Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
Reply above, meant to quote it you
Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
No change in voltages when the T-Con was removed from the Main.
Also thoroughly looked over the Main/Power cable, everything looks good there.
Thanks for your help!Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
Check cable from powerboard to mainboard, see if there are any dark or burnt looking terminals, can also check for continuity from end to end, Sometimes I use stripped bread ties so as not to spread out or distort the terminal ends.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
Maybe unhook the tcon from mainboard, keep mainboard connected to powerboard, see if you get proper steady voltages there at your powerboard connector.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
INV-ON: 7.3
I-PWM: No wire in this connection
E-PWM: 4.9
Correct, the standby light will be on when the TV is OFF and turn off when the power button is pressed. It turns back on after about 2 seconds.Last edited by philtvman; 04-12-2020, 09:09 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
So what Voltage do you have on INV-ON and I-PWM pins when running the power supply board without connection to the main board but everything else are still connected? Do see the backlights come on?Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
Voltage between filter caps
Power Off with Main Disconnected from PS: 387
Power Off All Connected: 168
Power On: Spikes to 387 and drops back to 168
Tested the SB and yes, same result. Steady at 5.18 with Power Off.
When Powered on, voltage jumps from 5.18 -> 3.31 -> 0.155 -> 1.3 -> 1.6 -> OL -> 5.18 (all in about 2 seconds)...when the button is pressed and these voltages are bouncing around, the standby light turns off.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
Voltage between filter caps
Power Off with Main Disconnected from PS: 387
Power Off All Connected: 168
Power On: Spikes to 387 and drops back to 168
Tested the SB and yes, same result. Steady at 5.18 with Power Off.
When Powered on, voltage jumps from 5.18 -> 3.31 -> 0.155 -> 1.3 -> 1.6 -> OL -> 5.18 (all in about 2 seconds)...when the button is pressed and these voltages are bouncing around, the standby light turns off.
So right now we do not have steady Standby power supply output.Last edited by budm; 04-12-2020, 08:50 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
Interesting... can you check the four rectifying diodes on that power board? Wait until the big caps discharge first. If you can, either remove the diode from the circuit, or just lift one leg off first.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
+1 to BudM and the big scary cap comment. It's no joke. Don't die.
Just getting to my e-mail... standby goes down to 1.3V? STBY isn't loaded down when the TV is off (e.g it's within nominal), and shouldn't be when the TV is on.
Edit: also, you are missing a few pin numbers... You have pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 30... where are the rest?
All the pins I left out are not wired, just open holes in the connector.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
What DC V do you have between the two legs of the main filter caps (two 450vdc LARGE CAPS laying on the side in t he HOT DEADLY SIDE of the circuit) when power switch is OFF and when it is on?
Post #15:
"3 SB 5.18 1.3"
Are you 100% sure that the SB (5V Standby power supply) drops down to 1.3V? I cannot see why you will have standby LED comes on when standby power supply drops down to 1.3V.
Voltage between filter caps
Power Off with Main Disconnected from PS: 387
Power Off All Connected: 168
Power On: Spikes to 387 and drops back to 168
Tested the SB and yes, same result. Steady at 5.18 with Power Off.
When Powered on, voltage jumps from 5.18 -> 3.31 -> 0.155 -> 1.3 -> 1.6 -> OL -> 5.18 (all in about 2 seconds)...when the button is pressed and these voltages are bouncing around, the standby light turns off.Last edited by philtvman; 04-12-2020, 08:45 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
+1 to BudM and the big scary cap comment. It's no joke. Don't die.
Just getting to my e-mail... standby goes down to 1.3V? STBY isn't loaded down when the TV is off (e.g it's within nominal), and shouldn't be when the TV is on.
Edit: also, you are missing a few pin numbers... You have pins 1, 2, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 30... where are the rest?Last edited by ngth82; 04-12-2020, 08:33 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
What DC V do you have between the two legs of the main filter caps (two 450vdc LARGE CAPS laying on the side in t he HOT DEADLY SIDE of the circuit) when power switch is OFF and when it is on?
