Like I said earlier I would recap the temperature controller board you can reach the pins of the caps because the pins do not go very far on the other side board because of the LCD display
that is why the caps are not flush with the board
The easiest way to get the caps off the board is heat the pad and tilt the cap to one side then heat the other pad and gently pull out the cap from the board
...
You will know if you have older version is when you turn it on it might turn off then turn right back on and might keep doing this a few times before it will stay on
The older version was used with the transformer the new version uses the switching power supply
The difference between the two is that older version the heater comes on right a way on the newer version there is a delay before the heater comes on
From what it looks like either they had a lot of the older controllers or they did not realize that you can not turn the heater on right a way so they wrote a new version of the program to fix this problem so some of the unit have this problem
We have a JAKEC 330 uf and a Fencon 100uf cap here, both are 25v
Do these need to be low esr? i assume they should be upgraded to 35v
should these be used?
EKYB350ELL331MH20D 330uf KYB 35v
EKYB350ELL101MF11D 100uf KYB 35v
I understand the ones in the PSU should be 35v, but since the psu outputs 18v, shouldn't 25v be good as the voltage SHOULD be regulated and smoothed out at this point?
does this look like a old or new controller? *points at photo that turned out wonderful*
I have a pair of pace SX80 solder extractors, there is the option to use a glass collection tube or or a cardboard collection tube of which I have around 50. Although with care the cardboard solder collectors can be opened and emptied.
We have a JAKEC 330 uf and a Fencon 100uf cap here, both are 25v
Do these need to be low esr? i assume they should be upgraded to 35v
should these be used?
EKYB350ELL331MH20D 330uf KYB 35v
EKYB350ELL101MF11D 100uf KYB 35v
I understand the ones in the PSU should be 35v, but since the psu outputs 18v, shouldn't 25v be good as the voltage SHOULD be regulated and smoothed out at this point?
does this look like a old or new controller? *points at photo that turned out wonderful*
“STJ
18v output.
25v caps - hell no.
for smoothing 18v you want 35v caps.
old rule, a smoothing cap should be atleast 1.5x running voltage to handle the spikes.
18+9=27
that's far too close!
also, if it pulses the element with DC does it have a reverse protection diode? “
I would use 35 volt on the temperature controller board
You will not know which version of the program it is load until you power up the unit the temperature controller board look alike
I am going to get a zd915 for Christmas, so those links would be useful
I know you said you replaced the caps in it's PSU would you happen to have cap part numbers or specs? I will need to make sure the PSU is the same in this unit, but if they are that would be a time saver
18v output.
25v caps - hell no.
for smoothing 18v you want 35v caps.
old rule, a smoothing cap should be atleast 1.5x running voltage to handle the spikes.
18+9=27
that's far too close!
Lol, that's not even close to being "too close".
That old "1.5x rule" comes from a time before switchmode power supplies existed. It has mostly to do with the fact that linear power supplies (i.e. a simple line transformer with a rectifier behind it) would output a much higher voltage when unloaded than when loaded. This is especially common with small "wall wart" -type of transformers that have poor load regulation. Hence the 1.5x voltage rating.
Also, during the early 2000's, it was common to see caps on many motherboards with much higher voltage that what the circuit needed. This was done because there weren't as many (and as good) types of low ESR capacitors as there are today. When you move to a higher voltage electrolytic cap, its size increases. This increase in the can size reduces the ESR and increases the ripple current handling capability. So in short, you get a cap with lower ESR without having to resort to a higher capacity cap.
Both of these design strategies are outdated and unnecessary when it comes to choosing caps for a switchmode power supply today. So there is absolutely NO NEED to go with the "1.5x voltage rule".
Thus, for a regulated power supply, the voltage rating of your caps really only needs to be about 20% higher than the circuit voltage.
Now, if you want to talk about cutting it close... I repaired an active amp speaker set last month which had 63V-rated caps on its LINEAR PSU filter a voltage rail that was about 59-60V. Now THAT is close. But guess what, even those caps lasted almost 20 years in that spot. And they were CapXon. After nearly 20 years, only one of the four failed. That's not too terrible, IMHO.
Seems i have a U3 controller
I had a unexpected job for it this morning
Replace relay in a abnormal failure state, while the coil was in the off state the resistance was 50k ohm; conclusion spring failure or weak contact due to AC arc damage
I had a unexpected job for it this morning
Replace relay in a abnormal failure state, while the coil was in the off state the resistance was 50k ohm; conclusion spring failure or weak contact due to AC arc damage
What is the voltage of the coil 50k ohm was the coil resistance measurement with coil on the board or off the board
typical cheap ebay blue relay: SRD-05VDC-SLC
That was not coil resistance, that was the resistance on the output while the coil is low
the coil works fine, when the coil has power on it it functions as intended
let me use a diagram
50Kohm between C (Common) and NC (Normally Closed)
test was done in board, but i have C, NO, and NC all on pin headers, so i just unplugged my wires on it and checked the connectivity
It was not able to get every last spec of solder off every pin of the relay (4/5 worked good), but when i put these relays in i had to adjust the pin so they slice into the PCB hole a little, they are just not made for the 2.54mm board, but the pins can be bent a little to make them fit, but it is tight
if one of these relays fails like this again i am gonna cut the shell open and try some contact cleaner on the contacts
I checked the AC voltage, it is ~27VAC, as for the amperage, idk, but a piece of solid core Ethernet cable wire does not even get warm
The two 2200uf@35 volt caps are a FR series will be the only that will right
right now I cannot find the bag tag for those caps that I had used 3300@35 volts I will see if I can find the ones that I used
You are right I did buy them at Mouser Electronic because DigiKey did not carry them
note that they are 2200 not 3300 uf
i think that is why you had a hard time trying to find a 12.5mm dia 3300 uf cap
BTW do you have a link so i can pick up some spare tips for the zd-915
i do not think i need to get a full repair kit since i have a glass tube right? just filters right?
i know you prefer the plastic design, and i do agree the it holds the filter better
i kinda want to mod the spring to make it stay in the center to keep from getting puled around the filter (ideas?)
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