Re: 1980s stereo repair time!
so draw a schematic,
that's why eaglecad is free.
http://www.cadsoft.de
so draw a schematic,
that's why eaglecad is free.
http://www.cadsoft.de
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Re: 1980s stereo repair time!
Hi, just a quick question on your SA-TX50. I have had mine since '97 and it is still running strong. The only problem I have is that one of the display backlights has burned out. Have you seen this issue and can the lights be replaced? I know I can turn off the lights, but it looks so nice with them on. Thank You.Comment
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Re: 1980s stereo repair time!
backlight burnout was always common.
you need to find out 3 things.
1: how many bulbs.
2: how big are they - length, width
3: what voltage is feeding them.Comment
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Re: 1980s stereo repair time!
I had an sx 580 untill I sent it into pepsi syndrome. Pioneer made some good stuff back then. The tuner never was the same.
I still have the 727 from the 70s A little contact cleaner is all she needs once in a while.Comment
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Re: 1980s stereo repair time!
Hi! Looks like a great board here, lots of wisdom and all. Am looking forward to looking through the forums to see what I can find out about things I can POOGE or restore.
BTW--old caps going flaky/bad is hardly new....somewhere I have the RADIO NEWS magazine for January 1940, in which there is an article about how to restore dried-out Mershon electrolytic caps that Philco used in a number of their AC-powered sets in the 1930s....Comment
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Re: 1980s stereo repair time!
(OOPS, wrong forum!)Comment
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Things I've fixed: anything from semis to crappy Chinese $2 radios, and now an IoT Dildo....
"Dude, this is Wyoming, i hopped on and sent 'er. No fucking around." -- Me
Excuse me while i do something dangerous
You must have a sad, sad boring life if you hate on people harmlessly enjoying life with an animal costume.
Sometimes you need to break shit to fix it.... Thats why my lawnmower doesn't have a deadman switch or engine brake anymore
Follow the white rabbit.Comment
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I made a post over on reddit about how my windows laptop only works when plugged in now, because I dropped a screw driver on the connector pins where the laptop battery plugs into, causing sparks. I put a brand new battery in but still the same result, so something on the board obviously got fried (however, there's no visible burn marks, so no clue what was affected). I honestly wouldn't care, but my laptop is power throttling even with the internal battery unplugged (turns out this is a common problem on laptops with poor batteries or missing batteries). The GPU won't go above 40W when the TDP... -
Hello all. I'll try to keep this short. I have no knowledge of electronics. I can use a multimeter and am familiar with caps to some extent. I bought a Kenwood KR-6030 vintage stereo. It need work and so I thought I would recap the thing since I get power to the on switch but nothing else is working. No lights, no sound and so forth. I went to Mouser to order caps and I find I am way over my head. I not only do not know the type of capacitors I need but Mouser and digikey do not accept Kenwood part numbers. I have the info such as 220uF 63v and such but no place to put it. I could buy a recap...
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Hi.
I bought a Cheap HIFI to use as my PC output and speakers and forgot to check if it had an input. It doesn't.
Is there any way to add a stereo input. I have a bunch of Phono sockets I am not using.
Where in the circuit is the best place to solder the 3 stereo input wires?
This is the model and schematics:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/91...7l.html#manual -
Does anyone know? A recent thread has got me wondering if the folks who designed and built consumer-grade LED clocks in the 1980s ever envisioned them still being used in the 2020s or if they were designed to give out (i.e. planned obsolescence) long before then?
Perhaps a better way to phrase this would be: does anyone here still use a 1980s-era clock as a daily timepiece? If so, do you expect to get many more years out of it?
(Along those same lines, if it does eventually develop a fault, are you likely to try to fix it?) -
So like the title says, I have an old Stereo Receiver/Amplifier that I picked up from the goodwill, it's a HH Scott Model A510. When I first got it home it had zero output. Opened it up, notice the fuses are missing. Pop in 2 new fuses (AGC4A 250V) and try again, within 5 seconds the L channel fuse POP! I don't see any visible indications of damage or arc burns on the PCB, no popped resistors or diodes, no burnt traces or blown out caps. So I decide to just try another new fuse, POP. Swapped around my R and L speaker wires, and checked the integrity of all wires and connections. Everything looks...
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