Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Tried to edit previous post to add pics of the inverter boards.
I will get the LCD number for you.
Thanx!
Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Collapse
X
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Do you have the LCD panel model number? I can look up the spec and it should give info on the T-CON and the Inverter board signals info.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Okay, here's an update.
I checked all 20 of the transformers and they all ring out at 1.06K Ohms between legs 1-5 & 4-8. Couldn't see anything awry on either board. Measured the voltages at the headers on the inverter boards and I am getting identical readings as stated before but, here's the kicker. After about 10 minutes of warm up the control voltages change! I then get the following readings:
BR1 = 2.05V
ON/OFF = 3.83V and steady
PWM-DIM = still 5.05V
ERROR = still 3.3V
When I first start it up the voltage at ON/OFF remains near 0V and soon after the CPU is done booting(around 5 sec.)it starts to fluctuate from 1.4-2v thereabouts. The voltage on the ERROR terminal remains at 0V until approx 10sec after boot up and then it locks into 3.3V.
Is it possible that the ON/OFF control voltage is not being input to the inverter within the given timeframe and therefore it gets locked into error mode?
Then, regardless if the correct start voltage is met later on, because it is in Error, it prevents the bulbs from being lit?
I still have the issue on no sound and no visible movement in the LCD.
I will post pics of the inverter boards when I am not using my phone.
Thank again for the help!
BudLast edited by 69sixpackbee; 07-29-2014, 11:24 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Will do!
Yes, I checked both boards with identical voltage readings. I will check the XFRMR's tonite.
I will take some closeups of the inverters as well.
Thanx again for the help!!
BudLeave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
I have seen that - you need to test all the transformers on each inverter board
8 or 9? I am signing off now but to test them you need NO power to the board and set your meter on ohms 2000. There are 8 pins you need to test
1------2------3------4
5------6-------7------8
1 to 5 and 4 to 8 on each.
Also there may be fuses and mosfets but I cant help without the pictures.
Did you test BOTH inverter boards with the voltageLeave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
I had a DVD player attached to the input in the back of the set with a movie playing and was pressing the "INPUT" buttons slowly and repeatedly in hopes of finding the correct input but to no avail.
The attached image is on the connector that runs down to the inverter board.
There are four 24V leads and they were all identical readings.
Thanx,
BudAttached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Okay, I made some more DMM measurements at lunch.
I took these readings from both of the cables that go to each inverter board.
BR1 = 1.1V
ON/OFF = fluctuates between 1.4V & 2.1V
PWM-DIM = Full 5.04V
ERROR = 3.2V
I also checked the 12V power again coming from the PSU. I snipped the one lead marked "12V" that goes between the PSU and the main board and attached the auto lamp with the bright filament only. I got a reading of 10.4V. The lamp would pulsate a bit and the reading would vary between 10.1-10.4V. There was voltage coming back up through the same lead from the main board so I must assume that there is possibly more than one lead supplying 12V to the main from the PSU ?
This portion of the PSU is supposed to be able to supply 2.25A and it seems pretty paltry in as that it is starting to puke powering a bulb and whatever else is was. Maybe this part of the PSU is weak?
Thanx!
BudAttached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Last edited by 69sixpackbee; 07-29-2014, 02:50 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
What DC Voltage do you get at that ON/OFF (Inverter ON/OFF same as BL_ON) pin? It should be > 2VDC for backlights ON, and <1VDC for backlights OFF.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
I dove into this a bit more and I am sure it is not getting the signal to fire the bulbs. The power supply voltages are all good coming from the PSU.
I tried the CFL test with a good curly-que bulb soldered onto one of the headers and it was silent. I took a closer look at the ribbon cables that ran from the T-con up to the board on the top and on each one there were some very warm traces at one time as evidenced by the melted insulation on the ribbon cables. I did measure 12VDC B+ on two separate conductors going up to the T-con so it looks like the main board is switching the power up to it. Just a thought. I checked the 4 SMD fuses on each of the inverter boards and they are fine. The +24 is there but whatever circuit is "pulling it down" is not working to fire the XFRMR's from what I can tell. I checked the +24 right at the cables going to them with my "automotive" series-connected test lamps and the voltage is rock steady as is the +12 measured at the cable going to the main board.
Kind of at a quandry at this point.Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Okay, I popped the ribbon cable from the header on the T-con and the screen is still dead.
.....BudLeave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Okay, I will do that when I get back home this evening in about 3 hours or so and report back. In the interim, I have printed up you're AWESOME troubleshooting guides and I will be scrutinizing them intensely!!
...to be continued!
