I have a tv with an 18N50 that blew. I have access to a 24N50. Could I use the 24N50 instead? The characteristics look the same but just the 24 amp drain current and the rds is is a little lower.
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Re: 18n50 or 24N50
Higher drain current is good, lower RDS is better. Higher input C is something to consider. If the replacement MOSFET's input capacitance is too high, and the driver circuit is weak, the MOSFET won't turn on completely. Not turning on completely means high RDS, which means high heat, which means . . .
That being said, it's HIGHLY unlikely that the difference between two like parts from the same series would be a problem, you could probably put two or more in parallel and still not have any problem. -
Re: 18n50 or 24N50
Thanks. I thought of that but for what it's worth, I'll just order new ones from digikey. Then there will be no doubt.Comment
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Hello guys,
I have a shorted MOSFET K8A60DA with the following characteristics:
Type Designator: TK8A60DA
Marking Code: K8A60DA
Type of Transistor: MOSFET
Type of Control Channel: N -Channel
Maximum Power Dissipation (Pd): 45 W
Maximum Drain-Source Voltage |Vds|: 600 V
Maximum Gate-Source Voltage |Vgs|: 30 V
Maximum Gate-Threshold Voltage |Vgs(th)|: 4 V
Maximum Drain Current |Id|: 7.5 A
Maximum Junction Temperature (Tj): 150 °C
Total Gate Charge (Qg): 20 nC
Rise Time (tr): 25 nS
Drain-Source... -
Trying to learn electronics repair as a hobby. I have no formal training in electronics, circuits, etc. Everything I know, which isn't much, has been learned from watching youtube videos, reading books, forums, etc. This means, sometimes I have a hard time understanding and interpreting what's important when I look at datasheets, and such.
My brother has a TV that I'm working on now. He said he was watching it, he heard a loud pop and it went off. I used my DMM to check the fuse, it was blown. From watching lots of hours of electronics repairs on youtube, I figured that was just a...07-07-2025, 07:38 PM -
Hello everyone,
I'm working on repairing a Music Store Professional GO! SUB 18A bass subwoofer, and I need some help troubleshooting an issue with the power amplifier board. The board uses an IR2153 driver and originally had two SLW20N50C MOSFETs. Unfortunately, these MOSFETs burned out. I replaced them with two TK20J60W MOSFETs; however, these also failed almost immediately.
Here are some details:- SLW20N50C (original):
- Rated for 500 V
- Typical RDS(ON): 0.21 Ω
- Continuous Drain Current: 20 A at 25°C (13 A at 100°C)
- Pulsed Drain Current: 80 A
- Avalanche
- SLW20N50C (original):
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Note to mods: please remove the first thread i posted. It had crappy title. Hopefully this will make some powermac expert look at it more likely
So i bought PowerMac G5, which worked for around an hour. Then i decided to partially strip it down and re-paste CPU, after which it still worked. However just after i added DDR2 memory into it and connected it to 220v, the mac made a loud pop noise, diagnostic leds on the front side of motherboard shortly blinked and since then, the power mac has no signs of life at all
PSU is API4fS13. There is no visibly broken component... -
I'm trying to see if someone could help me with my Asus Zenbook 13 UX 333F with given symptoms that I've experience during a recent external short.
During last laptop charge, as I was moving the DC power supply, I caused the two leads (+ -) to touch. After that event the laptop stopped charging and pulling amps form the power supply. The only way the laptop will come on is with the power supply connected and the battery having some charge to it, battery drains immediately after short operation (it gets to Windows log in screen before it shuts off). The laptop would power on, show...
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