Repairing VP2030B

[brokenwall]

Yes I have another one of these monitors with the same issues. It started by powering on but being dim and then getting to its full brightness after a couple minutes. As time went on it would not come on until a couple minutes after pressing the power button. This got worse as time went by and I looked it up and found this place and saw the great help others got so I figured, why not fix this issue myself. I paid about $700 for this monitor over 3 years ago and if its easy to fix by re-soldering some caps then why not at least give it a shot. So I decided to at least take it apart and see if i noticed any bad caps at first before buying anything. Well I took pictures (sorry I forgot to take my tripod with my camera) and I wrote down the cap numbers and the models.

First off, here is a copy of the service manual incase anyone needs it: VP2030B Service Manual

The first caps I noticed were on the LCD Power board (for the panel and backlight)


They are: 3x 180μF 35v (located: C1 , C2 , C3)



The other ones I found were on the mainboard.




They are: 2x 1000μF 6.3v (located: C206 , C216)
They are: 6x 100μF 25v (located: C180 , C181 , C187 , C188 , C184 , C185)

--Also I noticed when I picked up the mainboard there was a rattle (like a small ball inside a plastic box) sound, I was not able to tell where it was coming from and I checked and there was no loose parts.

The USB Board, Main AC board did not have any caps that appear bad. Both me and my father overlooked the caps and I only listed ones with slightly domed or worse tops to the caps.

Now I would perfer to buy my stuff from Element 14's store. Since they have good shipping rate and are in the US. I am just not sure what caps I should buy to replace the ones that are bad so I am asking for assistance on this part.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by brokenwall

Now I would perfer to buy my stuff from Element 14's store. Since they have good shipping rate and are in the US. I am just not sure what caps I should buy to replace the ones that are bad so I am asking for assistance on this part.

First, please don't post images inline as they slowdown loading. Use the manage attachment feature and they are hosted here as per

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1868

It looks like element 14's store has Panasonic, Rubycon, and United Chemi-Con low ESR series for caps. Either will do fine. For the actual series to buy, see this list of recommended caps at

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=2280

You can follow PlainBill's instructions for ordering caps (his are for digikey, but just transpose them for your store)

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpos...33&postcount=2

[brokenwall]

I was a bit worried mainly about ripple current and anything of that nature.

So could someone double check these caps before I order to make sure that fit what I should need.


Replace: 2x 1000uF 6.3v
http://us.element-14.com/panasonic/e...-3v/dp/32R8949

Replace: 6x 100uF 25v
http://us.element-14.com/rubycon/25y...25v/dp/38M3176

Replace: 3x 180uF 35v
http://us.element-14.com/panasonic/e...ial/dp/74R3456

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by brokenwall

I was a bit worried mainly about ripple current and anything of that nature.

See PCBONEZ talk about wrt to the above ...

http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpos...47&postcount=3

That means you will have to id the bad caps (manufacturer) and find the datasheets and compare with your choices.

So could someone double check these caps before I order to make sure that fit what I should need.


Replace: 2x 1000uF 6.3v
http://us.element-14.com/panasonic/e...-3v/dp/32R8949

Replace: 6x 100uF 25v
http://us.element-14.com/rubycon/25y...25v/dp/38M3176

Replace: 3x 180uF 35v
http://us.element-14.com/panasonic/e...ial/dp/74R3456

The Rubycon YXG is suitable (Panasonic FM 100uF 25V is available at digikey.com), but for Panasonic try to stick with FC or FM for low ESR. For the 1000uF 6.3V, you can substitute 1000uF 10V to see if you can get a Panasonic FC or FM series.

PS. I find http://us.element-14.com slow and more difficult to navigate so I didn't bother looking to hard.

[jetadm123]

Originally Posted by brokenwall

Now I would perfer to buy my stuff from Element 14's store. Since they have good shipping rate and are in the US. I am just not sure what caps I should buy to replace the ones that are bad so I am asking for assistance on this part.

Since you live in the US, you might reconsider and buy your caps from digikey.com. The selection is much better and shipping should cost under $3 if you select USPS First Class mail.

[retiredcaps]

Originally Posted by jetadm123

Since you live in the US, you might reconsider and buy your caps from digikey.com.

The digikey option yields (last one is FC) ...

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...name=P12340-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ords=P12924-ND

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...ords=P11235-ND

[smason]

Also, the rattle is normal, this monitor rotates from landscape to portrait I bet.

[momaka]

Originally Posted by retiredcaps

...but for Panasonic try to stick with FC or FM for low ESR.

FK is between FC and FM, so it should be fine too. A quick glance at the Panasonic FR datasheet shows they are just slightly higher ESR than the FM series, but they should be suitable too (of course unless the original caps are better than that - from the pictures, it looks like the inverter has CapXon GL, and the video board Teapo SC. I'll wait for brokenwall to confirm this, though).

[lucky13]

Brokenwall,

There are 3 more caps on the main board that you have not bulged up. They are 330uF caps. Replace them too.

Yes, those 3 caps on the inverter need to be changed.

[phive0]

My VP2030b appears to have a backlight issue. The screen stays dark when powered on. I suspect I have a bad inverter. I tried to take some voltage readings on the inverter inputs and outputs. The inputs to the inverter read around +20VDC, but I am pretty sure my cheap DMM won't read AC that at the frequency the inverter output runs at (90kHz). My meter reads zero AC volts on the output.

I inspected the caps throughout the various boards, and none seem bulged or leaking. I also read the caps on the inverter (in circuit) and I get around 652uF, since they all appear to be in parallel. My inverter has three 50V 220uF caps installed, not the 35V 180uF caps that appear in previous postings.