Thanx!Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
OK, TV unplugged, then disconnect the white flat ribbon cable between the T-CON and the MASTER INVERTER board (left board), then power up the TV to see if the backlights will come on.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Here are some updated images:
When it is on I cannot hear any HV raster that I would be familiar with (think CRT sets) and I'm sure by the twin XFRMR's on the P/S board would lead me to believe that this should be the case to fire the bulbs. Not sure what the arraingement is on this set (I am kinda in the dark still) but I would think it is some sort of EEFL. The service manual is pretty vague and the lack of any and all schematics makes it even worse!
I do not have the "proper" equipment to diagnose these LCD's
The one image shows the blue "ON" LED as viewed from the back. It is so dim you cannot see it from the front through the bezel surround even in a very dark environment. The "Stand By" and "Powering On" indicators are pretty noticeable, however.
BTW, those suspect looking traces on the ribbon cables running up from the T-con are okay. I rang them out for continuity and adjacent shorting and they are okay.
Thanx!
BudAttached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Last edited by 69sixpackbee; 07-28-2014, 02:48 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Can we see the whole backside of the TV so we can see how all the boards are connected?Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
...even if the blue light is so dim it is virtually undetectable?Hi,
I have a similar problem with a LG LCD 42LG50. Check the following video to see if it is the inverter board, it was the problem with mine. You have to do it at night or in a very dark room.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TG3i_G8GQF0
Note: If the blue light is on your Tv is working without the backlight.
I can only tell it switched to blue from viewing it from the backside of the board through the empty through holes!Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Hi,
I have a similar problem with a LG LCD 42LG50. Check the following video to see if it is the inverter board, it was the problem with mine. You have to do it at night or in a very dark room.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TG3i_G8GQF0
Note: If the blue light is on your Tv is working without the backlight.Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Will do!
I have pics so far, of the board numbers. I did remove every board and looked at them under my microscope for any cold solder joints, blown pico fuses and blown/leaking caps but to no avail. All boards (P/S, T-con, Inverter/slave and main) "looked" good.
I will post some shots of the back of the set with the shields still removed from the boards.
Thanx!Attached Filesif you find these attachements useful please consider making a small donation to the site
Leave a comment:
-
Re: Need Some Repair Advice LG 47LG50
Welcome,
A couple of things here.
Please post photos as attachments of the back of your unit exposed, try to get clear photos of each board for the members here to help you identify bad parts easier.
Part numbers are nice but not required unless someone asks
Pictures are very much needed here
Good luck on the repair!Leave a comment:
Related Topics
Collapse
-
by Ady2017Hi all. I need to replace an SMD fuse on my camcorder and this is the first time I have had to do any SMD soldering so your advice would be appreciated. Below is a picture of the board that I am working on and I have highlighted the fuse that needs to be replaced. I managed to zoom in to take this picture but the fuse is really tiny and is sandwiched between other components so this is going to be a new milestone for me. I appreciate that I am going to have to buy a new soldering iron if you could advice on what I need please. I was thinking about putting a big soldering iron across the whole...1 Photo
-
by chazzoI’d appreciate some very basic advice on CH341x programmers. I know this topic comes up from time to time, but stuff changes, so I hope a refresh is in order. In particular, I see some unexpected things happening with jumper positions.
[My plan is to learn to read and write 24CO2 EEPROMs via I2C. The first target is the one in my Uni-T clamp meter, but before tackling that I have some brand-new EEPROMs to practice on.]
I have two basic Chinese programmers. One is the blue board with a CH341A and two rows of pin headers. To my untrained eye it looks like all the others.... -
by JidisHi all,
I made a big-ass mess here of my father's beloved P602, and I'm trying to figure out if I should order a batch of overpriced ribbons or if I'd just be throwing more good money at the bad.
He woke up recently to a bunch of white bars going down the right side of the screen. From what I'd seen in these places, I figured the T-con board has gone out or has a bad connection. I took the back off and gently poked at the socketed ribbons and sure enough, got the image back. It was mainly the far left ribbon, and it would snap back to stripes if I let off the pressure.... -
by zlr8rHey all, was wanting to know what cheapest option is for programming EC chips such as the MEC5107-LJ
i searched online and found such programmers as the SVOD4, Vertyanov Successor , and the RT809h type but didn’t see this particular BGA EC chips listed? So hoping for some advice here , cheers.09-16-2025, 09:54 AM -
by Borse2008Hi everyone,
Looking for some advice or opinions on what to do with a monitor issue I’ve run into. Apologies in advance is this crossovers a few forum categories.
I have a Dell U3425WE, which I've recently replaced with another model. That said, the original unit is still fully functional in terms of the display — it works perfectly over HDMI and DisplayPort. However, the USB-C and Thunderbolt 4 ports have stopped functioning correctly. The Issue:- The 90W Thunderbolt 4 port (circled in the photo) no longer charges or powers any device, including laptops or MacBooks.
- There’s
07-15-2025, 04:55 AM - Loading...
- No more items.
Leave a comment: