I found this splitter cable a while back, just got a chance to look at it now, and wondering what it might have been used for. Had a bit of trouble finding out initially what it was, main block that looks like a male DVI connector, split to 2 female VGA connectors.
The main block that looks like a DVI connector is actually a VESA EVC male connector, best concise info here:
[url]http://www.interfacebus.com/Design_EVC_Connector_Pinout.html[/url]
Pin 13 on the EVC connector is missing, so maybe removed for keying to some particular graphics card?
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tmcw
Badcaps Veteran
Last Activity: 03-27-2024, 02:59 AM
Joined: 10-14-2010
Location: Ireland
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VESA EVC to VGA splitter cable
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Re: Fridge - Gram
Cheers for the input, it's much appreciated.
Digging deeper into it, I found some wiring documents for other Gram fridges/freezers, and can see some of the other connectors, particularly the ones on the power-in side of the board are used for fans on the condenser, or heating elements for defrost functions on some freezers, for example this document:
[url]https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/2e04c929d813b19971cfec9133678e01.pdf[/url]
And this document shows the wiring with the LTP board wired in:
[url]https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/7eb940e46baea5f82af7b306b48b30aa.pdf[/url]... -
Re: Fridge - Gram
Thanks for the info and links, I hadn't found that document on the fridge. This document is fairly recent, our fridge is from about 2012, so an older revision, and one difference I can see is on the keypad, part 64, ours only has 7 buttons, only 3 numbered buttons (1, 2 and 3, plus the other 4 buttons, +/-/P/Q), whereas the newer revision has 5 numbered buttons (1, 2, 3, 4 and 5, plus the other 4 buttons)
The cable to the outside temp sensor (C) is a fair bit longer than the other 2, so that might account for the higher resistance?
Now,...Last edited by tmcw; 10-13-2023, 04:13 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Fridge - Gram
The fridges are all the same, GRAM Biocompact II RR410.
I've attached a couple of photos, one of the mainboard, and one of two of the sensors that are inside the unit, one stuffed into the chiller, the other rests in the tray below the chiller. In that photo, you can also see the wiring that goes to the fan, which is attached to the tray.
When I was talking about the connectors, I was referring to the physical connector on the mainboard that the 3 temperature sensors attach to, the one hanging is connected to A on the mainboard, the...Leave a comment:
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Re: Fridge - Gram
Not sure now where the low temperature protection sensor will be now, as I disconnected all 3 connectors, and got errors F1, F2, F3 and F6 on the display, and plugging in each of the 3 connectors in turn eliminated the relevant error code, as per the error table attached.
F1 for the sensor in the tray, F2 for the sensor in the chiller, and F3 for the sensor on the radiator at the back, outside....Leave a comment:
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Re: Fridge - Gram
The fridge is about 11-12 years old, lab environment, opened and closed many times a day, more than the typical domestic fridge. It got down to 4oC within an hour or so, and stayed like that overnight. Fan going on/off with the door closed/opened, as expected. I've put it back in the lab for the time being, but will get new caps to shotgun the PSU.
The other 2 caps are 4.7/400V Su'scons (or something like that), haven't taken them off yet, but will definitely get good replacements for the other 2, there are a few other fridges with the same problem,...Leave a comment:
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Re: Fridge - Gram
Thanks for the reply.
I don't have any good caps to hand, so was just scouring some old boards for parts, and the bloated cap near the DC out, the only 470/16V I could find was a janky green Lelon, and it was worse than the bloated one as far as the voltage out was.
However, I took off the small one near the chip (22/50V, AISHI) and found an LXV on an old board, put it on, and the fan is now spinning when the door is closed!
In the first few seconds of powering up the fridge, I could see that the fan was jerking, not...Leave a comment:
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Fridge - Gram
Have this fridge, laboratory grade unit, not working fully.
It's designed with a chilling unit at the top, on the inside, and a fan just below that. When the door is closed, the fan blows the cold air down through the fridge, and when the door opens, the fan switches off, presumably so that it doesn't blow all the cold air out.
The fan isn't switching on, so in addition to not having uniform cold throughout the fridge, the chilling tubes tend to ice up. I took the lid off the top, electronics are in the lid, and when the door is opened and closed, I can hear the relevant... -
Re: NEY Ultrasonic bath - magic smell
Thanks for the replies and insights.
Trying to understand what you mean by no longer balanced with the original circuit. Is it like balancing a tyre, and for the piezoelectric element, they add material to get an even spread of ultrasonic waves within the liquid? Sorry if I sound daft.
And what type of metal do they use as deposition material?
I'll try resoldering the wire later. Yep, I know it's difficult to do on these devices, I've tried replace the buzzer on a cheap multimeter in the past, and...Leave a comment:
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NEY Ultrasonic bath - magic smell
Does anyone know much about ultrasonic baths?
