Marshall Stanmore Repair

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  • Jose Luis Gil
    replied
    Hi guys, I just fell upon this post while searching information about the Stanmore...
    A friend (now not so sure!) gave me his speaker and I've been trying to repair it. Apparently everything is working, besides the big capacitor from the power side (done!), and the U15, which is completely burnt.
    I removed it with the purpose of replace it, but I've noticed that part of the tracks are broken because of the U15 burn.
    Does anyone have a clear picture of the board with the U15 removed, to see if I can try to rebuild the burnt part? It will be the last try I'll make with this speaker, as I've read that a lot of people have had issues with...

    Thanks a lot in advance to everybody!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Hkekkonen
    replied
    Originally posted by gergogergo
    Hi,

    Marshall Stanmore 1st gen. sounds nice and well at quarter volume, but turns off at higher volumes.

    What could be wrong? Thank you for your help.
    Im not an expert on electronics but here comes what i found out.

    Look for left over solder balls on the pcp board. Mine had alot of them they might make short at higher operating current/ higher volume or if they move and cause short.
    Main board was bent because of the insulation in between the back plate and board was too high. That causes stress on it and it being inside the speaker vibrating probaly wont do anything good in a long run.
    There was short on ribbon cable connector between two pins on the one that connects the mainboard to frontpanel(pcp with buttons/knobs) i have no idea did it cause problems or not. Did some of the other repairs as well without testing it in between.

    Replaced 3 pcs of caps near optocoupler and 1-2 other ones.

    I got the speaker working after cleaning out those solder balls and sorting out the other issues.

    Only after couple hours of playing some music it would shut down again. I replaced caps near optocoupler and it would work for couple more hours and went silent again. And last i accidently shorted the board and burnt the optocoupler and some other components around it and thats when i gave up on it.

    I did buy another speaker as used to see if it has these same factory made faults/issues. Well it doesent. Same look and model but different product number on it and slightly different circuit. Has way worse sound dont know if it was like that since it had been new.

    Then i changed some messages with Marshall(Marshall headphones) and adressed some of these issues as factory fault and demanded for compensation. They only offered me almost worthless gift card if i would send them detailed info of all the issues and would have them fix my speaker with me having to pay for the job. No deal they can f**k off!

    Did some reviewing on new models. They definetly havent made their products any better and dont seem to care to do so on next gen. Just dont anyone buy these they are complete cheap ass junk. I also found out that these products are only licensed to use Marshall's brand but they are not even authentic Marshall products and not made or designed by Marshall. Thats so idiotic and only does harm to their reputation in my opinion its ridiculous. Brand is actually Marshall headphones and doesent have anything else do with real Marshall than the brand. Thats what i was told and i see this as💩 product line that they just dont want to take responsibility of and its way of selling cheap short lived products to consumers.
    Last edited by Hkekkonen; 09-12-2024, 02:30 PM. Reason: Typo

    Leave a comment:


  • gergogergo
    replied
    Hi,

    Marshall Stanmore 1st gen. sounds nice and well at quarter volume, but turns off at higher volumes.

    What could be wrong?​ Thank you for your help.

    Leave a comment:


  • brockauly
    replied
    Hi,

    My TAS5342A is completely burned. Thank you for the chip's identification.
    I see on providers webistes that there exist a variant of that chip (TAS5342LA), which is available while the original is not.

    Does anyone know if I can safely replace the TAS5342A with a TAS5342LA ? Will it work properly ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Puuhis79
    replied
    I have one on my desk to get scrapped or fixed😂
    I managed to measure those zeners (zd1 and zd3), feedback opto is not working so it needs to be replaced. Also a handfull of other componens has toasted😂

    all caps seems to be in working condition

    ZD1 = 6v
    ZD3 = 17.7v

    Leave a comment:


  • Dioniso
    replied
    Hello everyone, I had an update issue installing the last firmware version on my Stanmore II. Actually I'm able to power on the speaker but control panel seems freeze.
    It is also possible to soft reset the speaker and to connect the smartphone to the device but after few seconds panel get freeze again.
    s anyone aware how to hard reset the software? I saw that we have a service port on the back, it is usefull for the scope?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • jingleslacks
    replied
    I realised that I just posted my previous in the wrong forum since I have a Stanmore II. In other news, I found these in another group. Hope they help
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • jingleslacks
    replied
    Hi Friends,

