Choosing the right replacement cap

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • bertnz
    New Member
    • Sep 2015
    • 5
    • New Zealand

    #1

    Choosing the right replacement cap

    Hi,

    Apologies for the n00b and probably repetitive question here. I figure I'd rego and post a question or two to make sure I'm going to get this right first time. I'm going to replace a couple of caps on an IBM server motherboard. They're not part of the VRM (from what I can guess) but I could be wrong.
    One cap is bad, it has leaked brown stuff over the green PCB. The other cap ... well it's probably gonna go bad at some stage so might as well "upgrade" that too



    I've identified the bad capacitor as a Nippon Chemi-Con 1500uF 10V KZG which according to the specs sheet has 0.021 impedance and 1870mA RMS ripple current.
    ref: https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...c7199f48e3.pdf

    Reading the forums, the KZG series has a bad rep so I'll replace two caps though only one has gone bad at this stage.

    What I've been able to ascertain so far - and please correct me if I'm wrong:

    I need a 10V or higher cap.
    I need a 1500uf cap.
    I need a low impedance cap (0.021 or lower)
    I need a rated ripple current that's AT LEAST 1870mA RMS.

    I've found a three possibilities in the on-line New Zealand RS catalogue, but I'm not sure which one would be best - well, I can guess, but I'd like confirmation or a "no get this one instead" since this is a motherboard after all.

    1. A Panasonic FC (NHG according to the datasheet) - but it's ripple current isn't high enough:
    http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/alumin...itors/4490924/

    2. A Panasonic FM - seem's perfect but it's ripple current rating is quite a bit higher.
    http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/alumin...itors/5261137/

    3. A Nichicon HE - seems the closest in terms of ripple current rating but twice the impedance.
    http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/alumin...itors/4909620/

    Looking in the badcaps shop the closest I can find is a Nichicon HZ or Rubyon MCZ, but I don't really know how to compare them against the Panasonic and Nichicon offerings I can get locally.

    Or would a polymer 6.3V polymer cap do? https://www.badcaps.net/store/produc...roducts_id=134

    Cheers and thanks in advance.
    Attached Files
  • ReeceyBurger123
    Never Give Up !
    • May 2014
    • 7325
    • Britain

    #2
    Re: Choosing the right replacement cap

    Unfortunately non of the caps listed are the correct ones. Can you find Nichicon Hm or Hz they will work ? You need to find caps with the same if not lower esr than Kzg.
    Last edited by ReeceyBurger123; 09-13-2015, 04:21 AM.
    Please Do Not PM My Page Asking For Help Badcaps Is The Place For Advise, Page Linked For Business Reasons Only. Anyone Doing So Will Be Banned Instantly !

    https://www.facebook.com/Telford-Tel...7894576335359/

    Comment

    • bertnz
      New Member
      • Sep 2015
      • 5
      • New Zealand

      #3
      Re: Choosing the right replacement cap

      Hi and thanks for the reply.

      How do you find (or work out) the ESR spec for the KZG series caps? It's not listed on the datasheet.

      Mouser electronics only have 6.3V 1500 uF Nichicon HM or HZs.

      Am I better off just trying to find replacement Nippon Chemi-Con KZG's?

      Comment

      • stj
        Great Sage 齊天大聖
        • Dec 2009
        • 31015
        • Albion

        #4
        Re: Choosing the right replacement cap

        ESR = Impedance.

        btw, when your looking for a replacement.
        ESR can be lower but never higher.
        ripple can be higher but never lower

        Comment

        • budm
          Badcaps Legend
          • Feb 2010
          • 40746
          • USA

          #5
          Re: Choosing the right replacement cap

          http://www.murata.com/en-us/products...en-20130214-p1



          https://cdn.badcaps-static.com/pdfs/...f6d3e3e891.pdf



          http://www.gamry.com/application-not...-spectroscopy/
          Attached Files
          Last edited by budm; 09-13-2015, 02:34 PM.
          Never stop learning
          Basic LCD TV and Monitor troubleshooting guides.
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...956#post305956

          Voltage Regulator (LDO) testing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...999#post300999

