When I use UV curable solder mask I find it is too thick. Is there a suitable thinner that that would duplicate factory look and remain curable.
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Can someone recommend any good UV solder mask? But i need a solder mask that will stand high temperetures. The thing is...sometimes i have a bigger cooper ripped from the board, lets say mosfet pad... i reconstract it with cooper sheet, then i "glue it" with solder mask...then i use UV light...and let it cool a bit. After, i try to clean the cooper of extra solder mask..and till that part all is ok. But, when i use a soldering iron to solder that pad/cooper...the solder mask gets weaker or destroyed and finally the pad is ripped again from the board .
Is there any solder mask... -
This is a guide that I am writing for helping others to replace their MEC1503 EC chip if it breaks (or to get around an inconvenient prompt to the BIOS). This forum has been extremely helpful to me so I would like to contribute to help others. I will tell you right now that this task is very difficult to do. You MUST have experience and tools to do precision micro-soldering, BGA reballing, trace repair, and general laptop repair skills.
There are some specialty tools needed to do this task. The replacement MEC1503 chips can be acquired from Aliexpress. Do not buy the bare chips as... -
Hello, I'm a beginner for micro soldering. Right now I have some difficult to solder a qfn 20, I guess I put too much solder on the thermal-ground pad, the result is a corner of chip wich don't touch the board (last try).
I use a wire solder with hot air, I tin the board and chip before with iron and I use good flux.
I will have to solder a LVDS connector (40 pins, laptop pc), I saw a solder paste in seringe, good quality (it does not scatter).
See the test :
https://youtu.be/bNAzC-EvqHs?t=1767
With hot air from bellow the board, that's... -
I'm trying to fix a broken MacBook Air, and got a parts board to salvage components from. Following the suggestions of many folks here, I wanted to get in a little practice of using my hot air station (A Quick 957DW+) on the parts board so I know what kind of behavior to expect.
For the life of me, I can't get anything done with this thing. I have tried multiple temperatures (from 210-425c), different air speeds, preheating the board (with the hot air, just warming it all around). I have applied what feels like excessive amounts of flux (Amtech V2-TF-559) and the solder on these components... -
Hello out there in Badcap land.
I have a Pioneer plasma that gave me the dreaded 8 red blink and shutdown, I have been trying to trace the failure points. On my last inspection while replacing a Y Sustain Board I noticed on the original and replacement board some missing solder, the points of connection
are from the Digital Address Board and the Buffer Boards. I have included the pictures, should I resolder these points or are they unsoldered intentionally? Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you
Pixelcap...
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