you anything? or do I need to go pickup a new digital multimeter?

                    Comment


                      #30
                      Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                      Originally posted by Kostamojen View Post
                      I thought I might have a difficult time describing the readings I'm getting (since I myself don't really know what I'm looking at). So I've taken some photos of the test results. Hopefully you can interpret the results for me.

                      The first photo was taken with the MM in it's default state (only the ground probe connected). Each consecutive photo shows the MM reading with the positive (red) probe touching the positive lead of each of the new caps.

                      I got different results from different caps, so I'm guessing there is a problems somewhere, just that I don't know how to interpret where the problem is.

                      Thanks again.
                      There are a couple of things going on here. Most of them are easily solvable.

                      First, you are on the X10 scale. That means you take the reading on the top (green) scale and multiply it by 10. So while the first reading showed .8, it actually is reading 8 ohms. That is low, but because of other factors, I will call it an alert - something to be investigated - not necessarily a cause for alarm.

                      Next, the meter must be properly zeroed. The first photo shows a label 'Ohms Adjust', and what appears to be a button on the side of the meter. You must clip the leads to the same point, then adjust the meter so the needle is exactly on 0 on the ohms scale (the green scale).

                      Another point - a VOM uses a much higher voltage (typically a 1.5 volt battery) to measure resistance than a DMM (typically less than .2 volts), so it will cause diodes and transistors to conduct, throwing off the reading. More on this later.

                      Lastly, the ohms scale is a reverse scale. This can cause confusion when making readings. In the first reading (second picture) the needle is between .7 and .8, so the actual resistance is about 7.7 ohms.

                      The capacitors are large enough that the VOM may take an appreciable time to charge them. If the needle appears to be drifting, wait until it either stabilizes, or drifts into the good (to the left of 20) area.

                      These are not insurmountable problems. Electronics technicians used VOMs to test solid state equipment for decades before DMMs became available at reasonable prices. All you have to do is apply a few tricks.

                      1. Leave the meter on the X10 scale. Ignore any reading where the needle is to the left of the 20 (greater than 200 ohms).

                      2. Adjust the meter properly for 0 ohms

                      3. You can take pictures if you wish, or just write down the resistance, or just write down the needle position and multiply later.

                      4. Any readings below 50 ohms should be investigated. To investigate, simply swap the leads - red to the ground point, black to the capacitor lead. If both readings match, it's a real resistance. If they don't, the higher resistance is the one to use.

                      PlainBill
                      Last edited by PlainBill; 06-30-2011, 04:02 PM.
                      For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                      Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                      Comment


                        #31
                        Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                        Bill, top notch help as always. Leaving this one to you.
                        Originally posted by PeteS in CA
                        Remember that by the time consequences of a short-sighted decision are experienced, the idiot who made the bad decision may have already been promoted or moved on to a better job at another company.
                        A working TV? How boring!

                        Comment


                          #32
                          Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                          Ran the test as laid out by PlainBill. I started by calibrating the MM, per instructions. The results are shown in the attached photos. One photo shows the results, the other photo shows the lettering key (NOTE: picture take prior to cap replacement, but the same lettering was used).

                          Ohms readings under 50 were investigated, however, only one time did the two readings match (at 0 ohms for cap "I"). In all other cases, the needle stayed at the far left side or would briefly pop to the 200-40 ohms range, then return to the far left side.

                          What do you think PlainBill? Any conclusions?
                          Attached Files

                          Comment


                            #33
                            Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                            GOOD NEWS! during my last inspection of the circuit board, I noticed a solder bridge near the capacitor labeled "I" (the one that was obviously shorted). After removing the solder bridge, the short is gone. I re-assembled the monitor and now get power light indicators (blue when a PC is connected, orange sleep-mode when no PC is connected). However, there is no picture. I shined a flashlight on the screen, and can see a ghost image of the signal being sent from the PC.

                            Comment


                              #34
                              Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                              Check the Glass fuse next to the "I" capacitor.
                              Whatever I do, I consider it a success, if in the end I am breathing, seeing, feeling and hearing!

                              Comment


                                #35
                                Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                                Originally posted by alexanna View Post
                                Check the Glass fuse next to the "I" capacitor.
                                When I test the fuse in question, the ohms shoots to 0 briefly, then drops to the left side of the meter.

                                Comment


                                  #36
                                  Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                                  A good fuse will show a short,0 ohms.
                                  Test like you checked the capacitors, try reversing the leads of the ohmmeter
                                  Whatever I do, I consider it a success, if in the end I am breathing, seeing, feeling and hearing!

                                  Comment


                                    #37
                                    Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                                    the fuse does NOT show a short in either polarity direction. Sounds like a bad fuse? Where can i find a replacement? and do you have to de-solder the fuse to remove it?
                                    Last edited by Kostamojen; 06-30-2011, 07:35 PM. Reason: clarification

                                    Comment


                                      #38
                                      Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                                      Th3_uN1Qu3, alexanna, Kostamojen, you guys ROCK!!! I go out running a few errands, got a fender dented in a parking lot, and came back home to find the problem has (mostly) been solved.

                                      Kostamojen, good work!!

                                      PlainBill
                                      For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                                      Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                                      Comment


                                        #39
                                        Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                                        Originally posted by PlainBill View Post
                                        Th3_uN1Qu3, alexanna, Kostamojen, you guys ROCK!!! I go out running a few errands, got a fender dented in a parking lot, and came back home to find the problem has (mostly) been solved.

                                        Kostamojen, good work!!

                                        PlainBill
                                        PlainBill, your help has been invaluable! Thanks so much! But, I'm still looking for a solution to this fuse. Do you have to de-solder to remove the old one? and any suggestions for finding a replacement?

                                        Comment


                                          #40
                                          Re: Troubleshooting Viewsonic vx2235wm

                                          Originally posted by Kostamojen View Post
                                          PlainBill, your help has been invaluable! Thanks so much! But, I'm still looking for a solution to this fuse. Do you have to de-solder to remove the old one? and any suggestions for finding a replacement?
                                          It's a pigtail fuse, I'm guessing somewhere in the 2A - 4A range. You may be able to read teh current rating on the end caps. Some monitors us a picofuse in this application, others use a surface mount fuse. A fuse and fuseholder from Radio Shack would even work.

                                          Before replacing the fuses, check the inverter drivers to make sure they aren't shorted. If nobody jumps in with directions, I'll do it tomorrow. I can't keep my eyes open.

                                          PlainBill
                                          For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

                                          Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

                                          Comment

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