ty for the reply!i change them; now i got another think that when i connect the speaker with the serial cable(with the power button, the voltage go nuts)
i open the speaker and tested the wires inside, maybe they are bad;
the cables are fine i don`t think the board from the small speaker has a problem because i look and search what cable(wire) its the power switch 2 and 7 so i put a wire there without the small speaker and the board when nuts again.
p.s. the price of the whole system its so small its not worth fixing it, but i feel that if i do manage to understand and repair it it will be like i pass a exam and will know more then now.
I think I spot a blob of degraded glue there? That black blob on the right in the first picture, hugging that big capacitor...
i wanna see if this pt2325 got the right value and after i connect the controler speaker and it starts to blink what values does it have.
anyone got an ideea where to find this chip besides aswo cuz i need to make a account there and i don`t have.
ty for the reply!
i change them; now i got another think that when i connect the speaker with the serial cable(with the power button, the voltage go nuts)
i open the speaker and tested the wires inside, maybe they are bad;
the cables are fine i don`t think the board from the small speaker has a problem because i look and search what cable(wire) its the power switch 2 and 7 so i put a wire there without the small speaker and the board when nuts again.
p.s. the price of the whole system its so small its not worth fixing it, but i feel that if i do manage to understand and repair it it will be like i pass a exam and will know more then now.
BTW, that 10 Ohms is part of the snubber circuit, you should replace it with same value, you also need to check the cap and the diode in that same area since they are also part of the snubber circuit to protect that SMPS IC.
"got a steady V" steady with dummy load also? Those two small startup/running caps should be replaced as mention.
Well, caps CAN retain their capacitance value, while their ESR goes up - they're "still" no good that way.
As i told you before - replace those two small electrolytics on the primary with some GOOD ones (Panasonic, Nichicon, Rubycon, National / United Chemicon) from a low-ESR series, and see if anything changes.
Also, check if that TO220-cased rectifier on the secondary isn't shorted.
ok i disconnected the big (other mobo) board and the psu got a steady V.
no more beeping.
brb got a lot to check.
sry for the trouble
Well, caps CAN retain their capacitance value, while their ESR goes up - they're "still" no good that way.
As i told you before - replace those two small electrolytics on the primary with some GOOD ones (Panasonic, Nichicon, Rubycon, National / United Chemicon) from a low-ESR series, and see if anything changes.
Also, check if that TO220-cased rectifier on the secondary isn't shorted.
the resistor was in R2 spot.
the diods d1 d2 d3 d4 i desolder one leg and i check them and they all good.
i`ll try to check the transformer today because i saw it like move a little (desolder in time like a cold joint); i place it back but still the same.
i will like to test it but i don`t rly know i do know it got primary side and secondary side. i`ll research it today.
Need to see the bottom side of the board, that 10 Ohms may be used as the fusible resistor. Can you see the P/N of the device attached to the heat sink?
"I desolder like 95% of all the caps from the psu and its still doing the same thing" - what exactly do you mean by that? You tried to turn on the PSU entirely cap-less???
Got any photos of the underside of the board? What's the chip controlling the whole PSU? I'm guessing it's near those two small caps on the top edge of the board.
Speaking of those two small caps, that's a starting point - replacing them (with some reputable brand ones). After that, check to see whether that rectifier diode is shorted or not.
hello
i got this sound system to fix for my friend but the problem is that i don`t rly know where to start.
i desolder like 95% of all the caps from the psu and its still doing the same thing
like here you can here a sound squishing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0O5p...ature=youtu.be
usualy the main speaker got that big serial cable that power up the psu .
maybe the cable(speaker broken), like the console from z5500? or the actual psu its broken.
p.s. i found a burn(black-ish) resistor 10 oHms replace it. at that moment i didn`t have a 10 and i place a 30 ohms but its still doing the same uff
any tip will be welcome just to know where to start dig.
ty
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