I had the monitor fail last year while it was still under warrany. None of the video inputs worked. Viewsonic repaired it under warranty, but I have no idea what they replaced. There are some caps on the main logic board that appear to have been replaced, since there is some flux smears on the back of the board and the caps do not match the ones around them.

[Wrog]

Link to the service manual is in post #1. Check for open fuses on the inverter board (should read close to 0 ohms). They are probably surface mount and close to the power connector. What does the power light do when you turn it on? Do you get a solid green with a signal present, or does it go into sleep mode after a few seconds? Have you tried measuring all of the power supply outputs to ensure they are solid (not fluctuating)?

[phive0]

I found a single SMD fuse that appears to be blown (open). It is marked "TP", so I assume it a 3.0A piece.

I am going to try to jumper it out just to see if the backlight comes on...

I get a solid green indication when the monitor is turned on and connected to a PC. It will go into sleep mode if no PC is connected.

[phive0]

I jumpered around F1 and the monitor powered up like normal.

Now I need to find a replacement F1 SMD fuse....


Thanks for the tip, Wrog!

[phive0]

I have decoded the "TP" to mean "time delay, 3A". The 3A makes sense because the inverter is rated at 54W. Since the input voltage is 20VDC, 3A would give 60W maximum power. The SMD fuse measures 3.2mm L x 1.6mm W.

I found this fuse at Mouser:

F1206SB3000V032T

32VDC, 3A Time Delay/Slow Blow

http://www.aem-usa.com/pdf/1206SB.pdf

Mouser wants $0.37/EA.

Does this sound like the fuse to get?

[Wrog]

Looks about right. If you are in the US, consider using Digikey (here is a link). If you select their first class shipping option, you'll get the part in 2-3 days and it will be very cheap shipping (under $2).

[phive0]

I am familiar with Digi-Key. I ended up going with Mouser. Their online catalog is easier to navigate and I don't think there is much difference in total cost once you factor in minimum buys, reel charges, shipping, etc.

[PlainBill]

Originally Posted by phive0

I am familiar with Digi-Key. I ended up going with Mouser. Their online catalog is easier to navigate and I don't think there is much difference in total cost once you factor in minimum buys, reel charges, shipping, etc.

Here's the comparison.

Digikey
2 ea SF-1206S300-2CT-ND @$.68 $1.36
Postage and handling for 8 oz (est) $2.41
Minimum order, service charge, etc. $0.00

Total $3.88; delivery in 2 days, including Saturday

Mouser
2 ea F1206SB3000V032T @ $.37 $.74
Shipping by USPS Priority Mail $6.95
Minimum order, service charge, etc. $0.00
Total $7.69; delivery in 2 days, including Saturday

PlainBill

[brokenwall]

I got my CAPs replaced today and the monitor comes right on now with no problems. My DVI is also now picking up the input on the first try. while removing one of the caps, while My father warmed up the solder and I pulled the cap out, one of the leads on the cap came right out of the cap without a problem and stayed in the board. Probably a big reason for some of my issues.

The caps I used were:

6x = 25YXG100M6.3x11 (100uF 25v)
2x = UHE0J102MPD1TD (1000uF 6.3V)
3x = ELXY350ELL181MH15D (180uF 35v)

I bought these at Element14's store and cost me $1.96 for all of them

(btw the rattle you hear on the logic board is the part that senses when the monitor is rotated and flips the image)

[locobri]

Thank you All, pioneers of VP2030B repairing.

Following your tips I managed to bring back to life a trash picked VP2030B.

The three 180uF caps on the inverter board were bulged AND, probably as a consequence, the F1 fuse on the same board had blown and was open.

Althoug the other caps seemed ok, I replaced some of them with the following ones:

Inverter Board:
3 x 180uF 35V panasonic FR
F1 fuse

Power supply board:
1x 470uF 16V panasonic FR
1x 220uF 25V panasonic FM

Main board
1x 1000uF 10V nichicon ZLH
3x 330uF 25V panasonic FR

and the displayed image is great!
Thanks again.

[johnplanetz]

Thanks to the posts here, I had the confidence to repair my ailing VP2030B.
All the same symptoms- flickering at startup, then recently it started going black for a few seconds every few minutes.

The most obvious blown caps were the three 35V 180uF CapXon's on the backlight board and the two 25V 330uF Teapo's at the the ribbon-cable input of the main video board.

But for good measure, I also replaced the 6.3V 1000uF Teapo on the main video board, and the 22uF Ltec, 220uF Taicon and 470uF Ltec caps on the power board. All of the 100uF caps on the main video board looked ok (and were a different style of cap from those pictured by the OP- all short/squat and looked ok with nice flat tops).

I ordered all Panasonic FM/FR and Nichicon HE caps from Element14:

$.326 PANASONIC - EEUFM1E221 - 220UF, 25V
$.367 PANASONIC - EEUFR1C471 - 470UF, 16V
$.367 PANASONIC - EEUFR1V181 - 180UF, 35V
$.149 PANASONIC - EEUFM1H220 - 22UF, 50V
$.367 PANASONIC - EEUFR1E331 - 330UF, 25V
$.20 NICHICON - UHE0J102MPD1TD - 1000UF, 6.3V

I have three of these monitors (only one with symptoms), so I ordered 3x the quantity of parts I needed. Total $16.99 shipped and received in two days.

Back in business with a nice matched set of three VP2030B's.

Thanks all,
John