had a similar issue with 40 inch Samsung , turned out to be a faulty main board causing the backlights to go dim as you described , to fix i just cut the PWM control wire from the main board to the power board .....all fixed ,but the backlight is at full power and cant adjust but all good (saves replacing the board)
If DP804 is removed, do you read 314 Ohms on the pads of the diode DP805 that you removed earlier? "CP811 I'm having trouble testing, capacitance test seems all over the place. What is a good way to test these small ceramic capacitors?" We are looking for that leakage resistance of 314 Ohms.
had a similar issue with 40 inch Samsung , turned out to be a faulty main board causing the backlights to go dim as you described , to fix i just cut the PWM control wire from the main board to the power board .....all fixed ,but the backlight is at full power and cant adjust but all good (saves replacing the board)
Right now he is getting only 164VDC on the main cap, the PFC Voltage booster is not working.
If DP804 is removed, do you read 314 Ohms on the pads of the diode DP805 that you removed earlier? "CP811 I'm having trouble testing, capacitance test seems all over the place. What is a good way to test these small ceramic capacitors?" We are looking for that leakage resistance of 314 Ohms.
Pads for DP805 read 8.9 Mohms and it keeps rising slowly, CP811 is removed as well, should I put it back for this test?
Pads for DP805 read 8.9 Mohms and it keeps rising slowly, CP811 is removed as well, should I put it back for this test?
CP811 reads 352 Ohms
Great, you found the problem, C8811 has leakage resistance, it should show as open circuit.
Can you tell what is printed on the body of the cap? It is high Voltage cap.
Great, you found the problem, C8811 has leakage resistance, it should show as open circuit.
Can you tell what is printed on the body of the cap? It is high Voltage cap.
So when I removed the diode and tested resistance across the pads, was the 314 ohms a sign that there may be a bad capacitor?
And when I removed the capacitor and rested the pads and saw the high and climbing resistance (sign of a good capacitor?), was that the next capacitor in the circuit that was causing that?
Then testing the resistance of the capacitor after it was out and seeing it was close to the same ohms as when it was in circuit verified that is the problem?
Please feel free to tell me if I'm completely wrong , I'm just trying to understand some of this.
Comment