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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,372
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![]() This thing is absolutely amazing! Well worth the $179. I'm supposed to be saving up for an oscilloscope but I decided I could use this more. I've been doing a lot of rework on sustain boards and I'm just sick of struggling with desoldering braid and vacuum pens. So far, I've tested it on a TNPA3557 SC board I'm working on. MOSFETs just drop right out of the board. Takes about 3-5 seconds to melt the solder. No problems even on multi-layer boards. I was going to buy one of those cheap S-993A guns but I found this thread which made me change my mind. I think those S-993A things have been modified to work on 110v. I find it odd that the 110v and 220v versions have the exact same model number. My guess is that they've just changed the cord, so you're supplying 110v to a 220v element and only getting half the power, so 50w instead of 100w. Just speculation, but the people who've used the 220v version seem satisfied with the way they work. The specs on this 8800 are a bit misleading. The power supply is rated for 150w, so it's advertised as a 150w desoldering pump. In actuality, the gun only draws 100 watts. It's got a temp range of 200°C -480°C / 392°F - 896°F. One think I really love is the all metal holder.
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#2 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2004
City & State: North Springfield, Vermont
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 118-127V 59-63.5 Hz-> actualizo: pérdido de voltaje
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 6,029
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![]() Isn't that 250W at 125V?
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#3 |
Never Give Up !
Join Date: May 2014
City & State: Telford
My Country: Britain
Line Voltage: 240 VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 7,232
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![]() Nice I use a Duratool Zd915 desoldering station it as well as yours isnt any hakko but has great thermal capacity and sucks up the solder like a champ, mine only cost £67 but has been one of the most useful tools I could have brought and makes my life alot easier
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#4 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,372
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#5 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,372
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#6 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 5,336
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![]() Congratulations, nice bit of kit.
I've seen a short review of the FR-300, this definitely looks to be a much better deal. The question is, will you be able to get parts for it in 20 years like you can with Hakko. There are methods of removing sustain boards without a desoldering vacuum, but it involves breaking the pins.
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#7 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,372
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Generally, when I'm troubleshooting, I try to reuse parts which aren't bad. Especially considering that most parts have to be ordered from China. |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
City & State: Nelson BC
My Country: Canada
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 104
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![]() Nice toy!! Old saying goes, " you get what you pay for" I've been there done that with cheap irons. Frustrated as hell, not being able to get them hot enough etc....repair enough of them, it will pay for itself!! As for an ossiliscope, not sure how keen you are on used?? I did find mine at a local thrift shop for $35. Guess I got lucky?? Been working perfectly 2+ years
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#9 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2004
City & State: North Springfield, Vermont
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 118-127V 59-63.5 Hz-> actualizo: pérdido de voltaje
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 6,029
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#10 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,372
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![]() Also, on a single layer board this thing melts the solder instantly. I just swapped out a transformer and fixed a power supply in under a minute. Score 1 for the 8800!
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#11 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,372
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#12 |
EVs Rule
Join Date: Apr 2011
City & State: Leeds
My Country: UK
Line Voltage: 230Vac 50Hz
I'm a: Professional Tech
Posts: 32,373
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![]() You won't regret the 1054Z, it's great scope... I have a 1074Z.. I kinda regret not waiting a few months for the 1054Z to come out, what a bargain at that price, but anyway
I've never been a good fan of Aoyue stuff when my Aoyue 968 station encountered all sorts of problems. In the 12 months that I owned it, the hot air heating element failed twice, the soldering iron once, and the display kept going blank or showing crazy temperatures that I knew were wrong. I hope the 8800 is better for you.
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#13 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,372
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![]() If this thing lasts a year, I'll be happy. It will pay for itself within that time, and then I can get a Hakko.
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#14 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2010
City & State: Federal Way,WA
My Country: United States
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,329
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![]() I've had an Aoyue 852A++ hot air station for a few years. Not bad, but I'd probably buy something different if I had it to do over. Hopefully, the desoldering gun works out. I've had a Hakko 808 for a while, and I never use an iron to desolder through-hole components anymore.
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#15 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2013
City & State: Buffalo, NY
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,372
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#16 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Feb 2010
City & State: S.F. Bay area
My Country: USA
Line Voltage: 120V 60Hz
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 39,206
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I took it apart when I received it to verify that the Line, Neutral, and GND, and the rest of the unit are put it together. The first thing I notice is that the nylon standoff that hold the PCBA on the rear panel were all broken so the board was just sitting inside. I notified them but did not get the response. I replaced the standoff with better version. The units works well for me, and the heater assembly also looks good. Here are the pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/user/bud...?sort=3&page=1
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Never stop learning Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides. http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956 Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999 Inverter testing using old CFL: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/ TV Factory reset codes listing: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809 |
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#17 | |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2010
City & State: Federal Way,WA
My Country: United States
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,329
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![]() Quote:
Last edited by capkid; 02-25-2015 at 11:38 PM.. |
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#18 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2013
City & State: Windsor ON
My Country: Canada
I'm a: Knowledge Seeker
Posts: 3,006
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![]() Removed another IPM from an LG sustain board last night with the trusty paint remover. Jesus would one of these come in handy. Just about turned the board into charcoal in the process, will have to look into the proper tool for the job.
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#19 | |
Never Give Up !
Join Date: May 2014
City & State: Telford
My Country: Britain
Line Voltage: 240 VAC 50Hz
I'm a: Student Tech
Posts: 7,232
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#20 |
Badcaps Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2010
City & State: Federal Way,WA
My Country: United States
Line Voltage: 120VAC 60Hz
I'm a: Hobbyist Tech
Posts: 1,329
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![]() Yes, a desoldering gun makes removing IPMs MUCH easier. One thing I like to do when removing IPMs is to add a little solder to each pin before using the gun so that it flows better and the holes are cleaner. Also, I use a heat gun on a low setting to heat four to five pins at a time so the solder melts easier.
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