E173FPc - recapping question

**PlainBill** · 11-16-2010, 09:36 AM

Re: E173FPc - recapping question

Originally posted by tmcw

Have one of these monitors that goes through an endless cycle of trying to come on, but shuts down (I see a brief flash on the screen).

One of the caps is visibly bulging (one of the 1000uF caps).

I found a repair guide elsewhere, and it goes through the process of taking the monitor apart, and which caps to replace (http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php...173fpc-repair/).

My question relates to the 150uF caps that are on my board (C201 and C203). The repair article says to put in 220uF caps, and the first 3 comments relate to this difference.

Is it ok to just pull the 2 150uF caps on mine and replace with 220uF ones?

Also, I'm new to recapping, and wondering about the temperature rating of caps to be getting for replacing. Is 105 C usually enough for these replacements, or are 130 C ones better, recommended? I've seen comments before about which brands are generally good, but not about the temperature rating.

Going with a higher temperature cap probably won't help much. The caps don't die because they are overheated, they die because they were junk when new and didn't improve with age.

I see no point in increasing the value of the caps, and many reasons for not doing it. Again, the problem is not that the caps were of marginal capacitance; the problem was they were poorly made.

Both brand and series are important. Panasonic FM will outlast Lelon RXA, The Lelon RXA might actually outlast a Panasonic SU series.

PlainBill

**jetadm123** · 11-16-2010, 11:03 AM

Re: E173FPc - recapping question

Stick with the original values. I suspect the 220uf was used because it's a more "standard" value and more easily found than a 150uf. Digikey.com has a Nichicon PW series at 150uf 25V, part # 493-1822-ND. Make sure to compare diameter, height and voltage against your existing cap. 105 deg C is pretty much the standard for your application. You can go a higher voltage on the cap, if the voltage you're looking for is not available.

**retiredcaps** · 11-16-2010, 12:15 PM

Re: E173FPc - recapping question

Originally posted by jetadm123

Digikey.com has a Nichicon PW series at 150uf 25V, part # 493-1822-ND.

Mouser carries the new Panasonic FR (low ESR) series, 667-EEU-FR1E151, in 150uF 25V. Shipping from mouser is higher than Digikey.

**tmcw** · 12-18-2010, 01:18 PM

Re: E173FPc - recapping question

Thanks for the replies.

I finally got around to doing this today with 2 of these monitors.

I followed one guide I found link, and it said to change just 2 pairs of capacitors, the C922/C923 pair and the C924/C925 pair. So I did that, and both monitors are now working.

There is however a problem with the brightness control.

When I push the button to invoke the brightness/contrast menu, the menu comes up, and the panel buttons all work, that is, navigating up/down, and selecting, and changing the value (0-100) for the contrast works fine. The brightness however doesn't change when I have it selected, and change to any value between 0-100.

The brightness is at a good level though, so I'm nearly there. But it would be good to get full functionality from the monitor.

Is this issue related to the fact that I didn't change the other capacitor pair, the C201/C203 pair?

Or is it related to maybe the video board?

Or could it be related to the pink/white and blue/white plugs inserted into the wrong connectors?

**alexanna** · 12-18-2010, 01:27 PM

Re: E173FPc - recapping question

I think the Dell monitors have brightness controlled by the + AND - Buttons on the panel switches.I don"t think there is a need to go into the menu.
Al.

**tmcw** · 12-18-2010, 01:34 PM

Re: E173FPc - recapping question

I know what your saying, but I am doing it right.

The monitor has 4 buttons on the front, 3 functions and a power button.

The first button (smooth) is the menu button, where you get language, osd, factory settings, etc.

The second button (-) invokes the brightness and contrast menu.

The third button (+) allows an auto-adjust.

Once in a menu, you use (-) and (+) to move up/down, then the first button to make a selection, then once in a control (eg. brightness), you then use the (+) or (-) buttons to increment/decrement.

Thanks anyway, made me go back and verify what I was doing.

**jetadm123** · 12-18-2010, 02:37 PM

Re: E173FPc - recapping question

Originally posted by tmcw

Thanks for the replies.

I finally got around to doing this today with 2 of these monitors.

I followed one guide I found link, and it said to change just 2 pairs of capacitors, the C922/C923 pair and the C924/C925 pair. So I did that, and both monitors are now working.

There is however a problem with the brightness control.

When I push the button to invoke the brightness/contrast menu, the menu comes up, and the panel buttons all work, that is, navigating up/down, and selecting, and changing the value (0-100) for the contrast works fine. The brightness however doesn't change when I have it selected, and change to any value between 0-100.

The brightness is at a good level though, so I'm nearly there. But it would be good to get full functionality from the monitor.

Is this issue related to the fact that I didn't change the other capacitor pair, the C201/C203 pair?

Or is it related to maybe the video board?

Or could it be related to the pink/white and blue/white plugs inserted into the wrong connectors?

If I read the ccla link correctly, it's c201 and c223 that are 150uf. From what you said, you only replaced 4 out of the 8 small electrolytic caps. As PlainBill mentioned earlier, these caps are of poor quality to begin with. So, I'm not really sure what you hoping to gain (maybe saving $2) by replacing only half the caps. You never know, one of the other four caps could be tied to the brightness circuit. Do yourself a favor, with the exception of the large 450V cap, replace the other 4 caps now or you'll probably have to open the monitor up again in 6 months to replace them anyway.

