Re: Dell E172fpb
budm,
I checked them as I noted, seeing a bit of movement on a DMM or VOM, and no short. As long as I don't put the inverter and logic into the metal cage and tighten down all the screws, it works.
If the 0.15uf caps were bad, wouldn't they kill the board output, and mess up the transformers output in or out of the metal shield/cage?
tom
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Re: Dell E172fpb
Originally posted by tmwalsh View Postp.s. Of the 4 c507's, one seemed weak,
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Re: Dell E172fpb
I did check with a DMM, and got 'instantaneous' readings that quickly went to zero, making the assumption they are not shorted, and do have capacitance.
As noted, it came to life once 'out of the box', and I am now in the process of putting it back together piece by piece to see when it 'stops'. It displays the 'self check' floating display after I slid the CCFLS back into their slot and re-energized...
The board looks like your photobucket shots, but none of the caps or transistors have red racing stripes...
tom
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Re: Dell E172fpb
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=DSC02365.jpg
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...t=DSC02355.jpg
Did you check those 4 caps (0.15uF)?
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Re: Dell E172fpb
I re-soldered all the leads on the solder side even though they looked fine. Given that, I also re-flowed all the leads on the transformers where the windings terminated.
I don't have a cap tester, but did check ESR and for a tiny reading for a flash of time on a DMM, and slight deflection on an analog VOM. All seemed good.
Everything is now out of the case, and lying on cardboard. Of course, it lit right up, and is glowing even as I type. Moving my hand over the whole megilla, feeling for hot spots, nothing is particularly hot. The smoke has not escaped as of yet...
The ten pin connector between the power/inverter board and the logic board is not tight, but doesn't complain when wiggled. pics to follow if I can figure out how.
tom
p.s. Of the 4 c507's, one seemed weak, the others OK, fuse OK. The sheet metal slide cover was not installed as I found it. It shields the wires from the inverter to the CCFLs. Could it be causing the inverter to balk?Last edited by tmwalsh; 07-19-2012, 02:39 PM.
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Re: Dell E172fpb
Service manual for 173FP - maybe same?
http://www.tgohome.com/ServiceManual...&Search=Submit
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Re: Dell E172fpb
Also check the tuning caps (0.22~.33uF 250V) by the inverter transformers, if the tunung caps are bad or off value, they will take out your new transistors. Please post the pictures of the board.
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Re: Dell E172fpb
You say you looked at the transformer leads, but did you actually resolder them?
Also, try reseating all the connectors.
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Re: Dell E172fpb
I can't believe I read the whole thing. But I did. My brother sent me his E172FPb, which died unexpectedly one morning.
It has an almost invisible quick flash, a blink if you will, of the CCFL, and the on/off button was flashing.
I confidently replaced the C5707's, and flipped the board expecting to see ring around the transformer leads. No such luck. I read the 'trouble shooting' guide, and printed out a copy of version 3, IIRC. The fuse checked ok, and the two 9024's when measured in circuit showed nothing when checked, reading OL in the display for every combination of lead checking.
I removed all electrolytics, and tested ESR using a Blue. All were better than specified by the resistance table for capacitance and voltage. I decided to replace the 9024's and did so. I laid the gizzards flat on cardboard, and connected the CCFL's to the outputs, and held my breath and plugged it in. The CCFL's lit up as if they were happy to be alive. I turned the machine off using the button, and then re-powered it and they came on again. Viola, all is well.
NOT.
Put the bulbs back in the display, re-connected everything, put all the covers on, connected to a PC, connected to power, and now I get a quick flash when I press the power button, and then back to black.
Waaaahhhhh. What now? I've taken the covers off, and am going to look for a connection that gets made/broken when the unit is assembled, or for contact with the metal case, or ..? First test will be to see if things get hot, and to see if it will light up with the bulbs again removed from the display, and laid out on cardboard.
Any suggestions? I've burned my finger on the solder-sucker soldering iron enough times that I don't want to go through that any more. Where do I look?
tom
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Re: Dell E172fpb
Originally posted by CaptHwdy View Poston mine the screen will flash a sec then the green power light will blink green and the screen will stay black. is this the same as other's?
PlainBill
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Re: Dell E172fpb
on mine the screen will flash a sec then the green power light will blink green and the screen will stay black. is this the same as other's?
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Re: Dell E172fpb
Originally posted by Jack Crow View PostAll,
I know subing in parts is not always an ideal solution.
On the other hand, if the OEM units were any good this monitor would not be here.
Keep it safe
Jack Crow
I just did the economics of your repair. The proper 2SC5707 transistors are available on eBay. The beat deal was 20 for $4.00 with free shipping. No driving to the store, spending $3.38 + tax for the wrong parts, no cutting, no listening to someone rant about sloppy technique.
