E173FPc - recapping question

Collapse
X
Collapse
+ More Options
Posts
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • tmcw
    Badcaps Veteran
    • Oct 2010
    • 382
    • Ireland

    #1

    E173FPc - recapping question

    Have one of these monitors that goes through an endless cycle of trying to come on, but shuts down (I see a brief flash on the screen).

    One of the caps is visibly bulging (one of the 1000uF caps).

    I found a repair guide elsewhere, and it goes through the process of taking the monitor apart, and which caps to replace (http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php...173fpc-repair/).

    My question relates to the 150uF caps that are on my board (C201 and C203). The repair article says to put in 220uF caps, and the first 3 comments relate to this difference.

    Is it ok to just pull the 2 150uF caps on mine and replace with 220uF ones?

    Also, I'm new to recapping, and wondering about the temperature rating of caps to be getting for replacing. Is 105 C usually enough for these replacements, or are 130 C ones better, recommended? I've seen comments before about which brands are generally good, but not about the temperature rating.
  • PlainBill
    Badcaps Legend
    • Feb 2009
    • 7034
    • USA

    #2
    Re: E173FPc - recapping question

    Originally posted by tmcw
    Have one of these monitors that goes through an endless cycle of trying to come on, but shuts down (I see a brief flash on the screen).

    One of the caps is visibly bulging (one of the 1000uF caps).

    I found a repair guide elsewhere, and it goes through the process of taking the monitor apart, and which caps to replace (http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php...173fpc-repair/).

    My question relates to the 150uF caps that are on my board (C201 and C203). The repair article says to put in 220uF caps, and the first 3 comments relate to this difference.

    Is it ok to just pull the 2 150uF caps on mine and replace with 220uF ones?

    Also, I'm new to recapping, and wondering about the temperature rating of caps to be getting for replacing. Is 105 C usually enough for these replacements, or are 130 C ones better, recommended? I've seen comments before about which brands are generally good, but not about the temperature rating.
    Going with a higher temperature cap probably won't help much. The caps don't die because they are overheated, they die because they were junk when new and didn't improve with age.

    I see no point in increasing the value of the caps, and many reasons for not doing it. Again, the problem is not that the caps were of marginal capacitance; the problem was they were poorly made.

    Both brand and series are important. Panasonic FM will outlast Lelon RXA, The Lelon RXA might actually outlast a Panasonic SU series.

    PlainBill
    For a number of reasons, both health and personal, I will no longer be active on this board. Any PMs asking for assistance will be ignored.

    Never be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the ark. Professionals built the Titanic.

    Comment

    • jetadm123
      Badcaps Legend
      • Feb 2010
      • 2169

      #3
      Re: E173FPc - recapping question

      Stick with the original values. I suspect the 220uf was used because it's a more "standard" value and more easily found than a 150uf. Digikey.com has a Nichicon PW series at 150uf 25V, part # 493-1822-ND. Make sure to compare diameter, height and voltage against your existing cap. 105 deg C is pretty much the standard for your application. You can go a higher voltage on the cap, if the voltage you're looking for is not available.
      Last edited by jetadm123; 11-16-2010, 11:07 AM.

      Comment

      • retiredcaps
        Badcaps Legend
        • Apr 2010
        • 9271

        #4
        Re: E173FPc - recapping question

        Originally posted by jetadm123
        Digikey.com has a Nichicon PW series at 150uf 25V, part # 493-1822-ND.
        Mouser carries the new Panasonic FR (low ESR) series, 667-EEU-FR1E151, in 150uF 25V. Shipping from mouser is higher than Digikey.
        --- begin sig file ---

        If you are new to this forum, we can help a lot more if you please post clear focused pictures (max resolution 2000x2000 and 2MB) of your boards using the manage attachments button so they are hosted here. Information and picture clarity compositions should look like this post.

        We respectfully ask that you make some time and effort to read some of the guides available for basic troubleshooting. After you have read through them, then ask clarification questions or report your findings.

        Please do not post inline and offsite as they slow down the loading of pages.

        --- end sig file ---

        Comment

        • tmcw
          Badcaps Veteran
          • Oct 2010
          • 382
          • Ireland

          #5
          Re: E173FPc - recapping question

          Thanks for the replies.

