6.5ohm woofer?

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  • ivtec
    Badcaps Legend
    • Dec 2008
    • 1967
    • USA

    #1

    6.5ohm woofer?

    HI guys can some expert on audio please tell me if a 6.5ohm double coil woofer driver is good to replace a 8ohm woofer driver
  • ivtec
    Badcaps Legend
    • Dec 2008
    • 1967
    • USA

    #2
    Re: 6.5ohm woofer?

    Originally posted by ivtec
    HI guys can some expert on audio please tell me if a 6.5ohm double coil woofer driver is good to replace a 8ohm woofer driver
    This is the woofer driver i´m talking about.


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI...ectorid=229466

    Comment

    • kaboom
      "Oh, Grouchy!"
      • Jan 2011
      • 2507
      • USA

      #3
      Re: 6.5ohm woofer?

      6.5 ohms is in the range of expected DCR of an 8 ohm nominal impedance driver.

      I don't see any Thiele/Small params listed- you really want to do your homework and make sure a replacement driver will 'work right' with the enclosure and port, if present.

      Neither is SPL (dB per watt @ 1 meter.) Sensitivity is much more important than power handling. At 95 dB/watt, only 10 watts gets the SPL to 105 dB. But with an 83 dB/watt driver needs 160 watts to reach the same level. And that's before power compression.


      Also beware of 4 ohm drivers whose SPL is stated as "xx dB, 2.83V @ 1 meter." This inflates the SPL rating by 3 dB, since 2.83V RMS into 4 ohms is two watts, 3 dB more.

      -Paul
      "pokemon go... to hell!"

      EOL it...
      Originally posted by shango066
      All style and no substance.
      Originally posted by smashstuff30
      guilty,guilty,guilty,guilty!
      guilty of being cheap-made!

      Comment

      • ivtec
        Badcaps Legend
        • Dec 2008
        • 1967
        • USA

        #4
        Re: 6.5ohm woofer?

        Originally posted by kaboom
        6.5 ohms is in the range of expected DCR of an 8 ohm nominal impedance driver.

        I don't see any Thiele/Small params listed- you really want to do your homework and make sure a replacement driver will 'work right' with the enclosure and port, if present.

        Neither is SPL (dB per watt @ 1 meter.) Sensitivity is much more important than power handling. At 95 dB/watt, only 10 watts gets the SPL to 105 dB. But with an 83 dB/watt driver needs 160 watts to reach the same level. And that's before power compression.


        Also beware of 4 ohm drivers whose SPL is stated as "xx dB, 2.83V @ 1 meter." This inflates the SPL rating by 3 dB, since 2.83V RMS into 4 ohms is two watts, 3 dB more.

        -Paul
        Thanks for your explanation but some of it just not in my knowledge,i measured the two terminals of the woofer and have 6.5 ohms with my fluke dm.i searched for more info on this speakers and could not fine anything more that what i stated on the link above,i already installed it in the woofer box connected it to the amp and replaced the 2 big 100000 caps and turned it on connected it to a Sony receiver 100w per Chan. woofer connection and it works but it seems i can't turn both volume and L.P.F 40Hz to 250Hz all the way up so i keep L.P.F. at 40Hz and i can turn volume 80% high and all good. also there is no mark for +and - there is a thin terminal which i assume that is the + the wider terminal i put in the - terminal correct me if I'm wrong.thanks

        Comment

        • Longbow
          Badcaps Veteran
          • Jun 2011
          • 623
          • USA

          #5
          Re: 6.5ohm woofer?

          The resistance that you measure with the multimeter is NOT the impedance of the speaker. Typically, and 8-ohm speaker implies 8 ohms impedance, not 8 ohms resistance. An 8 ohm speaker, will usually show 4 to 6 ohms resistance, just for reference. The manufacturer's specs should tell you what you want to know. Double coil? You would have to find out how that is is designed to be driven, but I'm assuming they are in series. Some of the sub woof speakers supplement the magnet with a separate coil so find out what it is exactly before you buy.

          As far as translating the speaker's ability to turn electrical power into acoustic energy, the subject easily becomes far more complex than most people will be able to handle. The speaker enclosure has much more to do with coupling speaker movement to surrounding air than the actual efficiency of the driver. In any case, a speaker designer has the tools to adjust and compensate for varying efficiency levels. As usual, it just isn't that simple.
          Is it plugged in?

          Comment

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