PlainBill
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Re: Dell E172fpb
All,
I know subing in parts is not always an ideal solution.
On the other hand, if the OEM units were any good this monitor would not be here.
We see so much stuff that is designed to fail after the warrenty expires.
Anyhow, the unit is still cranking after 20 hours and has not failed yet.
Most likely I won't get back to it until some time in the late afternoon.
Do remember this one is learning tool for me.
I do not usually work on flat screens.
Serial number one if you get my drift.
So expect errors.
Fortunatly they don't cost much.
Lets see what happens.
If I crack it open again, this time with better tools, I will photograph the parts transplant and the metal work cuts I made.
It's warm, the non contact IR thermometer says 107 at the hottest spot.
It's a few degrees hotter than this HP display in my computer rack. (95)
Keep it safe
Jack Crow
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Re: Dell E172fpb
As retiredcaps said, I use guitar picks. You can get a dozen for about $5 at wally world. That way you can leave them in place so the case doesn't latch together as you are splitting it somewhere else.
One thing to be careful of is making substitutions for components. If you aren't sure of what parameters are critical you can waste a lot of time. In the case of this monitor the failure was not due to a part that was not capable of handling the load, it was due to bad solder joints on the transformer. The correct parts are available quite cheaply on eBay.
PlainBill
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Re: Dell E172fpb
Originally posted by Jack Crow View PostOne of the four transistors was short city.
Since Im broke and did not want to wait for a mail order, I subed in four TIP31's.
Your repair does prove that the transistor was the failed part, but unless you want to revisit in reasonably short order I would recommend always using the 2SC5707 in these repairs.
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Re: Dell E172fpb
I think there was some lengthy thread on another site where someone was using a TIP3055/MJE3055 transistor as a substitute for the 2sc5707. As mentioned earlier on this thread, the hfe was not satisfactory and the 3055 would overheat and short out. Nice to know that the TIP31 seems to be working and is available at Radio Shack. It's a T-220 case, which still makes it difficult to fit in without doing some mods to the metal enclosure. Yes, a photo of your mod would have been nice.
As for opening the enclosure, I used a stiff putty knife with a beveled edge to pry open a corner enough to fit in an old gift or credit card (preferred because they are thicker plastic). As retiredcaps mentioned, those free plastic cards are too thin and bend too easily. However, I have found that if you fold them in half, it makes them stiffer and they're good for a one time use. The butterknife will work, but make sure you take it easy when you get near the pushbutton board because the wiring for that board and the board itself are easily damaged.... speaking from experience.Last edited by jetadm123; 02-03-2012, 07:00 PM.
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Re: Dell E172fpb
Originally posted by Jack Crow View PostRC,
That is clever. Was thinking of tools that guys who fix dry wall use but a bit more flex.
For my first monitor repair, I tried those annoying junk mail credit cards. Terrible. Then I switched to butter knives and had more success. Once you get the hang of it and know how much pressure to apply, it is pretty quick going.
It is almost certain that you will break at least one of the tabs opening up these snap-on monitors. I think I might have opened up one without breaking a tab.
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Re: Dell E172fpb
RC,
That is clever. Was thinking of tools that guys who fix dry wall use but a bit more flex.
Thanks for the tip.
The unit is still cranking next to the elbow.
I am now kicking my self for not taking some photos.
If I crack it open again, I will take some pix.
So let's see how this shakes out.
Jack Crow
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Re: Dell E172fpb
Originally posted by Jack Crow View PostThe second biggest problem was removing the plastic case. What a pain.
Need to make some tools for that.
Feel free to comment, I learn from this kind of thing.
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Re: Dell E172fpb
Hi all,
An amazing amount of data on this unit.
Long story made short.
I got one of these dead from a client who did not simply want to toss it out.
So it's a learning experience that won't cost much.
I have considerable experience in CRT monitors, but this is my very first flat screen.
Looked it up on the web and found a quick fix article that seemed to apply to this monitor.
One of the four transistors was short city.
Since Im broke and did not want to wait for a mail order, I subed in four TIP31's.
Had to remove some metal work to make it all fit.
Remember this is a learning tool, not a real client repair.
So if I kill it no loss.
The big caps looked ok, the 1uF's were garbage but did not change them as of yet.
Anyhow, it's been running for 4.5 hours so far on the test pattern generator.
That smell when electronics has been over taxed, I am NOT getting.
This monitor is generating a normal amount of warm.
No hot spots over where the transistors went in.
The second biggest problem was removing the plastic case. What a pain.
Need to make some tools for that.
If it's still running on saturday morning, I will call it done.
Feel free to comment, I learn from this kind of thing.
Be well all.
Jack Crow
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