          I finally got around to doing this today with 2 of these monitors.

          I followed one guide I found link, and it said to change just 2 pairs of capacitors, the C922/C923 pair and the C924/C925 pair. So I did that, and both monitors are now working.

          There is however a problem with the brightness control.

          When I push the button to invoke the brightness/contrast menu, the menu comes up, and the panel buttons all work, that is, navigating up/down, and selecting, and changing the value (0-100) for the contrast works fine. The brightness however doesn't change when I have it selected, and change to any value between 0-100.

          The brightness is at a good level though, so I'm nearly there. But it would be good to get full functionality from the monitor.

          Is this issue related to the fact that I didn't change the other capacitor pair, the C201/C203 pair?

          Or is it related to maybe the video board?

          Or could it be related to the pink/white and blue/white plugs inserted into the wrong connectors?

          Comment

          • alexanna
            Member
            • Mar 2010
            • 1346

            #6
            Re: E173FPc - recapping question

            I think the Dell monitors have brightness controlled by the + AND - Buttons on the panel switches.I don"t think there is a need to go into the menu.
            Al.
            Whatever I do, I consider it a success, if in the end I am breathing, seeing, feeling and hearing!

            Comment

            • tmcw
              Badcaps Veteran
              • Oct 2010
              • 382
              • Ireland

              #7
              Re: E173FPc - recapping question

              I know what your saying, but I am doing it right.

              The monitor has 4 buttons on the front, 3 functions and a power button.

              The first button (smooth) is the menu button, where you get language, osd, factory settings, etc.

              The second button (-) invokes the brightness and contrast menu.

              The third button (+) allows an auto-adjust.

              Once in a menu, you use (-) and (+) to move up/down, then the first button to make a selection, then once in a control (eg. brightness), you then use the (+) or (-) buttons to increment/decrement.

              Thanks anyway, made me go back and verify what I was doing.

              Comment

              • jetadm123
                Badcaps Legend
                • Feb 2010
                • 2169

                #8
                Re: E173FPc - recapping question

                Originally posted by tmcw
                Thanks for the replies.

                I finally got around to doing this today with 2 of these monitors.

                I followed one guide I found link, and it said to change just 2 pairs of capacitors, the C922/C923 pair and the C924/C925 pair. So I did that, and both monitors are now working.

                There is however a problem with the brightness control.

                When I push the button to invoke the brightness/contrast menu, the menu comes up, and the panel buttons all work, that is, navigating up/down, and selecting, and changing the value (0-100) for the contrast works fine. The brightness however doesn't change when I have it selected, and change to any value between 0-100.

                The brightness is at a good level though, so I'm nearly there. But it would be good to get full functionality from the monitor.

                Is this issue related to the fact that I didn't change the other capacitor pair, the C201/C203 pair?

                Or is it related to maybe the video board?

                Or could it be related to the pink/white and blue/white plugs inserted into the wrong connectors?
                If I read the ccla link correctly, it's c201 and c223 that are 150uf. From what you said, you only replaced 4 out of the 8 small electrolytic caps. As PlainBill mentioned earlier, these caps are of poor quality to begin with. So, I'm not really sure what you hoping to gain (maybe saving $2) by replacing only half the caps. You never know, one of the other four caps could be tied to the brightness circuit. Do yourself a favor, with the exception of the large 450V cap, replace the other 4 caps now or you'll probably have to open the monitor up again in 6 months to replace them anyway.
                Last edited by jetadm123; 12-18-2010, 02:41 PM.

