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Mitsubishi Lt-46164

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    #21
    Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

    You can leave it plugged in if you have the cord going through the hole and the back cover is hanging. Then you just slide the cover up the cord.

    I do not have this TV anymore but I do know the problem you are having is with the Main Board.

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      #22
      Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

      Originally posted by Shane711 View Post
      You can leave it plugged in if you have the cord going through the hole and the back cover is hanging. Then you just slide the cover up the cord.

      I do not have this TV anymore but I do know the problem you are having is with the Main Board.
      makes sense. yeah, no dice on the temp fix but like you said, it's not a permanent fix, anyway. I went ahead and purchased the repair service you referenced you had seen on eBay. figured for $85 + shipping it's worth it, as opposed to buying a brand new comparable TV for hundreds of dollars. Hell, there's nothing comparable from a sound standpoint, as that built-in soundbar is legit!

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        #23
        Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

        Hello! I'm having the same problem. Unhooking the blootooth/IR board along with the power LED board and plugging in worked. Although, there is still a red blinking light in the back. Seeing as how everything works once those two boards are unplugged, I guess it wouldn't be a power issue (all the caps also look fine). Must be a problem with the IC as suggested above. Right? Or could any of this be fixed by resetting or updating the firmware? I may try tomorrow if I get a chance. I'm currently reading over a PDF of the manual first though.

        Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but it was pretty relevant to my problem. Thanks!

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          #24
          Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

          Update: It seems that the light will blink for about a minute regardless of what I do. It then goes out and I can use the TV regularly. If I hold the power button for 10 seconds. I get a single yellow blink. I also noticed that the universal remote needs to be reprogrammed after each removal of the plug. Is that normal? I normally don't use those things. I would assume that the remote itself would store the code, do the TVs have a range of codes they can use? Thanks! Sorry for wall of text.

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            #25
            Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

            Since we now offer repair for LT-46164 and the other main boards in the family I can clarify a few things to buy me (I hope) the right to post the below link:

            ****************
            First (commenting on past comments) EEPROM failures are NOT at all foreign to those boards; they are not the most common issues, true, but they still do happen; they happen in later TV models as well, depending on architecture and design, so it is not like they are something that's left in the past.

            NAND flash EEPROMs can get 1 single block corrupt and that is not THAT rare. It can be any block. Well the odds of it being block 0, which will kill the device, are very very low.

            But it can be any one of many other used blocks and that can cause wide range of issues; we've seen HDMI ports not shown (not that they do not work - they do not show in the inputs list a
            t all!) due to bad EEPROM; we've seen sound gone because of bad EEPROM; we've seen TV shutting down after 5-10 seconds of work due to bad EEPROM. And more.

            So pretty much everything is possible.

            Second, there are SEVERAL things that tend to go bad on the Mitsubishi family of boards with time; I am sure more will show up with more time too although I don't think there's much more time left for them anyway.
            BGA of the BCM3542 is a sure bet; reballing or reflowing it would have probably helped the above.
            Of course what they don't tell you is there's a difference between reflowing and baking, especially in home conditions.
            After - I admit it - doing it for years the simple way we ended up getting a professional machine; end result is that defect rate went from 10% to 1% and we can now do many boards we could never do before (thin LG boards, for example) and without being afraid we'll warp them beyond repair.

            Another common failure on those boards is the HDMI; it is hardly a secret it is a common problem on many main boards, but luckily not too tough when there's a dedicated HDMI selector.

            Hope that helps...

            For an end user I honestly wouldn't recommend anything on your own; for medium to advanced tech...I'd say reflow first, if possible NOT in a kitchen oven and do not forget to add flux!

            ***************

            :-)
            Last edited by SMDFlea; 04-09-2023, 04:36 AM. Reason: advertising

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              #26
              Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

              I agree with CoppellTVRepair, do not place your board in a oven. In most cases it does not work and if it does it will only last a few weeks. If your board needs reballing then $85 is a bargain. I have some experience with reballing and you have to be extremely skilled, it's like one of those things that only 1 in 1,000 can do. You either got it or you don't. And a good reballing machine will cost you $10,000 to $50,000 or way more than that.

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