    I'm not too bright, and I could use some guidance. I don't know a lot of part names or terminology, but I'm trying to follow along. I was measuring voltage across my chips, and my cat got curious and a bit too close to the exposed electronics. I turned my head for a second to shoo him away. In that moment, I was met with a tiny pop, flame and smoke from my leads shorting something. I'm pretty sure I fried the chip. I don't know it's sole purpose, but now I'm not getting any real measurable voltage to that board. My (what I think is my BIOS chip) was getting 1.8V- now nothing. I don't remember the voltage of the cooked chip. Any wisdom would be appreciated. If anyone has the file for that chip, it would be double appreciated.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hkekkonen
    replied
    My Stanmore is powerless again. Have found some major issues in it. Will share the info later.


    Came across with this post on another forum. (mikrocontroller.net/topic/547728)

    Translated it from Germany to English.


    From Josef Aichhorn (Guest), first contact with my inquiry: 16.12.2022 01:00

    Hello everyone!
    I want to thank everyone who helped me repair my MARSHALL STANMORE! Yes, it's working again - something I hardly believed after initial research.
    The link to Badcaps by "4:46 (Guest)" was very efficient! THANK YOU! Among tons of photos and posts, I found the values and designations of the burned components!
    In short, facts (values and designations of the components, see schematic sketch):

    2 defective electrolytic capacitors (EKLOs): C59 [electrolyte leakage], C80 [bulging cap], [both 470µ/50V], and as a precaution, 4 more of the same type replaced.
    Defective parts: Si 1.6AT, Q7, C124, U1, R18+R104, R19,
    Defect due to the removal of the black, hard, tough paste: R69 (not in the power supply: R41[3R30]).
    A heartfelt THANK YOU to everyone!
    Josef from Austria
    PS: As a small thank you, I want to share my painstakingly created sketch of the switching power supply (from Marshall Stanmore) here - because I can imagine that it might be useful ;-) !
    Maybe someone can send it to the Badcaps forums - I don't have authorized access yet... just for viewing. °[:->)​
    And here is the sketch:

    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4360_Schaltplan-Skizze_Marshall_Stanmore-2.jpg
Views:	1579
Size:	328.7 KB
ID:	3202997

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  • Hkekkonen
    replied
    Originally posted by Hkekkonen
    Hello everybody!

    C4 (220µF 25V capacitor)
    Sorry its C4 (3.3uF 50V capacitor)

    Leave a comment:


  • temaplav
    replied
    Please tell me the nominal value of the ZD5 zener diode

    Leave a comment:


  • Hkekkonen
    replied
    Hello everybody!

    My Stanmore is EU model.

    I had it on standard mode, not standby(power saving). And i forgot to turn it off. Not sure for how long, maybe week or two. Once i realised, light was gone and it would not power on. Who uses power saving mode anyways if there is an option? Now it decided to force it self into it!

    Fuse was ok. Visually nothing seemed to be burnt/defect, until i inspected it with microscope. C233 (220µF 25V capacitor) had two holes at the bottom part and some tiny debris close by. Replaced it with 330µF 35V, because it was closest i had.

    Well that didn't solve it, still nothing. I used thermal camera and only place with higher temp, than surroundings was near optocoupler 35°C. By reading this thread, i decided to replace the C4 (220µF 25V capacitor).

    It works again! 🎉

    Thank you all for sharing your knowlidge and the different issues with Stanmore speakers.

    P.s i have it on standby mode now.

    Leave a comment:


  • temaplav
    replied
    Hello, at the beginning, the 220 Ohm resistor (standard situation) and the 12V stabilizer were burnt. After replacement, it turned out that the sound amplifier also burned out. After replacing it, everything worked,
    BUT THERE IS A DEFECT:
    1. When turning the volume knob to the minimum, the power supply is rebooted (I send the signal via bluetooth). Through aux, the same situation.
    2.
    The same situation occurs when I press pause on the phone from which I send the signal.