                Comment

                • tmcw
                  Badcaps Veteran
                  • Oct 2010
                  • 382
                  • Ireland

                  #9
                  Re: E173FPc - recapping question

                  Originally posted by jetadm123
                  If I read the ccla link correctly, it's c201 and c223 that are 150uf. From what you said, you only replaced 4 out of the 8 small electrolytic caps. As PlainBill mentioned earlier, these caps are of poor quality to begin with. So, I'm not really sure what you hoping to gain (maybe saving $2) by replacing only half the caps. You never know, one of the other four caps could be tied to the brightness circuit. Do yourself a favor, with the exception of the large 450V cap, replace the other 4 caps now or you'll probably have to open the monitor up again in 6 months to replace them anyway.
                  Yes, thanks, I was thinking about that since I last posted. The other repair guide mentioned 6 different capacitors to replace, so I replaced the other 2 capacitors (C201 and C223), so I've replaced the 6 caps circled in yellow from that repair guide (photo LCD_8_11r.jpg), on one of the boards. I haven't replaced the other 2 capacitors, as I haven't seen it suggested anywhere to replace these as well. I've circled them in red in the photo. After replacing the other 2 capacitors (C201 and C223), there is no difference to the brightness *.

                  I'm trying to understand these circuits as I replace components, and hoping that I can get some guidance from the knowledgeable folk here to prod me in the right direction. At this point, I'm wondering how to determine whether replacing the upper red capacitor (C207) may have some bearing on the brightness circuit. I've attached a pdf of that circuit from the E173FP manual. It's linked to the short circuit protection pin on the TL1451ACDR.

                  Also to point out, on my board the C207 capacitor is 33uf/50v, whereas in the schematic, it's 4.7uf/16v. Is this significant? My board is also 1 revision up from the board on the schematic.

                  -------------------
                  * I should point out that when I had replaced the first 4 caps and tested the brightness, and wasn't seeing a change in the brightness, but the PC was running mediaportal at the time. When I went back to the desktop, and opened Windows Explorer (lots of white on the screen), I did notice a change in brightness when I adjusted from 0-100, but it wasn't much of a change, and certainly nowhere near as much as the difference I see when changing the brightness on 2 E173FPf's that I have here. The internals of these two monitors are quite different though, and probably not comparable. I probably need to see another E173FPc, and see how the brightness adjust behaves on that.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment

                  • jetadm123
                    Badcaps Legend
                    • Feb 2010
                    • 2169

                    #10
                    Re: E173FPc - recapping question

                    Originally posted by tmcw
                    Yes, thanks, I was thinking about that since I last posted. The other repair guide mentioned 6 different capacitors to replace, so I replaced the other 2 capacitors (C201 and C223), so I've replaced the 6 caps circled in yellow from that repair guide (photo LCD_8_11r.jpg), on one of the boards. I haven't replaced the other 2 capacitors, as I haven't seen it suggested anywhere to replace these as well. I've circled them in red in the photo. After replacing the other 2 capacitors (C201 and C223), there is no difference to the brightness *.

                    I'm trying to understand these circuits as I replace components, and hoping that I can get some guidance from the knowledgeable folk here to prod me in the right direction. At this point, I'm wondering how to determine whether replacing the upper red capacitor (C207) may have some bearing on the brightness circuit. I've attached a pdf of that circuit from the E173FP manual. It's linked to the short circuit protection pin on the TL1451ACDR.

                    Also to point out, on my board the C207 capacitor is 33uf/50v, whereas in the schematic, it's 4.7uf/16v. Is this significant? My board is also 1 revision up from the board on the schematic.

                    -------------------
                    * I should point out that when I had replaced the first 4 caps and tested the brightness, and wasn't seeing a change in the brightness, but the PC was running mediaportal at the time. When I went back to the desktop, and opened Windows Explorer (lots of white on the screen), I did notice a change in brightness when I adjusted from 0-100, but it wasn't much of a change, and certainly nowhere near as much as the difference I see when changing the brightness on 2 E173FPf's that I have here. The internals of these two monitors are quite different though, and probably not comparable. I probably need to see another E173FPc, and see how the brightness adjust behaves on that.

                    The schematic you've enclosed is somewhat of a "baseline" version for your monitor. Your monitor is a E173fpc, whereas, the schematic is for a E173fp. There were many different versions of the E173 series made and differences in capacitance values would not be unusual. Therefore, stay with the 33uf. From the spec sheet, it looks like C207 helps set the enable time for how the the TL1451 waits before shutting the system down when it sees a short. This cap should not affect brightness.

                    The other cap in red is a startup cap used with the 8-pin PWM chip below it. If it fails, then the power supply will not start. Also, replace it.

