Replacing BGA components with hot air.

[stj]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

higher voltage is better and safer than higher current.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

use the dryer socket

Okay. Is there a reason you say that? Just out of curiosity.

I've seen a few different ACHI models. Some come with a plug, some just come with wires. I don't know yet if this Scotle just comes with wires that need to be hard wired in (or have a plug attached) or if it actually has a plug on it. I'm probably going to need help hooking it up to electricity

[stj]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

use the dryer socket

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

I think I decided. Instead of the ACHI or the Fundar, I think I'm going to go for the Scotle IR PRO SC V5 BGA Rework Station. From what I've been reading, they're similar to the ACHI but just higher build quality. It's a little more pricey. I might use one of those step-up transformers or I might just try hooking up a junction box to the dryer's line. I dunno yet.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

I'm also looking into those a little more expensive Fundar FD-6900's. ( http://www.aliexpress.com/store/prod...037971308.html )

I like the touch screen part, but they're more than double, almost 3x as much as the other.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

This one appears to be fitted for 120v
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BGA-REWORK-S...YAAOSwQjNW-0So

Would 2,000 watt be enough though? Also, my calculations show around 17 amps is what would be used. The other one wasn't much higher though. 2,000 for the preheater, 400 for the main unit. I'm guess at 2,000 watt, it's probably 1,600 for the preheater, 400 for the top heater. Thanks.

[stj]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

no, it needs a bigger gauge so it wont melt your wiring!

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

I purchased a step up converter like below and ran 12-2 from my panel. Until you purchase your supplies to run from your dryer you'll have about the same invested anyway and you won't have the wife yelling she can't use the dryer because you are playing with your machine
http://www.voltageconverters.com/ite...asp?ic=VC3000W
The $680 new one is the newer model because it does use the K-type thermocouple and it is located in the front. There are 2 thermocouples on the machine, one for bottom heat and one for top. I purchased one of these so I can monitor how even the heat is from time to time, but generally only use the one on the machine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Channel-K-...QAAOSwsFpWRqxE

I have stuff to measure the temp with other k-type thermocouples. I just thought one wasn't enough to control the heaters. I'm glad to hear they're two of them on that machine. The video only showed one for some reason, maybe the video was for the older model or something?

I'm confused with the step-up converter. I understand that it can convert 120VAC to 240VAC, but because my 120VAC wire in the wall isn't a very heavy gauge, it can't handle very many amps / watts. Wouldn't the step-up converter need that bigger gauge wire so it doesn't trip a breaker?

[nojgib]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

This one appears to be fitted for 120v
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BGA-REWORK-S...YAAOSwQjNW-0So

[nojgib]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

I purchased a step up converter like below and ran 12-2 from my panel. Until you purchase your supplies to run from your dryer you'll have about the same invested anyway and you won't have the wife yelling she can't use the dryer because you are playing with your machine
http://www.voltageconverters.com/ite...asp?ic=VC3000W
The $680 new one is the newer model because it does use the K-type thermocouple and it is located in the front. There are 2 thermocouples on the machine, one for bottom heat and one for top. I purchased one of these so I can monitor how even the heat is from time to time, but generally only use the one on the machine:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Channel-K-...QAAOSwsFpWRqxE

[stj]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

i still need to get the details of the big one from my m8

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

I was getting ready to purchase a used ACHI IR PRO SC for 850$ (free shipping). But then I decided to look around a bit and I found, what I think is the same unit, new though, for 680$ (both include free shipping).

Here's the 850$ used one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/achi-IR-PRO-.../152033619085?

Here's the 680$ new one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SALE-Solderi...3D131795974275

Are both these the exact same model number? The guy selling the used one said he paid 3x as much as he's selling it for. Why would the new one be cheaper than the used one? Could they have different hardware inside or something?

From the video I'm watching, it also looks like there's only 1 k-type thermocouple connector. Shouldn't there be more for a good reflow? I should have at least for around the component I'm replacing I figured, and then maybe a couple on the board for the pre-heater...what do you guys think? Should maybe I look for a different one?