    The main voltage of 30V drops to 8-9V, due to PWM
    After the automatic reboot of the power supply unit, everything continues to work.​

    Leave a comment:


  • janne911
    replied
    Marshall Stanmore repair

    Hello,

    I have had a defect Marshall Stanmore (first edition) for a couple of years now that I meant to repair. However I haven't been able to find anyone with the similar issue until recently on youtube. However no suggestions to where I should begin troubleshooting.

    Have anybody had the similar issue and possibly a fix for it?
    Suggestions to where I should start also appreciated.

    Video of issue : https://youtu.be/vft56VFffi0?si=lgFmQAfKRaJ3-lnF

    Best regards,
    Janne

    Leave a comment:


  • Hombre
    replied
    Re: Marshall Stanmore Repair

    Your audio ic looks quite burned, on it's pins, i assume at least some of the ceramic caps around ic are measuring low resistance across the. If yes lift IC and check again for resistance on surrounding ceramic caps, if it went up your IC is toasted, and that could be a reason why R7 is burning

    Leave a comment:


  • Wetterstrand
    replied
    Re: Marshall Stanmore Repair

    Hi friends!
    I have an issue with a fried R7 on my board. Tried to replace it but the new one starts to melt almost immediately.
    Any ideas on what the main cause could be? R6 is still ok and brings the correct resistance.
    I'm currently novice, but soon pro Thankful for all the help I can get
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • SMDFlea
    replied
    Re: Marshall Stanmore Repair

    Originally posted by NokLa
    Hello, who can help with this chip?
    Parts with an equals sign = are usually made by Richtek https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...84&postcount=2

    It could be a Richtek RT9114B .Check the pinout carefully.

    Datasheet: https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...0b114cc4ee.pdf

    .
    Last edited by SMDFlea; 07-28-2023, 04:38 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • NokLa
    replied
    Re: Marshall Stanmore Repair

    Hello, who can help with this chip?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • SkyHeart
    replied
    Re: Marshall Stanmore Repair

    D8: Fmg23s
    u5: Lm317t

    Leave a comment:


  • Arl96
    replied
    Re: Marshall Stanmore Repair

    Hi, I'm from Argentina. Does anyone know what are the models of the transistors marked in the photo? I have received a Marshall Stanmore team with the lack of these two
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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    Marshall stanmore multi room
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    03-24-2025, 08:37 AM
  • jingleslacks
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    by jingleslacks
    Hey Friends!

    I have both a live and demo unit. Demo unit firmware disables Bluetooth, power toggle, and other settings. Resets via button combos will not work on these. Reaching out to Marshall is not an option either.

    I copied my live CMOS chip and flashed it to the demo unit, but that didn't fix it (MX25U3235F) This has worked for other devices in the past. I'm not a chip expert, but I'm assuming the firmware is stored in another chip.

    If anyone has any experience or ideas, let's hear them!

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  • thuygsm
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    by thuygsm
    hello
    in my case, the Bluetooth - AUX - RCA signal light goes off after 5 seconds and repeats, (sound is there then 5 seconds then gone and repeats)

    i forgot them and reconnected, but they do not play on the speaker, although i can still adjust the 3 modes Bluetooth - AUX - RCA (on the phone)

    after i loaded a new rom, i lost bluetooth connection and could not power off, no boot sound. i loaded the previously saved rom again, but the situation still cannot find bluetooth and boot sound
    hope everyone can help​

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    04-08-2025, 10:27 PM
  • ohren
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    Hello!

    I'm looking at an original Xbox PSU: Foxlink ftps-0002 rev. B. The 12 V output is too low, and the 5 V output is too (?) high. Unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope but only a DMM for diagnosis.

    Measured voltages with no load:

    After rectifier diodes
    12V: 6.17 V
    5V: 5.67 V

    Secondary transformer pins AC measurement (really don't know if this says anything)
    12V: 2-2.5 V
    5V: 1.04 V


    I also have another (working) Xbox psu from Delta. The same measures there, in order, being: 10.79,...
    03-18-2023, 10:33 AM
  • papagalos
    Marshall Stanmore II speaker
    by papagalos
    Hello everyone.
    The IC CWAT is getting hot and the speaker is not opening.
    Anyone knows what component is this???

    Thanks in advance...
    10-21-2023, 03:29 AM
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