          Inverter testing using old CFL:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthr...er+testing+cfl

          Tear down pictures : Hit the ">" Show Albums and stories" on the left side
          http://s807.photobucket.com/user/budm/library/

          TV Factory reset codes listing:
          http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24809

          Comment

          • mariushm
            Badcaps Legend
            • May 2011
            • 3799

            #6
            Re: Choosing the right replacement cap

            stj : ESR = Impedance.
            Not true, but close enough. ESR is the sum of impedance and something else, and that something else is practically zero at switching frequencies commonly found in computer power supplies, motherboards, monitors etc. So for simplicity, it's safe to assume impedance is equal to ESR when you read the information from the datasheets. Just look at the column named Impedance measured at normal temperatures and 100 kHz.

            Note that ESR and impedance also varies with the capacitor's dimensions (height, diameter) so it's often possible to use larger capacitors to reach (or get very close to) the specifications you need.

            The ripple value must be equal or higher than the old capacitor.
            The ESR should be as close as possible or lower.

            Since computers work in general with 3 main voltages (3.3v , 5v and 12v) it's safe to say that capacitor is most likely used on 3.3v or 5v, so it would be safe to use a capacitor rated for only 6.3v in that position.
            However, since there is room around the capacitor for a larger diameter one, you could use one rated for 10v or 16v or even 25v - the voltage rating on a capacitor simply tells you the maximum voltage the capacitor is capable of tolerating without getting damaged.

            If you go with polymer capacitors, it's generally (but NOT always, depends on circuit) safe to replace existing electrolytic capacitors with polymer capacitors of slightly lower capacitance. For example, i'm about 90% sure you could use a 1200 uF 6.3v polymer capacitor there, instead of an electrolytic capacitor.

            Panasonic FR 1500/16 or Panasonic FM 1500/10 or 1500/16 will work but you have to buy pack of 10:
            FR 1500/16 : http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/alumin...itors/7083664/
            FM 1500/16 : http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/alumin...itors/5261294/

            While they're not quite matching the specs (ripple and esr), I think Panasonic FR 1500/10 should also work, the specs are close enough and the price is better: http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/alumin...itors/7083550/

            In the polymer capacitors area, you have this 1500 uF 6.3v one, and you can buy it in packs of 2 : http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/alumin...itors/7955673/
            Last edited by mariushm; 09-13-2015, 05:53 PM.

            Comment

            • stj
              Great Sage 齊天大聖
              • Dec 2009
              • 31015
              • Albion

              #7
              Re: Choosing the right replacement cap

              Originally posted by mariushm
              Not true, but close enough. ESR is the sum of impedance and something else,
              i wasnt looking for a science lesson, i was simply pointing out why he couldnt find "ESR" in the datasheets.

              Comment

              • bertnz
                New Member
                • Sep 2015
                • 5
                • New Zealand

                #8
                Re: Choosing the right replacement cap

                Hi,

                stj: Thanks - that's a clear and helpful pointer RE ESR can be lower, ripple must be higher.

                budm: Thanks for the references. While I haven't read through all those docs, I found this particularly humorous in the Tantalum cap section of the CDE.com guide:
                Strengths are temperature stability, volumetric efficiency and compatibility with all automated assembly systems.
                Weaknesses are the limited voltage and capacitance ranges and a short-circuit failure mode accompanied by catching fire.

                I have an old old old XT board that I suspect has some bad tantalum caps on it. Will tackle that once I get serious with some some testing equipment and have a lot of spare time.

                mariushm: Thank so much for taking the time finding those options. I hadn't yet thought about trying 16V caps to find a better match for ESR/Impedance. Cheers for that. Interesting to know you figure a Panasonic FM 1500/10 would work, but taking into consideration the impedance is a little bit lower than the FR 1500/16, so I'll go with the FR 1500/16. It's impedance is almost a perfect match and it has a fair bit of ripple current headroom. I don't mind getting 10, means I can frack up 8 of them :-)

                RE the polymer option, the Panasonic OS-CON 1500μF 6.3 V has an ESR of 10mΩ (making it 0.01, right?) which is half that of the original cap. Is that really OK?

