Samsung ue32eh5000 no picture on half the screen
Good day folks. I believe I have another case of panel failure, but just thought I'd do a quick check and hear other people's opinion on the problem: I've got this Samsung TV which doesn't display anything on screen, despite the backlight coming on. I took it apart and what I tried first was disconnecting one of the buffer boards from the t-con board. The result is pictured below (sorry it got a bit shaky, I was holding the set up with one hand 
): the half of the screen which was left connected had good crisp picture while the disconnected side was white. Try the same with the other buffer, but nothing comes on this time: just a black screen, so is this a dead buffer or is something up with the t-con board ? What would be most common ? There IS power coming into the t-con since it does display something. Do T-con boards have "channels" (like A and B) ? From my limited experience, I doubt it, since otherwise the functional side would come on even with both buffers connected, which doesn't happen: with both buffers connected, the screen stays blank, so perhaps there's a short or otherwise dead component on the faulty buffer which "kills" the T-con. Should I bother to remove the bezel and look at the buffers or would it be a waste of time ? Has anyone successfully repaired a buffer board before (assuming it's not a TAB bond that's failing) ?
): the half of the screen which was left connected had good crisp picture while the disconnected side was white. Try the same with the other buffer, but nothing comes on this time: just a black screen, so is this a dead buffer or is something up with the t-con board ? What would be most common ? There IS power coming into the t-con since it does display something. Do T-con boards have "channels" (like A and B) ? From my limited experience, I doubt it, since otherwise the functional side would come on even with both buffers connected, which doesn't happen: with both buffers connected, the screen stays blank, so perhaps there's a short or otherwise dead component on the faulty buffer which "kills" the T-con. Should I bother to remove the bezel and look at the buffers or would it be a waste of time ? Has anyone successfully repaired a buffer board before (assuming it's not a TAB bond that's failing) ?
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