Oscilloscope Selection - Hantek DSO2D15

[FALKLAN]

Howdy all!

I'm a newb concerning electronics repair and I'm looking at a Hantek DSO2D15 oscilloscope. It's on sale for a good price IMO. I'm asking any feedback concerning this device and a few power supplies if anyone is willing the help an old tech.

The Hantek seems like a decent machine for $175 new. I'm also looking at a 60v 24a power supply for $60. Sound like a good deal?

[stj]

Hantek are junk.
save up and get the new 12bit Rigol DHO804
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testge...nbox-teardown/

it's already been hacked from 70 to over 200MHz
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testge...o800900-scope/

[Francesc V.]

That junk you mention has 150Mhz 🤣

If he is going to use it for repairing amplifiers and PSUs it's more than decent..............for other high frequency signals, there are better options.

I own a FNIRSI 1014d and this is really junk..........it claims 100Mhz but average maybe it's 30Mhz. 🙄

[stj]

i had a hantek, the electronics are fine but the software in them is a joke.
compare the trigger options in a Hantek to a Rigol or a Siglent

and this is the first 12bit scope in the price range of average people too.
if i didnt have a rigol DS1000z series i would have already ordered this new one.

[FALKLAN]

Thanks for the feedback! 👍

Everything I get will be used for testing and checking automotive control module circuitry. I'm starting with automotive power distribution.

[stj]

well the DHO804 can be hacked to decode CANBUS
but if you dont need that then you may be better off with a pocket scope from zeewei

[FALKLAN]

I'm working on a Mercedes and yes I will be working on the CANbus occasionally. I've been troubleshooting the Xenon headlamp power circuit. No voltage from the AAM to the EAM so that's where I'm working atm.

The red lines are where the current stops and the green area has voltage throughout that area. I need a power supply for bench testing and that's why I requested some feedback on equipment. Testing that while it's in the vehicle is not fun because that module lives just beneath the engine compartment fuse box.

[stj]

good luck,
car companies work really hard at making modules hard to repair

[FALKLAN]

This may not be a faulty circuit. I was studying about a specific DTC concerning the headlamp zero leveling and I have the same problem one person had a while back. He took some measurements, adjusted the front suspension to +1 inch lift to match the rear and poof! Fixed. WTF I'm going to take measurements tomorrow while installing a new a s-belt to see if there is a height difference.

[stj]

do you have acess to a STAR or some equivelent?
a lot of merc stuff is programmable

[FALKLAN]

I use a 2023 Launch CRE for Benz and it does almost everything needed. I've programmed replacement used TCM, reset adaptation data and even learned new key fob transmitter with a tool that was a buck twenty. BTW resolving the out-of-spec leveling didn't resolve the headlight problem but I believe I know why and a few simple tests will confirm the theory.

Thanks for the feedback concerning my first scope purchase. I'm going to take that advice and get a Rigol DH0814.

😁🤙

[stj]

headlight leveling must be based on feedback from the suspension ride heights so maybe a sensor is dirty or worn

[FALKLAN]

The front suspension -1" when compared to the rear so I increased it to match the rear. I d/c the rear sensor looking for corrosion or anything in the connector. Everything was clean and both front/rear sensors did respond to the adjustment. Still no low beams.

I was considering the DHO814 but since 804 can be hacked and decode CANbus comms, the 804 will suffice and be more than I'll ever need.

It's been a CANbus 101 weekend for me.

[stj]

the only difference between the 804, 814 and 824 is a software setting
the only differences between the 804 and the 900 series is the signal generator and logic analyser circuits - and a software setting
so an 804 becomes a 924 250MHz scope with canbus, just no sig-gen or logic analyser - or does it?
becausde the logic part is on the board - you potentially just need to add the socket!! this is being activly looked into.
go look at eevblog forums