Wait... i just had to move the tv off of the kitchen table (where i work on most things, funny story: My grandfather used to rebuild volkswagen engines on the kitchen table, so its kind of a tradition in our family of using kitchen tables as a workbench) but before I did, I looked at the 4 capacitors
the one that is domed is a 2700uf 16v
then there are 2 680uf 50v capacitors, and the small one I was refering to earlier is a 1000uf 25v. So now im confused as to what to get
You should look at each cap, take notes on the Capacitance, Voltage rating, Diameter, Height and then look at Digikey for LOW ESR 105c caps that will fit into your board. I use PANASONIC FM/FC series for all my repair.
Just look at the spec sheet to find what you need then type in the P/N into DIGIKEY search box. https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showpo...2&postcount=65
These ones are "NHG" and are unsuitable for a power supply. The "FC" ones you link are suitable.
Please do not PM me with questions! Questions via PM will not be answered. Post on the forums instead!
For service manual, schematic, boardview (board view), datasheet, cad - use our search.
I just placed my order through Mauser Electronics. Badcaps store, and Digikey did not stock the ones that I needed. Well Digikey did but they were back ordered until late may. I ordered the Panasonic FC capacitors from them after measuring the size of the capacitors and utilizing the chart budm pointed out to me. Thank you for all of your help guys! I really appreciate you all helping me! They should be here within the next 3-7 days so I'll be sure to let you all know when they arrive!
well i got the capacitors in tonight and like you said, it fired right up! =) so thanks for that but I ran into a new issue that I wish I had seen before... as far as i can tell there are 2 cracks in the display. Where should I go from here?
So I picked up the same model TV as his showing same issue. TV would not power on with no standby light. When plugged in the unit didnt event have a relay click. Opened it up and went straight to the power board and the capacitor that was bad on his board is the exact same one that is bad on my board. Figured this would be a simple recap the board and this TV would be saved. I flipped the board and found something I had questions about before I ordered the caps. I guess my question would be what are those exactly and how would one test them to see if they are bad. It just looks like a bad spot and that solder is just too shiny or am I wrong? If anymore info is needed please let me know.
For future reference did I go upon this correctly as in to continue this thread or should I have started a new one?
So I picked up the same model TV as his showing same issue. TV would not power on with no standby light. When plugged in the unit didnt event have a relay click. Opened it up and went straight to the power board and the capacitor that was bad on his board is the exact same one that is bad on my board. Figured this would be a simple recap the board and this TV would be saved. I flipped the board and found something I had questions about before I ordered the caps. I guess my question would be what are those exactly and how would one test them to see if they are bad. It just looks like a bad spot and that solder is just too shiny or am I wrong? If anymore info is needed please let me know.
For future reference did I go upon this correctly as in to continue this thread or should I have started a new one?
These are two resistors and a capacitor (You can see on the board it says RXXX (resistor) and CXXX (capacitor)). The resistors are the black ones with numbers, the beige one is a capacitor.
The resistors you can test with a multimeter that can test resistance(ohmmeter function). The capacitor you can check if shorted with check-diode/ohmmeter functions, and test the capacitance with a LC meter. You might have to take them out of circuit to get accurate measurements.
What you are looking at is a poor soldering/clean-up job. If you wanna fix it, you'll have to take the components off the board, wick the solder off the board, and solder the components back on. Doesn't mean it is at fault, chances are it's working, but whoever soldered there sucks at it.
You really think somebody has been in the already and did some soldering ? You would think if they were to find a detail like that they would have seen the cap that was clearly bad. Pretty sure they didn't even consider the power board to be bad cause they told me the only thing they played with was the tcon board. Any chance this was caused by the board itself? As soon as I get home I will test them and see what comes of it. Thank you for your insight on this.
BTW, that section you look at is the PFC Voltage booster circuit.
So do you get close to 400VDC between the two legs of the main filter cap when TV turned on?
hi guys, my motherboard will not start no matter what
when connected to ac power, the battery does get charge, led indicator glows red when discharged and turns white as it is fully charged.
but rest nothing happens no sign of life.
this laptop has one preexisting usbc power issue - so i use DCIN jack for charging my laptop.
with this issue my laptop was unable to power ON only sometimes i just had to wait some time.
but now nothing happens no matter how much i wait/ charge/ press and hold power button.
Dell laptop (E7440, uses the notorious CD3301B power controller + MEC5075 EC + BQ24715 charger IC) Symptoms:
Laptop works normally on a pre-charged battery.
Battery does not charge when adapter is connected.
Without battery:
Laptop powers on from DC adapter, passes CPU/RAM init checks, then cuts DC power abruptly.(seems to shutdown one of the mosfets in the charger path). Then the loop continues indefinitely
Speakers “pop” when power cut occurs indicating harsh sutdown.
If RAM is removed, the system shows RAM missing blink error code indefinitely without cutting DC power
This one's a weird one, and still unsolved despite it having gone back to Dell once.
Specs
i7-8750H, GTX 1060 Max Q, 500GB SSD & Seagate 7mm 1TB HDD. 17.3 IPS screen. This has the fingerprint reader in the power button.
Backstory
I bought this from eBay, from a wallpapering shop. £650 in 2020 which was a good price considering it's a gaming laptop. Physically it's in perfect shape, apart from the hinge mounts on the palmrest failing in the time I've had it (I have a new palmrest for it). The usual thin plastic crap modern build quality!...
I am trying to fix a samsung washinmachine power supply main board.
I already replaced it with another one to fix the machine but i want to try understand the issue with the old board.
Therefore i hope to be able to get some help to explain what to check in order to troubleshoot.
The power supply board reference is the following: DC41-00189a
I have followed one thread (https://www.badcaps.net/forum/troubl...ingmachine-rel...
LG 42LB5D (42LB5DF-UL) from 2008-01, unit is in good shape and no obvious heat damage or cracked solder on the boards.
Problem:
On first power-up the power LED flashes green about 18x and then stays solid. No backlight or image is present. Click power button, wait 10s for a click and the LED turns red. Wait 1-2s and hit power again and maybe it'll power up fully after 6 green flashes. If it doesn't light up on the sixth flash then the cycle repeats.
It seems that if the mainboard power is left on for a few minutes (solid green power, no backlight, no image)...
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