Complaint is that set turns off by itself, both audio and video. I removed the back cover and ran it for three days with no issues. I installed the back cover and within 15 minutes it went dark. All voltages measured normal while running on the bench with rear cover removed. Removed rear cover and got out the heat gun...heated each component separately...seems like within 5 min of heating the main board area I get the shutdown. When it shuts down, I still have standby 5V. I lose the 12 volts that apparently is coming from the main board on the 4 conductor harness... Set will not do anything until I cycle power. Fires right back up once I cycle power. I actually had another smps from another set that had a bad panel..replaced and made no difference in conditions. I also have a main board and FRC board..do not have a t-con. something is heating up and causing the main board to shut the set down. Heat sink on FRC gets plenty warm..
Rcaled60
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by howardc64Problem
This is an LG edge LED lit LCD Display. The LEDs are on the bottom edge of the display. There are 2 bars (left and right) Each bar has many LEDs and a 6 pin connector. Each pin drive several LEDs thus is the highest current flow / heat junction. The weak lead free solder gradually fails with thermal expansion/contraction cycling and increases resistance. PSU will compensate up to a point, then when the current is too high, PSU just shut down the backlight causing a dark display. I have even seen one which the connector just fell off as solder points became completely detached....-
Channel: Troubleshooting Computer Displays
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by cheeky2I suppose the real question is whether the existing pinouts from ether a 17IPS71 psu are cross compatible with a 17IPS12 psu? If they are then the exchange of the main boards should have no issues providing the screen is compatible with both main boards. Obviously you can change the screen configurations easily enough (providing you have the correct files) for the main board. Why may you ask would I do this? Well a lot of the smart features are no longer working on a Hitachi 48HBT62U main board I wish to give it a new lease of life!
Obviously the same LVDS connector for the screen connection... -
by ygorsanHi everyone,
I’m looking for help with a persistent issue on an LG TV model 55NANO77SRA, which uses the main board EBU66792103 (also used in LG UQ80 and NANO75/NANO80 series).
🧩 Problem Summary:- The TV keeps scrolling through the menu or selecting items by itself.
- I removed the physical button board (the entire panel with power and volume buttons) and also disconnected the flat cable (CN202) from the main board.
- The remote control is not in use (batteries removed), and the TV still shows the same behavior.
- I
07-28-2025, 08:34 AM -
by Asraf AtbHi everyone,
Im looking for some advice regarding my Samsung UE55MU8000 TV with main board model BN94-11606C. The TV suddenly stopped turning on and now shows no signs of life at all not even the standby light at the bottom.
Initially, I suspected an issue with the PSU, so I took it to a repair center. They tested it and confirmed that the PSU works perfectly, even on other TVs. Based on that, I started investigating the main board.
I disconnected the main board from the PSU, and the backlight turned on, which seems to confirm the main board is the issue....1 Photo -
by Genghis_KhanHello everyone,
I’m currently troubleshooting an issue on my Lenovo ThinkPad T470p (Type 20J6) and would really appreciate any insights or solutions.
Issue summary:
Whenever I remove the main laptop battery and AC adaptor, then place them back, the system gives a “CMOS checksum error” at next boot, and the BIOS clock resets to its default time/date.
However, the RTC works fine as long as the main battery remains attached — even if the laptop is unplugged for hours. Same as I remove the battery while the AC is attached, RTC remains. Obviously,... - Loading...
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