                Thanks again guys.

                Comment

                • ReeceyBurger123
                  Never Give Up !
                  • May 2014
                  • 7325
                  • Britain

                  #9
                  Re: Choosing the right replacement cap

                  Originally posted by stj
                  i wasnt looking for a science lesson, i was simply pointing out why he couldnt find "ESR" in the datasheets.
                  Haha lol easy now lads
                  Please Do Not PM My Page Asking For Help Badcaps Is The Place For Advise, Page Linked For Business Reasons Only. Anyone Doing So Will Be Banned Instantly !

                  https://www.facebook.com/Telford-Tel...7894576335359/

                  Comment

                  Related Topics

                  Collapse

                  • DaveHarry
                    Seeking replacement for EOL Nichicon PLV1J220MCL1TD. Found APAQ and ELITE (CHINSAN)
                    by DaveHarry
                    Hi group,

                    I am looking for a replacement for Nichicon PLV1J220MCL1TD (22uF, 63V, Conductive Poymer Aluminum Solid Electrolytic, 8x9 but we can go up to 8x11).

                    While searching, I found some APAQ and ELITE replacements that would fit on our products (APAQ ARHA series and ELITE UGT and UPD series).

                    How good are these brand/series and what other alternative would you recommend? I've searched the big name already and didn't find an equivalent.

                    Thanks!
                    05-27-2024, 08:08 AM
                  • JohnsonJ
                    Allen&Heath XONE92 DJ mixer repair
                    by JohnsonJ
                    Hello everyone.

                    I'm having issues with my DJ mixer, and after taking it apart and checking everything out, it seems that I need to replace 2 rotary potentiometers for the filter, and that the PSU has some caps burned. Hopefully these 2 fixes will solve my issues.

                    The potentiometers I will just replace (hopefully the repairman I spoke with will indeed send me the spares, in case he doesn't, I'll update here if we can find a suitable replacement), but for the PSU caps I'd kindly ask you forum members, if anyone could help guide me in the right direction. I'm having difficulty...
                    12-12-2020, 11:19 AM
                  • quickname
                    Cyberpower 1500AVR UPS repair
                    by quickname
                    I'd like to start out by thanking this forum for providing the info to be able to repair my 15 year old CP1500AVRLCD UPS. Here is all the info I gathered during my trouble-shooting and re-capping.

                    Like clockwork, I've had to replace the SLA batteries every 4 years. It was about that time and the UPS was acting like it needed new batteries... randomly shutting off with AC present, not being able to charge fully, and poor runtime when AC was removed. So, I replaced the batteries but noticed that it was not charging properly.

                    I decided to verify that the batteries were...
                    11-12-2023, 09:57 AM
                  • SwedishDiesel
                    Dell Optiplex GX260 - Advice Needed for Polymodding Motherboard
                    by SwedishDiesel
                    Howdy folks,

                    I have an Optiplex GX260 that blew a couple of those troublesome Nichicon HM series (ultra low ESR) electrolytic capacitors. Because said caps are obsolete, they are pretty much impossible to find on the market; I did find a listing for some but I believe they are counterfeit. I feel the easiest thing to do would be to replace all the blown caps with polymer ones. I am by no means an expert in electronics, and I've found a fair bit of conflicting information, so any guidance or confirmation would be greatly appreciated. While from a practical standpoint it's not worth...
                    10-30-2021, 12:47 AM
                  • nick3092
                    Mid/late 80's Nichicon Yellow Caps
                    by nick3092
                    I recently acquired a set of Bose Roomate speakers from the mid to late 80's. Basically the right speaker cabinet is completely passive, and the left one has the power transformer and amplifier circuit in it. Out of curiosity, I opened it up to see what the circuit looked like. Looks like they used all Nichicon VX (2x 4700uF/16v for smoothing off the bridge rectifier), a couple random Nichicon SE series sprinkled on the board, and what really caught my eye - 2 yellow sleeved Nichicon caps (both 1uF/50v with no real series marking. Below are pictures of the caps. The only thing not shown in these...
                    08-28-2022, 03:56 PM
                  • Loading...
                  • No more items.
                  Working...