Mitsubishi Lt-46164

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Shane711
    Badcaps Veteran
    • Dec 2014
    • 493
    • USA

    #21
    Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

    You can leave it plugged in if you have the cord going through the hole and the back cover is hanging. Then you just slide the cover up the cord.

    I do not have this TV anymore but I do know the problem you are having is with the Main Board.

    Comment

    • sixersfan105
      New Member
      • May 2017
      • 2
      • USA

      #22
      Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

      Originally posted by Shane711
      You can leave it plugged in if you have the cord going through the hole and the back cover is hanging. Then you just slide the cover up the cord.

      I do not have this TV anymore but I do know the problem you are having is with the Main Board.
      makes sense. yeah, no dice on the temp fix but like you said, it's not a permanent fix, anyway. I went ahead and purchased the repair service you referenced you had seen on eBay. figured for $85 + shipping it's worth it, as opposed to buying a brand new comparable TV for hundreds of dollars. Hell, there's nothing comparable from a sound standpoint, as that built-in soundbar is legit!

      Comment

      • Rcon
        New Member
        • Jan 2018
        • 2
        • US

        #23
        Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

        Hello! I'm having the same problem. Unhooking the blootooth/IR board along with the power LED board and plugging in worked. Although, there is still a red blinking light in the back. Seeing as how everything works once those two boards are unplugged, I guess it wouldn't be a power issue (all the caps also look fine). Must be a problem with the IC as suggested above. Right? Or could any of this be fixed by resetting or updating the firmware? I may try tomorrow if I get a chance. I'm currently reading over a PDF of the manual first though.

        Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but it was pretty relevant to my problem. Thanks!

        Comment

        • Rcon
          New Member
          • Jan 2018
          • 2
          • US

          #24
          Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

          Update: It seems that the light will blink for about a minute regardless of what I do. It then goes out and I can use the TV regularly. If I hold the power button for 10 seconds. I get a single yellow blink. I also noticed that the universal remote needs to be reprogrammed after each removal of the plug. Is that normal? I normally don't use those things. I would assume that the remote itself would store the code, do the TVs have a range of codes they can use? Thanks! Sorry for wall of text.

          Comment

          • CoppellTVRepair
            Member
            • Dec 2010
            • 39

            #25
            Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

            Since we now offer repair for LT-46164 and the other main boards in the family I can clarify a few things to buy me (I hope) the right to post the below link:

            ****************
            First (commenting on past comments) EEPROM failures are NOT at all foreign to those boards; they are not the most common issues, true, but they still do happen; they happen in later TV models as well, depending on architecture and design, so it is not like they are something that's left in the past.

            NAND flash EEPROMs can get 1 single block corrupt and that is not THAT rare. It can be any block. Well the odds of it being block 0, which will kill the device, are very very low.

            But it can be any one of many other used blocks and that can cause wide range of issues; we've seen HDMI ports not shown (not that they do not work - they do not show in the inputs list a
            t all!) due to bad EEPROM; we've seen sound gone because of bad EEPROM; we've seen TV shutting down after 5-10 seconds of work due to bad EEPROM. And more.

            So pretty much everything is possible.

            Second, there are SEVERAL things that tend to go bad on the Mitsubishi family of boards with time; I am sure more will show up with more time too although I don't think there's much more time left for them anyway.
            BGA of the BCM3542 is a sure bet; reballing or reflowing it would have probably helped the above.
            Of course what they don't tell you is there's a difference between reflowing and baking, especially in home conditions.
            After - I admit it - doing it for years the simple way we ended up getting a professional machine; end result is that defect rate went from 10% to 1% and we can now do many boards we could never do before (thin LG boards, for example) and without being afraid we'll warp them beyond repair.

            Another common failure on those boards is the HDMI; it is hardly a secret it is a common problem on many main boards, but luckily not too tough when there's a dedicated HDMI selector.

            Hope that helps...

            For an end user I honestly wouldn't recommend anything on your own; for medium to advanced tech...I'd say reflow first, if possible NOT in a kitchen oven and do not forget to add flux!

