Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Insignia NS-42P650A11 - click, click, off - shorted IGBT

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Insignia NS-42P650A11 - click, click, off - shorted IGBT

    Good afternoon all -

    I picked up an Insignia NS-42P650A11 (MFG April 2011).

    I have a feeling everyone is going to tell me to either: junk it, or buy a new Y-sus, Y-buffer and X-sus boards to do a complete swap (which is a bad return on investment in my case)

    This is what I know:
    • Main: BN96-14887A V1000.3
    • T-Con: PBA: LJ92-01708A, PCB: LJ41-08392A
    • Power board: BN44-00329A, 42" PSPF301501A
    • Y-sus: 42U2P_Y-MAIN
    • Y-buff: 42U2P_YB, PBA # LJ92-01739A, PCB # LJ41-08594A
    • X-sus: 42U2P_XM(1 layer),
    • Panel: Samsung S42AX-YD13

    • The Y-sus makes a popping noise (note, not clicking) - a popping noise - when you plugin the unit. I see that the high voltage 330pF 1kV cap at location C5008 has destroyed itself.
    • I replaced the high voltage cap with an equivalent part. This did not fix the TV.
    • I disconnected all of the boards. The main power supply board correctly generates Vs (211V) and Va (54V). The power supply board goes into protection mode since the X/Y boards are not hooked up. I do see the Vs and Va rails ramp momentarily to their target voltages. So, that appears to be okay.
    • If I ONLY add the Y-sus board, the TV tries to turn on twice (?), but then shuts down again.
    • If I add the X-sus board to this, the TV tries to turn on twice (?), but then shuts down again. (same behavior as with Y-sus only)
    • I tested the Y-buffer for shorts - no short that i can find through each of the ICs.
    • I'm not hooking up the Y-buffer to the equation since the X-sus and Y-sus are suspect.
    • I see that the X-sus has two IGBTs that are dead short (they are marked XG - Q4007, and XS - Q4001).


    Is it even worth swapping out the IGBTs on the X-sus board?
    Should the TV stay on if I have the Y-buffer and X-sus disconnected?

    Thanks!
    -Thomas
    -Thomas
    I'm a hardware engineer focused on networking equipment for my day job. I void warranties and fix consumer electronics for fun.

    #2
    Re: Insignia NS-42P650A11 - click, click, off - shorted IGBT

    Originally posted by ngth82 View Post
    Good afternoon all -

    I picked up an Insignia NS-42P650A11 (MFG April 2011).

    I have a feeling everyone is going to tell me to either: junk it, or buy a new Y-sus, Y-buffer and X-sus boards to do a complete swap (which is a bad return on investment in my case)

    This is what I know:
    • Main: BN96-14887A V1000.3
    • T-Con: PBA: LJ92-01708A, PCB: LJ41-08392A
    • Power board: BN44-00329A, 42" PSPF301501A
    • Y-sus: 42U2P_Y-MAIN
    • Y-buff: 42U2P_YB, PBA # LJ92-01739A, PCB # LJ41-08594A
    • X-sus: 42U2P_XM(1 layer),
    • Panel: Samsung S42AX-YD13

    • The Y-sus makes a popping noise (note, not clicking) - a popping noise - when you plugin the unit. I see that the high voltage 330pF 1kV cap at location C5008 has destroyed itself.
    • I replaced the high voltage cap with an equivalent part. This did not fix the TV.
    • I disconnected all of the boards. The main power supply board correctly generates Vs (211V) and Va (54V). The power supply board goes into protection mode since the X/Y boards are not hooked up. I do see the Vs and Va rails ramp momentarily to their target voltages. So, that appears to be okay.
    • If I ONLY add the Y-sus board, the TV tries to turn on twice (?), but then shuts down again.
    • If I add the X-sus board to this, the TV tries to turn on twice (?), but then shuts down again. (same behavior as with Y-sus only)
    • I tested the Y-buffer for shorts - no short that i can find through each of the ICs.
    • I'm not hooking up the Y-buffer to the equation since the X-sus and Y-sus are suspect.
    • I see that the X-sus has two IGBTs that are dead short (they are marked XG - Q4007, and XS - Q4001).


    Is it even worth swapping out the IGBTs on the X-sus board?
    Should the TV stay on if I have the Y-buffer and X-sus disconnected?

    Thanks!
    -Thomas
    i just trashed a 32'' of that model bad panel,hope it's not your case good luck

    Comment


      #3
      Re: Insignia NS-42P650A11 - click, click, off - shorted IGBT

      Thanks.

      If i can find out why the Y-sus causes the unit to click, then maybe it would be worthwhile attempting to replace the IGBTs on the X-sus.

      As it stands right now, a $5 initial gamble to get the unit isn't worth the money that needs to be dumped in to get a complete set of sus + buffer boards.
      -Thomas
      I'm a hardware engineer focused on networking equipment for my day job. I void warranties and fix consumer electronics for fun.

      Comment


        #4
        Re: Insignia NS-42P650A11 - click, click, off - shorted IGBT

        Just following up with this thread.

        I ended up taking the X and Y boards apart.

        The Y-sus has a dead short between all of the IGBT pins at locations Q5003, Q5007 and Q5008. (MPN markings say "RJP30E2" - 360V, 35A, N-Channel IGBT). I removed the heatsink and unsoldered the parts. They tested bad as it still showed a dead short between the parts. The board pads show an open loop, thus confirming it was these three parts.

        I did the same thing for the X-sus - i found a dead short on the two IGBTs labeled Q4007 and Q4001. (MPN markings say "RJH30E2" - 360V, 30A IGBT).

        I purchased replacement parts this evening from eBay - qty 5 each (with a few to spare) - $9 in parts.
        -Thomas
        I'm a hardware engineer focused on networking equipment for my day job. I void warranties and fix consumer electronics for fun.

        Comment


          #5
          Re: Insignia NS-42P650A11 - click, click, off - shorted IGBT

          Hi all -
          I received the replacement IGBTs today. I installed them and checked for shorts - none found.

          I installed the y board, and connected the power from the main power board. Vs and Va ramp up then shutdown since the other boards are not installed. I then plugged in the x board as well. The power boards are up - vs and va are stable (210v and 54v per the panel sticker).

          I turned it off and waited until the caps discharged then connected the y buffer board. I turned it back on and the power rails still appear to be good. I shut it off again, waited, then connected the ribbon cables from the PDP to the power boards. I made sure the LVDS cable was disconnected and forced the panel into the test mode by jumpering across Pins 3&4 on the T-CON.

          but instead of getting a happy test pattern, I get what is shown in the attached image. What is the likelihood this is a buffer board problem? Or is it the panel?
          Attached Files
          -Thomas
          I'm a hardware engineer focused on networking equipment for my day job. I void warranties and fix consumer electronics for fun.

          Comment

          Working...