Just need some help to confirm what this mov is. So far all I can make out is N241K & JVR. I'm not familiar with these but hoping someone is.
Attached Files
-
-
There would be a number (diameter) prior to the N241K IE: 10N241K (10mm)
The N series are High temperature series, D series are Standard series 10D241k which should work and are easier to find
Page 13 of the 10N-series pdf explains the difference between the series lettersLast edited by R_J; 06-04-2025, 05:57 PM. -
Thank you for that info. Can you tell me how critical the frequency is? I found a few but the listed frequency doesn't match the chart.Comment
-
That depends on in what circuit / device you replacing the MOV.Comment
-
i've got an A2337 820-02016 that has no power. No sign of liquid damage and no obviously damaged components. The board looks brand new. USBc amp meter does not turn on when plugged into either port. I've tried multiple known good chargers and usbc boards. No shorts on any of the large coils. Not super familiar with diagnosing Macbook boards so any help is appreciated.
USBC1_CC1 = 1.6v but fluctuates to .9v
PPVBUS_USBC1 = 0v
PP3v3_UPC1_LDO = 0v
PPDCIN_AON_CHGR_R = 0v
PPVBAT_AON_CHGR_REG = 0.07v
PPBUS_AON = 0.07v
I'm thinking... -
Hello Everyone,
I have an Onkyo TX-SR353 Audio/Video Receiver (5.1 ch with HDMI) that I am having a really hard time diagnosing and I'm about to throw this in the junk and go buy a new unit that is on sale until the 7th.
Symptoms:- Intermittent (part of the reason why i'm having a hard time isolating problem), sometimes will work for 10+h at a time without issue
- Original symptom was wife reported loud banging noise (like someone was banging on the wall with their fists) from the LEFT SURROUND speaker and then the unit shut off.
- I swapped the Left and Right surround
-
Hello,
I'm hoping someone could help me confirm if I have identified the following parts correctly.
Apparently the DP cable became stuck inside the graphics card and was yanked out. This caused some sort of short which burned the DP contacts and blew some resistors and ferrite beads.
The parts needing replacement are on the back of the board behind the HDMI input.
I have identified the parts as the following:
C6037: MLCC 0.1uf/16v(0402)x7R W05
R6016: RES 499 OHM 1/16W (0402) 1%
LB10911: Ferrite Bead (0402)...02-16-2025, 01:09 PM -
I have a Samsung 60-inch plasma TV, model PN60E550D1FXZA with factory remote. When cold, the TV will turn on and operate normally. After operating for longer than 30-60 minutes, if the set is turned OFF and then back ON, it will turn back ON, but there is no picture (screen remains black). I can confirm set is ON because I can hear audio from the speakers when I operate the VOLUME UP/DOWN control on the remote. If I allow the TV to rest (cool), it will eventually turn back ON with picture restored. That may take an hour or overnight.
I have removed the back of the TV and looked...12-21-2021, 02:40 PM -
Ok I screwed up big time and hoping I can fix. I will break down what happened and the images.- Have Dell PowerEdge R730
- Bought Tesla P40
- Researched power cables and order correct one, pic had two black connectors in photos
- Power cable arrived, same connectors (EPS-12v) on both ends
Both sides are the same plug but different colors. The listing stated that colors would be random. OK I plug it in, red side to riser board, black side to GPU. - Power on.
- System immediately turns off.
- I only had 1 PSU plugged in and it was blinking orange, I thought I drew too much so I plugged in
Comment