Running Line Voltage and Integrating LED Pods - Automotive

[FALKLAN]

Howdy everyone! I hope all is well where ever you are!

I'm attempting to integrate a couple of LED pods into an automotive reverse lamp circuit. The problem being, while the vehicle is running there is a 8.5v current present on the reverse lamp power wire. Needless to say is that all LED pods and lights dimly illuminate while the 8.5v is present, so the LEDs are always powered on while the vehicle is running. When the vehicle is shifted into reverse, the voltage changes to 12 volts.

I am uncertain how to convert this line into a switched 12v output line for the LED pods. I purchased a couple of DC-to-DC buck converters thinking they may fix this problem, but I don't believe buck converters are the solution. I may be wrong but I don't know which item to use to produce a switched 12v on/off reverse lamp wire for the light pods. So I came here to ask about this.

I need something that ignores the 8.5v running current, and once a 12v current is present, it switches on the 12v power to the LED pods.

What do I use that will produce a switched 12v current when only a 12v current becomes present in the reverse lamp lead?



I also have an AC adapter for a Behringer audio mixer that is producing a total 21 volts. The mixer runs on 15 volts so I need to install a resistor; however, I'm uncertain which line to install the resistor. This overvoltage is producing feedback in the mixer's audio output. While I'm working on this mixer, I want to convert the connector to a different type because they don't make these type of AC adapters any longer.

[stj]

why are the reversing lights constantly powered? that sounds like bad design or a faulty switch
running lights is one thing, but having white lights constantly on at the back sounds very wrong.

does your new lights have a switching signal or just a + - feed?

[sam_sam_sam]

why are the reversing lights constantly powered? that sounds like bad design or a faulty switch
running lights is one thing, but having white lights constantly on at the back sounds very wrong.

does your new lights have a switching signal or just a + - feed?

If this is a fairly new car that are probably using some type of b buss system or it might go by some other name but it has a small amount voltage but it sends a signal that device controller can understand and if this is the case be very careful about add device that can not communicate with the main system because you can destroy it to point that it shuts down

or

You might have a bad reverse switch that is not completely disconnecting from the power supply connection your best bet is to find the reverse switch main power wire and see if you have 12 volts there if so then you are just replacing switch should work but if you get the 8.5 volt at the reverse switch then this where you want to find the wiring diagram and make sure that it does not go to the computer of the car because if it does then I highly recommend that you abandon the idea that you have about using the power from the reverse light socket

[FALKLAN]

AFAIK the system is functioning properly. I reinstalled the bulbs and they work just fine. Yes the external/internal lighting systems do communicate via CANbus. I must be diligent when purchasing LED lighting to replace any incandescent bulbs. This is a 2003 Mercedes ML500, so it's not new, but there is a sophisticated CANbus. I think the best option is a wiring harness with a micro switch inside the shifter and a relay to provide an isolated power line for those LED pods.

I've had to run a power wire and toggle switch to operate the low beams in my headlamps over some coding problem that popped up over a year ago. I swear it's that DAMN rain sensor attached to the windshield. Everything functions up to the AAM (all activity module) but no 12v output from the Xenon headlamp power circuit in the AAM. I'm not certain but the next time I have that module out, I'm going to jump those 2 small fuses and see if that resolves the low beam headlamp problem.