Lytic vs Polymer? Why don't they match?

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  • AlwaysJoe
    New Member
    • Oct 2011
    • 2

    #1

    Lytic vs Polymer? Why don't they match?

    I have a Dell Optiplex SX 280, with several blown and leaking caps.

    I'm not an electrician and never did any board work, but figured ... what the heck, I've got nothing really to lose.

    I was about to purchase the recommended polymer cap package (because of the higher thermal rating) but then noticed that the values (uF) for serveral of the poly caps were significanlty lower than the original and replacment lytic caps.

    This gave me pause because I seem to remember that a replacment cap's value should be as close a possible to the original, and the voltage of any replacement at least as high as the original.

    Given the well-known cap problem with this model Dell, I'm sure that the badcaps.net recommended poly cap replacment values are OK, but would appreciate a little education on why they would work. Thanks!
  • c_hegge
    Badcaps Legend
    • Sep 2009
    • 5219
    • Australia

    #2
    Re: Lytic vs Polymer? Why don't they match?

    The poly kit would be fine. topcat doesn't offer polymer kits unless they have been properly tested on a few machines.
    I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

    No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

    Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

    Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

    Comment

    • mockingbird
      Badcaps Legend
      • Dec 2008
      • 5484
      • -

      #3
      Re: Lytic vs Polymer? Why don't they match?

      Halving the capacitance on the VRM is common practice with polymers...

      I think the reasoning behind this is that motherboard VRM caps are secondary or tertiary filtering caps, and low ESR is a lot more important than microfarads...

      The polymers that are placed there in their stead have a significantly lower ESR... The electrolytic VRM caps are ultra-low ESR as it is... Only polymers can go lower than say Rubycon MFZ/Nichicon HZ/ Samxon GA class.

      Comment

      • david38c63
        New Member
        • Oct 2011
        • 4

        #4
        Re: Lytic vs Polymer? Why don't they match?

        Tell me what cap manufacturer do you recommend for recapping my Asrock mother boards? I got rid of my Dells I like what you said about Dells you are so right. Let me know

        Dave

        Comment

        • c_hegge
          Badcaps Legend
          • Sep 2009
          • 5219
          • Australia

          #5
          Re: Lytic vs Polymer? Why don't they match?

          Rubycon, Nichicon, Panasonic, Samxon or Sanyo/Suncon. The series is more important, though, than the manufacturer. For Ruby, use MBZ or MCZ, for Nichicon, use HM or HN, for Panny, use FJ and FL (good luck sourcing them, though), for samxon, use GC and GC series and for Sanyo/Suncon, use WG series.
          I love putting bad caps and flat batteries in fire and watching them explode!!

          No wonder it doesn't work! You installed the jumper wires backwards

          Main PC: Core i7 3770K 3.5GHz, Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP, 8GB Kingston HyperX DDR3 1600, 240GB Intel 335 Series SSD, 750GB WD HDD, Sony Optiarc DVD RW, Palit nVidia GTX660 Ti, CoolerMaster N200 Case, Delta DPS-600MB 600W PSU, Hauppauge TV Tuner, Windows 7 Home Premium

          Office PC: HP ProLiant ML150 G3, 2x Xeon E5335 2GHz, 4GB DDR2 RAM, 120GB Intel 530 SSD, 2x 250GB HDD, 2x 450GB 15K SAS HDD in RAID 1, 1x 2TB HDD, nVidia 8400GS, Delta DPS-650BB 650W PSU, Windows 7 Pro

          Comment

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