            ***************

            :-)
            Last edited by SMDFlea; 04-09-2023, 04:36 AM. Reason: advertising

            Comment

            • Shane711
              Badcaps Veteran
              • Dec 2014
              • 493
              • USA

              #26
              Re: Mitsubishi Lt-46164

              I agree with CoppellTVRepair, do not place your board in a oven. In most cases it does not work and if it does it will only last a few weeks. If your board needs reballing then $85 is a bargain. I have some experience with reballing and you have to be extremely skilled, it's like one of those things that only 1 in 1,000 can do. You either got it or you don't. And a good reballing machine will cost you $10,000 to $50,000 or way more than that.

              Comment

              Related Topics

              Collapse

              • Tynan Dill
                Vizio e601i-A3 - Has Sound and Display, But No Backlight - Bad Power Supply Board or Bad LED Bulbs ?
                by Tynan Dill
                I was given this TV from my great uncle. He said it just wouldn't turn on one day out of nowhere, replaced the TV, and gave it to me to possibly fix and use for myself.

                Upon bringing it home and plugging it up, it showed a standby light.

                I powered it on and without a flashlight, the display showed the "V" but the lighting is very dim, but visible.

                The screen seems to blackout and stay black, but with a flashlight I can see the display.

                With my Playstation 4 connected via HDMI, and running a game I can hear sound.

                Assuming...
                11-22-2024, 01:46 PM
              • m1ch43lzm
                HP Pavilion 15-eh Board DAG7HAMB8F0 - CPU throttling to 0.4GHz (PROCHOT_EXT) and black screen
                by m1ch43lzm
                Hi, this is my personal laptop, which the original board (lets call it Board A) blew up PU8700 (TPS51486), making a hole on the board, i had left the laptop at my desk one day with the battery fully charged and didn't touch it for a week, but when i tried to turn it on it didn't
                Thought the battery was dead, so i plugged in the charger then tried to power on, the power LED blinked once, charged LED still orange, unplugged the charger, plugged in again and I noticed the "magic smoke" smell, so i unplugged the charger, removed the back cover and saw the blown IC (the "magic...
                05-12-2025, 08:37 PM
              • H34TO
                ITE IT8390 (IT8390E-256) programmer "ITE Download Board 4" user manual + firmware, flashing ITE ECs on the cheap
                by H34TO
                Recently I've gotten into EC flashing due to my broken laptop(s) and started frantically searching methods for flashing the IT5571E-128 chip on the cheap(due to me beaing a student and not having a job) and noticed that ITE newer chips can be flashed via ISP (In-System Programming) either via SMBus or the KBC (EPP - Enhanced Parallel Port) interface. While these can be achieved with programmers like SVOD4/3 or the RT809H/F those options are WAYYY out of my budget so I was horrified. But recently I stumbled uppon some programmers on aliexpress that claim they can program a variety of ITE chips...
                06-17-2025, 07:17 AM
              • sam_sam_sam
                Mitsubishi CNC switching power supply board dead / relay board bad diode failure
                by sam_sam_sam
                I was working on this CNC machine today found no keyboard functioning no control relay powering on
                The screen powered on and was giving an operation error but the manual was not very clear about what the error exactly was but with a little bit of troubleshooting and finding out that the control relays not powering on and no keyboard functions we narrowed down to this one switching power supply which of course does not have any indicator LED light they are on the keyboard interface/relay controller board

                Found shorted diodes on main controller relays there are 3 of them that...
                01-07-2023, 05:43 PM
              • Hakuu
                LG OLED77G1PUA - No Video / Audio after a TCON Board change and Software Update
                by Hakuu
                Hi There,

                This TV was auto switching off after few seconds with some vertical lines on the screen, so got a new TCON board and replaced it.

                After replacing the TCON board it was working fine and i set it up with everything, used for few hours, then had the bright idea to update the software on it. During the update process, TV switched off and now no audio or video. No relay switch sound.

                More Details

                TV Model - LG OLED77G1PUA

                Got the same exact TCON board from TVPartsToday and replaced it. But didnt transfer the EPPROM data (didnt...
                07-12-2023, 02:37 PM
              • Loading...
              • No more items.
              Working...