                    Comment

                    • PCBONEZ
                      Grumpy Old Fart
                      • Aug 2005
                      • 10661
                      • USA

                      #11
                      Re: E173FPc - recapping question

                      On the temp. - 105C is fine but don't use 85C.
                      Actual temp gets close to 85C so they don't last that long.
                      -
                      At the same actual operating temp a 105C 2000Hr rated cap will last 8x longer than a 85C 2000Hr rated cap.
                      [And no, the hours rating is not how long they last. It's how long they can be maxed out [abused] and -not- be damaged.]
                      .
                      Mann-Made Global Warming.
                      - We should be more concerned about the Intellectual Climate.

                      -
                      Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind.

                      - Dr Seuss
                      -
                      You can teach a man to fish and feed him for life, but if he can't handle sushi you must also teach him to cook.
                      -

                      Comment

                      Related Topics

                      Collapse

                      • momaka
                        Seasonic B12 BC-550 – barely 2 years old and with BAD CAPS already!
                        by momaka
                        I know I've been a little scarce lately (like the last 2-3 years), but I'm still here and still doing my thing with fixing PSUs.

                        For today's considerations, I have a Seasonic B12 BC-550 [A551bcafh] 550 Watt ATX power supply for you (click on links for full size images).

                        https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591771


                        https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=3591772

                        It's a modern ATX unit with fixed (non-modular) cables and an 80-plus bronze certificate. Here's the label:

                        https://www.badcaps.net/filedata/fetch?id=359177...
                        03-12-2025, 03:42 PM
                      • eryjus
                        Heathkit IO-4205 Power Supply Caps
                        by eryjus
                        Hello,

                        First, I am a complete noob with high voltage stuff. I'm learning, but I need help by someone looking over my shoulder.

                        I recently came into posession of a Heathkit IO-4205 5MHz Dual Trace Oscilloscope. The documentation is copyright 1978. I'm told it works.

                        I opened it up to check the caps before I applied power, and found the following black caps and wanted to know what they were. They are on the power supply board. I was able to read the name and model and came up with, "Nytronics 162J-1, 0.1uF, 20% tolerance, 2000VDC."
                        ...
                        05-10-2023, 11:21 AM
                      • Paxman_Swede
                        Identifying caps on an old Zoom 9000
                        by Paxman_Swede
                        Hello!

                        I have two projects on my work bench. One is a friends dead JBL Xtreme speaker with a blown voltage regulator and corresponding bulged and shorted cap. That cap has clear markings so I know what replacement I need for it.

                        The other project however is a whole different deal. It's a Zoom 9000 guitar effect from the 90th that has developed a devil hound howl when there is no input from the guitar. I'm guessing caps problem. So, since I don't really use this effect anymore I thought it would be a perfect project to learn on.

                        I have studied the board and...
                        01-14-2025, 09:51 AM
                      • captain150
                        Help with switching power supply caps
                        by captain150
                        I'm trying to repair two old VCRs, they both have bad caps. One has leaky ones, the other would barely run until I subbed in some caps from another power supply I had laying around (though they are the wrong values). This vcr works for an hour or two, but then the power supply starts whining and the picture gets lines in it. I didn't replace all the secondary caps, so another voltage might still be problematic, or the values I used are too far off.
                        I've been on mouser and digikey but the options are a bit overwhelming. I just need some new ones that will work. They don't need to be top quality,...
                        03-16-2025, 07:34 PM
                      • Foetuss
                        Gigabyte GA-6OXT :: caps question
                        by Foetuss
                        Good evening

                        I recently aquired a rev 1.1 Gigabyte 60XT, and was suprised of the amount of leaking caps for a motherboard of the P3 era. Especially the way the 330µf caps seems like the housing discolored even.
                        Now, there are some 3300µF 6.3V KZG series around the CPU. Would it be OK to replace them with something like EEUFR1A332 ? (Panasonic FR 3300µF 10V). Or was this board designed around very low ESR caps?

                        But I was also suprised about the bigger boys, which are 330µF 25V.
                        Could it be they used 25V caps because they were cheaper / available at that time?...
                        02-11-2025, 12:22 PM
                      • Loading...
                      • No more items.
                      Working...