I got one here at work, a NEY Ultrasonik 2QT/H, was in the trash, lovely smell of "magic smoke" having recently been emitted. Might have been the Engineering Dept that dumped it.
Anyway, the sonic and heating lights on the front come on when plugged in and switched on, but no familiar noise I'd expect (like the sound effects from old Flash Gordon tv series of the 30's).
Opened it up, and see some remains of something that was on the piezoelectric device on the underside of the bath, but not sure... -
Dell Optiplex 5080 - BIOS Admin password
Trying to unlock a 5080 Optiplex Tower, BIOS admin password is set, so can't do much with it (want to wipe the SSD and install new OS).
Looking at the motherboard manual, there is a jumper (not clear if it's PPWD or not), but on this board, it's not present (solder pads are there), and some of the surrounding component places are not populated either, so even if it is PPWD, probably not an option.
I've tried the codes on bios-pw org after inputting the service code number, but no joy.
Is there a good procedure to get the password cleared? -
Re: Dell Optiplex 760, uSFF - possible BIOS issue?
The BIOS updater is run from Windows, and the PC isn't booting that far, so it would probably need to be flashed with the BIOS chip off the board? Not something I've done before, and don't really know where to start. But willing to learn. I'll see what I can dig out.Leave a comment:
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Re: can be card with damaged 1st pcie line used somehow?
Is it definitely broken, and not just a shorter connector that is designed like that to connect later than other connectors?Leave a comment:
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Dell Optiplex 760, uSFF - possible BIOS issue?
We have 3 of these 760 uSFF boxes with what seems the same issue. One of them went bad about 6 months ago, and the other 2 went bad about 4 weeks ago during a power cut, don't know if that was a coincidence or not.
Anyway, to describe the problem, the boxes will begin to boot, but just reach a point with a flashing cursor, or if you try to enter setup (F2) same thing. If you press F12 for a boot menu, you get the boot menu, can select boot device, or setup, diagnostics, etc., but when you press enter, the boxes just hang there. You end up having to press the power button to switch... -
PC case - Hard drive rails
A friend gave me his old PC case (with MB, and PSU), but no hard drive rails, he said he only used the 2.5" SSD spot inside, and used an external hard drive for data. He said that he'd have a look for the supplied rails, but I doubt he'll find them.
So I was wondering if case manufacturers used any type of standard 3.5" hard drive rail?
I'm used to the various Dell hard drive caddies or rails (and HP and Lenovo to a lesser extent), or el cheapo cases where you screw through the frame to fix the drive.
Now, the case is a CiT Gaming Case, and... -
Re: Aerocool Integrator 600W - ACP-I600HG - Low +5V SB
Thanks, yes, it looks like it, when I cracked open the power supply, I found 2 1000uF/16V caps that are bulging on top. I haven't delved further to see if they are part of the +5V SB circuit yet though.
There are a few other 1000uF/10v caps that are the same brand, so I might change them as well.Last edited by tmcw; 05-17-2022, 01:56 AM.Leave a comment:
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Aerocool Integrator 600W - ACP-I600HG - Low +5V SB
A mate gave me one of his old PCs, he said that he was having problems with the power button, so he had jumpered the green to ground on the PSU to make it work. When I finally got to it, it no longer seems to boot.
Anyway, I stripped out the motherboard and PSU from the case, made a few basic tests, find the power button is fine, and all voltages seem to be ok-ish (3.30, 5.07, 12.20) except for the +5 SB, which is around 4.06V.
The motherboard is GA-Z97P-D3, and seems to boot ok with another PSU, but the original PSU and the motherboard have the 8-pin CPU power connector....Last edited by tmcw; 05-14-2022, 10:18 AM. -
Tumble Dryer - motor start capacitor
I was looking for a replacement capacitor for a tumble dryer, and I found one on eBay that has the correct values, and even looked similar, but of course, when the capacitor arrived, it didn't look like the cap in the listing picture.
I've attached the old (left) and the replacement (right) caps in a picture. The new one has plastic housing, the old one has a metal housing and is bigger. Am I likely to have any issues with this replacement?
Thanks.... -
Re: best cheap/free scores 1.1
Dunno if it was a good score or not, but it was free...
A Dell Wyse 5040 (W11B), nice clean screen, I only tested it with a VGA output from a laptop, looked decent enough.
Does anyone know if it's possible to use anything from inside, SSD, RAM, or is it all soldered on, and if you remove anything, will it still work as a monitor?
Can anything useful be done with it as a standalone PC? (not as a thin client).Leave a comment:
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Re: Philips BDL4221 Speakers too loud
Just to add to the info, the speakers are JVC SP-UXLP5, with power handling capacity of 35W, and 6 ohm impedance.
According to the specs for the monitor, they originally came with "2 x 10 W RMS Speakers".
Do I risk damaging the audio output of the monitor using these speakers?Leave a comment:
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