Post #15:
"3 SB 5.18 1.3"
Are you 100% sure that the SB (5V Standby power supply) drops down to 1.3V? I cannot see why you will have standby LED comes on when standby power supply drops down to 1.3V.Last edited by budm; 04-12-2020, 08:05 PM.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
What is the power supply board P/N? BN44 -?????
Your readings do not look right at all.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
Can you get some good clear head on shots of the main board? Preferably in natural light - no flash.
Look at your meter. Turn it on and into resistance mode.- When you don't have the probes touching each other, what reading do you get? (OL or something similar).
- Touch the probes together -- what reading do you get now? (0.00 ohm, or something under 1 ohm is what we're looking for.).
If you get something in the ~10 ohm region, i'm assuming that you didn't break through the thin layer of oxidation on the probe. A good test is to get a piece of copper and lightly "jam" the tip into the copper for a good connection.
Anyway, back to your TV: the inductor should have 0 resistance (for the sake of this discussion). There are parasitic resistances for it in a "real inductor" vs an "ideal inductor" (quick google search will have some physics background for this)
Do you have a photo of the board before you removed the inductor?
I'm assuming the connector by the barcode goes to the power board.- Please post voltage readings with everything connected when the TV is OFF
- Post voltage readings with the TV is ON?
Make a table like this (example). Give the pin number. The signal name (as shown on the silk screen on the board), the OFF voltage, the ON voltage. Wrap it with the "code" block when you edit in "Go Advanced" mode to format it...
Code:Pin SIG V_OFF V_ON 1 PWR_ON 0 3.329 3 20V 0 21.26 5 GND 0 0 7 GND 0 0 9 3.5V 3.49 3.438 11 3.5V 3.49 3.438 13 GND 0 0
Full Model: LN55B650T1FUZA
P/N for the SMD near the Inductor: Z1021HAI
Here are the voltages I ended up with. I initially checked all capacitors on the PS and they verified okay.
Code:Pin # Sig v_off v_on 1 PS 0 0.1 2 Sync 0 0 3 SB 5.18 1.3 5 GND 0 0 7 18V 0 1.5 9 GND 0 0 11 GND 0 0 13 5.1 0 0.5 15 5.1 0 0.5 17 GND 0 0 19 13 0 0.04 21 13 0 1.7 23 INV-ON 0 0 25 E-PWM 0 0.6 27 5V_DET 0 0 29 GND 0 0 30 GND 0 0
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/attach...1&d=1586578260
What is the P/N of that 8-pin SMD IC connected to that inductor?Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
Yep. Solder the inductor back on.
Take readings with the tv off.
Then take readings with the tv on. This may take several on-off cycles. Since some of them will likely decay since the tv doesn’t turn on all the way.Leave a comment:
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Re: Samsung Ln55b650t1f Part Identification
can you get some good clear head on shots of the main board? Preferably in natural light - no flash.
Look at your meter. Turn it on and into resistance mode.- when you don't have the probes touching each other, what reading do you get? (ol or something similar).
- touch the probes together -- what reading do you get now? (0.00 ohm, or something under 1 ohm is what we're looking for.).
if you get something in the ~10 ohm region, i'm assuming that you didn't break through the thin layer of oxidation on the probe. A good test is to get a piece of copper and lightly "jam" the tip into the copper for a good connection.
Anyway, back to your tv: The inductor should have 0 resistance (for the sake of this discussion). There are parasitic resistances for it in a "real inductor" vs an "ideal inductor" (quick google search will have some physics background for this)
do you have a photo of the board before you removed the inductor?
I'm assuming the connector by the barcode goes to the power board.- please post voltage readings with everything connected when the tv is off
- post voltage readings with the tv is on?
make a table like this (example). Give the pin number. The signal name (as shown on the silk screen on the board), the off voltage, the on voltage. Wrap it with the "code" block when you edit in "go advanced" mode to format it...
Code:pin sig v_off v_on 1 pwr_on 0 3.329 3 20v 0 21.26 5 gnd 0 0 7 gnd 0 0 9 3.5v 3.49 3.438 11 3.5v 3.49 3.438 13 gnd 0 0
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