**tmcw** · 12-19-2010, 06:59 AM

Re: E173FPc - recapping question

Originally posted by jetadm123

If I read the ccla link correctly, it's c201 and c223 that are 150uf. From what you said, you only replaced 4 out of the 8 small electrolytic caps. As PlainBill mentioned earlier, these caps are of poor quality to begin with. So, I'm not really sure what you hoping to gain (maybe saving $2) by replacing only half the caps. You never know, one of the other four caps could be tied to the brightness circuit. Do yourself a favor, with the exception of the large 450V cap, replace the other 4 caps now or you'll probably have to open the monitor up again in 6 months to replace them anyway.

Yes, thanks, I was thinking about that since I last posted. The other repair guide mentioned 6 different capacitors to replace, so I replaced the other 2 capacitors (C201 and C223), so I've replaced the 6 caps circled in yellow from that repair guide (photo LCD_8_11r.jpg), on one of the boards. I haven't replaced the other 2 capacitors, as I haven't seen it suggested anywhere to replace these as well. I've circled them in red in the photo. After replacing the other 2 capacitors (C201 and C223), there is no difference to the brightness *.

I'm trying to understand these circuits as I replace components, and hoping that I can get some guidance from the knowledgeable folk here to prod me in the right direction. At this point, I'm wondering how to determine whether replacing the upper red capacitor (C207) may have some bearing on the brightness circuit. I've attached a pdf of that circuit from the E173FP manual. It's linked to the short circuit protection pin on the TL1451ACDR.

Also to point out, on my board the C207 capacitor is 33uf/50v, whereas in the schematic, it's 4.7uf/16v. Is this significant? My board is also 1 revision up from the board on the schematic.

-------------------
* I should point out that when I had replaced the first 4 caps and tested the brightness, and wasn't seeing a change in the brightness, but the PC was running mediaportal at the time. When I went back to the desktop, and opened Windows Explorer (lots of white on the screen), I did notice a change in brightness when I adjusted from 0-100, but it wasn't much of a change, and certainly nowhere near as much as the difference I see when changing the brightness on 2 E173FPf's that I have here. The internals of these two monitors are quite different though, and probably not comparable. I probably need to see another E173FPc, and see how the brightness adjust behaves on that.

Attached Files

**jetadm123** · 12-19-2010, 10:18 AM

Re: E173FPc - recapping question

Originally posted by tmcw

Yes, thanks, I was thinking about that since I last posted. The other repair guide mentioned 6 different capacitors to replace, so I replaced the other 2 capacitors (C201 and C223), so I've replaced the 6 caps circled in yellow from that repair guide (photo LCD_8_11r.jpg), on one of the boards. I haven't replaced the other 2 capacitors, as I haven't seen it suggested anywhere to replace these as well. I've circled them in red in the photo. After replacing the other 2 capacitors (C201 and C223), there is no difference to the brightness *.

I'm trying to understand these circuits as I replace components, and hoping that I can get some guidance from the knowledgeable folk here to prod me in the right direction. At this point, I'm wondering how to determine whether replacing the upper red capacitor (C207) may have some bearing on the brightness circuit. I've attached a pdf of that circuit from the E173FP manual. It's linked to the short circuit protection pin on the TL1451ACDR.

Also to point out, on my board the C207 capacitor is 33uf/50v, whereas in the schematic, it's 4.7uf/16v. Is this significant? My board is also 1 revision up from the board on the schematic.

-------------------
* I should point out that when I had replaced the first 4 caps and tested the brightness, and wasn't seeing a change in the brightness, but the PC was running mediaportal at the time. When I went back to the desktop, and opened Windows Explorer (lots of white on the screen), I did notice a change in brightness when I adjusted from 0-100, but it wasn't much of a change, and certainly nowhere near as much as the difference I see when changing the brightness on 2 E173FPf's that I have here. The internals of these two monitors are quite different though, and probably not comparable. I probably need to see another E173FPc, and see how the brightness adjust behaves on that.

The schematic you've enclosed is somewhat of a "baseline" version for your monitor. Your monitor is a E173fpc, whereas, the schematic is for a E173fp. There were many different versions of the E173 series made and differences in capacitance values would not be unusual. Therefore, stay with the 33uf. From the spec sheet, it looks like C207 helps set the enable time for how the the TL1451 waits before shutting the system down when it sees a short. This cap should not affect brightness.

The other cap in red is a startup cap used with the 8-pin PWM chip below it. If it fails, then the power supply will not start. Also, replace it.

**PCBONEZ** · 12-19-2010, 11:22 AM

Re: E173FPc - recapping question

On the temp. - 105C is fine but don't use 85C.
Actual temp gets close to 85C so they don't last that long.
-
At the same actual operating temp a 105C 2000Hr rated cap will last 8x longer than a 85C 2000Hr rated cap.
[And no, the hours rating is not how long they last. It's how long they can be maxed out [abused] and -not- be damaged.]
.

E173FPc - recapping question

E173FPc - recapping question

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