Also, on a video I'm watching about the ACHI IR PRO SC, the bottom is 2,000 watt, the top IR heater is 400 watt, giving a total of 2.4 kW, the entire unit uses 2.5 kW. Is that enough? I thought I remember someone saying 4,000 total watts is more normal...

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

damn, 120-0-120 center-tapped!
i expected 0-240 with a seperate neutral-bonded ground!
you really have shit power standards in that country!

Does that mean it's not really 240v? I was going to purchase that ACHI IR PRO SC. Would I not be able to hook up another outlet to that orange wire in the pics and power this thing? Thanks.

[stj]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

take these.

if you power the circuit with the dryer unplugged and stuff a meter set to 600v / 1000v AC in the L1 and L2 you should see 240v

[stj]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

damn, 120-0-120 center-tapped!
i expected 0-240 with a seperate neutral-bonded ground!
you really have shit power standards in that country!

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

There's no fuses in the breaker box, just breakers. I have no way of tracing the wire to the breaker. I took an educated guess, turned on the dryer, and started flipping some breakers. I figured it wasn't any of the 20 amp or 30 amp's. So, I concentrated on the double's. For example, there's two 50 amp breakers that connected together. You flip both at the same time. There's two 30 amp breakers that are tied together. When I flipped the two 30 amp breakers, the dryer turned off.

I'm a bit confused about the wattage. I'm uploading some pictures. I open the door and look at the sticker. It has two ratings. The sticker says:
120/240 v 60 HZ 5600 W 24 A 3 wire
120/208 v 60 HZ 4400 W 22 A 3 wire

I have no idea why there's two or how to tell if I'm running at 240v or 208v. Here's the pics, maybe you can make some sense out of it, because you guys are more used to 240v than me.

I can also send pictures of the breakers if you'd like, to see what I'm talking about, about how they're tied together.

[stj]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

what wattage is the dryer, what's the cable spec, what is at the other end of the cable - breaker/fuse etc.

conectors - your in the u.s.a. - standardisation would be comunism!

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

I found a used ACHI IR PRO SC for 850$ or so. Do you think that's worth it? It runs off 240v. And the best part, I found 240v lines in the house!!! The dryer uses them, which is right next to the work room.

The way my dad wired it up, he cut a big square down by the receptacle and boxed the sheetrock in. So, in the bathroom, where the 240v outlet is, I can see the wire that runs to the outlet, I can see the 2x4's (I think they're called studs). I can see and touch the sheetrock in the work room.

I was thinking of unhooking the 240v from the dryer outlet, hooking up some sort of junction box, have the wire that was going to the dryer outlet go into the junction box and then having two wires coming out. Ones that goes to the dryer's outlet and then one that goes into the work room.

I have absolutely no experience with 240v at all. Are all the outlets the same or is there a chance whatever reballer I purchase would use a totally different outlet then what the dryer uses? Also, what gauge is 240v ran with usually? I'd like to know if I can safely use a 4kW reballer while the dryer's running or if I'd need to use one at a time. It wouldn't be a big problem, I'd just like to know.

[Spork Schivago]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

on laptop repair, I did successfully on NM10 chip, but bigger than NM10 chip, I did not successfully.

Thanks for the info.

[and555]

Re: Replacing BGA components with hot air.

Has anyone successfully replaced any BGA components using a hot air rework station? I have a broken PS3 there and was thinking of replacing the RSX chip. It's a BGA component and I don't have a reballer. I was thinking maybe removing the old chip, cleaning the pads with desoldering wick, purchasing a stencil, balls and a new RSX chip. Then I was going to try using a k-type thermocouple to monitor the temperature the best I could and try to hold the temps for however long the profile for the chip says. Would this work? Has anyone tried it before?

I've had a little success with these things by just holding the hot air over the chip to the solder melts under it. But the fix never lasts long. No more than a month or so.

on laptop repair, I did successfully on NM10 chip, but bigger than NM10 chip, I did not successfully.