What chips? We are talking about fuse here, may be you should look up what fuse is and what it is for.
One end of that F1 fuse is connected directly to those VIN pins so no way you can have 0 Volt at both ends of the fuse, operator error to me, not to have at least 24VDC at one end of the fuse, the big fat trace from VIV pins to one end of the fuse must have blown up big time which I doubt it.
This is post #24 and we still do no get good answer about the DCV reading on the fuse which started at my post 9.
I will let someone else chime in at this point.
With the meter set to DC volts and the black lead connected to chassis use the red lead and measure the voltage on each side of the white fuse in turn as shown in the attachment and report what you find.
Have 2 out of 3 of those capacitors (680uF,35V) on the inverter board been leaking? It could be flux on the capacitor legs but hard to tell from a picture.
Have 2 out of 3 of those capacitors (680uF,35V) on the inverter board been leaking? It could be flux on the capacitor legs but hard to tell from a picture.
I see nothing leaking out of the capacitors. I think it's the flux.
Did you verify that all the signals and the Voltage are present with the new board?
The caps on the new boards look fine, any sign of them being replaced.
Did you even see the backlights flash on for seconds? If you have bad lamp/s the inverter should still try to fire up the lams FIRST then the protection circuit will kick in AFTER.
in post 12 it says you have swopped the mainboard if this is a common issue i guess you could of got another bad one. Budm do you think this could possibly be a mainboard issue? or are the correct signals/voltages being sent already by the mainboard too the invertor board.
His post 14 shows what he has with his old board, so what is he getting now with the new boards? The dimming signal is on a low side but at least he should see the backlights flash on.
I think your new inverter is still at fault, retest if you have the voltages there.
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