Re: Phillips soundbar NO power problem
That's where I put my money too, or a cold solder / improper solder joint somewhere.
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Re: Phillips soundbar NO power problem
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whF0jGZeNHs
Changed the TOP IC, changed 2 ceramic caps thats connected to the IC. Tested all electro caps and they are fine. Right now if power up as standalone, the power supply is fine but im afraid to hook it up to the main board afraid of blowing up the last TOP i have
See the video, the voltage is not constant, it moves up and down
Last edited by DjKrish; 09-18-2017, 04:24 AM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Phillips soundbar NO power problem
my distant past involved a lot or repairs with topswitches,
99% of them died because a small electrolytic capacitor had dried up.Leave a comment:
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Re: Phillips soundbar NO power problem
On both the Top and Bottom sides, test all the semi-conductors . Test the e-caps ESR and capacitance and NP caps capacitance. Test the resistors for open or high resistance ohms. Do not take for granted nothing is wrong on the ac side. Test all the components on the ac side as well. Report your findings.Leave a comment:
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Philips HTL2160 soundbar NO power problem
This soundbar has a blown AC/DC Offline Switcher IC which is top257en. I replaced it, power restored, can on the unit and sound works fine. After a while, turn it off, and turn it back on again by pressing the power button, the IC blows again
Replaced it again, it blows again after playing with the power button ON and OFF a few times. If the power board is not connected with the main board, its not blowing. It only blows when in operational mode. I suspect it could be the ceramic caps and possibly the electrolytic caps as well. Any suggestions? 19V present (according to service manual) on the output pin that's connection to the main board which states 18V. I believe the AC side is working fine as the fuse is not blowing. Its definitely something to do on the DC side thats blowing the IC.
Already tested all the diodes, all in good orderAttached FilesLast edited by DjKrish; 09-17-2017, 07:45 AM. -
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Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.
Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.
I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.
The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.
With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.
Assuming... -
Hi all!
I'm trying to troubleshoot a Microsoft Surface Pro (5th gen) model 1796 that won't power on. Motherboard model is M1007506-015. My priority is retrieving data, but the SSD is integrated so it looks like if I can't repair it it'll need to go to a data recovery company. I've done a little basic board repair before, but nothing this advanced until now. So please forgive my ignorance in advance. 😅
I found the boardview for this laptop in the forums here, and am able to open it on my PC with FlexBV.
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...-hardware-devi... -
Hi all,
TL;DR - this laptop is driving me nuts with the oddball power-related behaviors. Appreciate any insight you can provide!
I'm experiencing a power issue on an Asus Probook P5440UF-XB74. Although I've worked with electronics and computers for decades, this is my first attempt at getting into motherboard-level component troubleshooting. Any help the community can provide is greatly appreciated!
A few weeks ago I was using the laptop (on battery power) for a Zoom meeting. The battery was running very low (long meeting) but I wasn't worried about... -
I have two of these soundbars, both with the exact same issue. The soundbars were hit by lightning and no longer power on. The PSU does not output any voltage on the DC side. When plugged into mains, the DC output is a stone-cold 0.0 volts. The AC side of the PSU seems to be functioning correctly (as far as I can tell). When checking the plugged-in PSU with my thermal camera, the OB5269CP PWM controller (U1) and the two resistors (R12 and R13) pulse on and off. These run to the positive DC side of the bridge rectifier (among other components along the way).
There's no physical damage... -
I have wanting to do this project for quite sometime now and I finally found a switching power supply that will work on this desoldering gun station ZD-915 that the original switching power supply took a shit and just was not worth trying to fix it because this switching power is not quite big enough to handle the heater element and the vacuum pump
One note when I tested the switching power supply and the voltage control board I noticed that this desoldering gun heat up much faster than the original switching power supply which I was really surprised by to the point that I might buy...
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