Wine Fridge Power Board

[Agent24]

Re: Wine Fridge Power Board

A Low-ESR type from a decent company like Rubycon would be the best idea.

[c5gary2]

Re: Wine Fridge Power Board

Thank you!
Share a part number/supplier?
Looking at Digikey, they don't specify ESR for Rubycon without going though a lot of datasheets?
This cap is just a supply filter cap (though it runs at about 6KHz) why is low ESR all that important?
It seems to me that what is needed is not so much a low ESR cap as a cap that stays low ESR! I was thinking more about specified life hours and temp rating??
Maybe there are spikes about 25V so it should be a higher voltage cap?

Lifetime of these supplies seems to be two to four years for me (24/7 operation). This one cap seems to be the one over-stressed component.
Caps I have removed look perfect, no bulging or leaks, etc.

Thanks,
Gary
WB6OGD

[Agent24]

Re: Wine Fridge Power Board

This cap is just a supply filter cap (though it runs at about 6KHz) why is low ESR all that important?
It seems to me that what is needed is not so much a low ESR cap as a cap that stays low ESR! I was thinking more about specified life hours and temp rating??

The lower the ESR, the less heat generated inside the capacitor from loss, so the longer life it should have, and the better... (to a point - if the ESR is extremely low and the circuit is not designed for it, then the circuit may become unstable)

Rubycon YXJ or Panasonic FC would be good there. They are not super low ESR but have high lifetimes. They are also good quality brands.

Yes, you would typically like to choose 105 degrees or higher rated parts.

Lifetime of these supplies seems to be two to four years for me (24/7 operation). This one cap seems to be the one over-stressed component.
Caps I have removed look perfect, no bulging or leaks, etc.

Is it right next to the output rectifier heatsink? That may account for part of the problem. You could mount the replacement on a lean, further away from it.

[c5gary2]

Re: Wine Fridge Power Board

Rubycon YXJ or Panasonic FC would be good there. They are not super low ESR but have high lifetimes. They are also good quality brands.

Yes, you would typically like to choose 105 degrees or higher rated parts.

THANK YOU! Looks like Rubycon p/n 50YXJ47M6.3X11 then. Rated at 105degC, 7000 Hours. This is the 50V version but has better specs (I think) and is a nickle cheaper than the 25V version, only $0.26 at Digikey.

Is it right next to the output rectifier heatsink? That may account for part of the problem. You could mount the replacement on a lean, further away from it.

Yes, it is right next to the heatsink! Could easily be mounted further away, will do that. At least it is UNDER the heatsink as the board is mounted in the fridge, heat rises and probably cools it a little!

BTW, the article that helped solve this repair was this one:
http://ludens.cl/Electron/PS40/PS40.html

Very good, explanation of startup of one of these two transformer, two pair of transistor type of switching supplies. Something I could not find anywhere else.

The one last thing I am going to work on is:
These wine fridges are JUST adequate. Gets the wine down to where it is preserved but not totally cool enough for white wine in the summer heat.
I think just upping the voltage will do it, I am only getting about 11.2V out to drive the Peltier. Hopefully the chinese Peltier can stand a little more. This should be just be a resistor change, ANYONE TELL ME WHICH ONE?

Oh, I did have one original Peltier fail. Looked like it was poorly mounted. I bought a replacement from ebay (chinese) mounted it with more care and it has survived just fine. I think it was only $3 to $4. Some of the previous posts said you need to get a USA made one but I beg to differ. After all this whole fridge comes from China!

Just for future googlers (this is a huge thread), this supply is known as the RF-5210-11. New replacement ones have the socketed microcontroller on the board which is not needed in this application and the original boards did not have it.

Thanks again,
Gary

[San7an44]

Re: Wine Fridge Power Board

HYS60-12-KD Here

My internal fan is only getting 9.6v when running

Compared to the other heat side fan which is at 12v
Rest of the voltages seem fine.

Any recommended solution?

[jimmigee]

Re: Wine Fridge Power Board

I will be tearing into one of these this weekend. The only replacement board I can find is on ebay for 69 bucks! What a rip!

[Wes2020]

Re: Wine Fridge Power Board

I see that this is an old thread, but just had my Wine Cooler go out and found these two boards questionable. What should be the outputs for CN1, CN2, CN3 & CN4 (Should be the same.) and CN5 pins 1 & 2 since 3 is ground.?
I found a print and it looks like it will work, so far all the parts match, only problem none of the components are labeled on the print. At least I've got something to look at, not like the old days when you could just pull out a Sams Photofact and just jump right in there and fix it.
Any help besides replacing all the Caps?
Thanks Wes!

[Krobbie]

Greetings,

I also know this is quite an old thread... But there is a lot of good info here.
I just received an Allivino dual chamber wine cooler with the HYS60-12-KD boards. Looks like the Peltier modules are shot. In reference to Post #165, I get about 9.6V on one chamber for the internal fan (CN5, 3 pin) and 12V on the other chamber for the internal fan (CN5, 3 pin)... (not the rear fans, (CN3) they are solid 12V). Oddly - the chamber fans are fed through a 75 Ohm power resistor. The drive circuit looks pretty simple and the parts test OK. I was wondering if anyone can tell me if this is typical, or if not - how to remedy this? Seems like a bad idea to power a 12V fan with such a low voltage. I pulled the fan and it is a 12V, 0.08A fan, and tests just fine on the bench.

Thanks!