Hi all. I need to replace an SMD fuse on my camcorder and this is the first time I have had to do any SMD soldering so your advice would be appreciated. Below is a picture of the board that I am working on and I have highlighted the fuse that needs to be replaced. I managed to zoom in to take this picture but the fuse is really tiny and is sandwiched between other components so this is going to be a new milestone for me. I appreciate that I am going to have to buy a new soldering iron if you could advice on what I need please. I was thinking about putting a big soldering iron across the whole thing so I could heat up both sides in one go but don't know if this is the correct way of going about it? Thank you.
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F1,2 and 3 look like they are in parallel so if F3 meters open F2 will be the same.
to remove it put some solder on both ends and heat it from the center so both ends melt - then slide it off the pads
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Thanks for the reply. The photo I posted doesn't accurately show the problem as it is zoomed in. Please see the photo below which shows the board compared to a conventional soldering iron and a 1p coin. I can barely see the fuse without a magnifying glass. Are there soldering irons that have tips the size of a needle to be able to get to this thing or do I need a soldering station or hot air gun instead? Probably basic questions but I am just getting started with SMD stuff.
Also, the old fuse was 1.4A 32V but the closest replacement that I can find is 1.5A 32V. I assume it will be ok to make this 0.1A jump in fuse size?
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You have a soldering iron with screw on side... it is nice oportunity to try a make some precision tip from thick copper wire. Desoldering smd like your see on https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s1MY5d...cJCQMKAYcqIYzv at 17:40, followed by making fine tip... https://www.perforum.info/forum/vjes...d46d9fd01434e7 ... fuse will be ok, but check if something else in path is not fail.Comment
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Thanks for your reply. This afternoon I have just got my hands on a used smaller soldering iron that can accept interchangeable bits that go all the way down to about 0.1mm so now it is time to learn and practice on an old router PCB. I am a great believer in learning the skills before spending lots of money and this is perfect for me but I do need to get a freestanding magnifier soon.Comment
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i need a drink after seeing that "soldering" iron!!
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That is the actual soldering iron that Noah used when he built the arc. It is a piece of our heritage my friend.Comment
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Hi
I have a Quecoo T12-958 soldering iron and have noticed the soldering iron tip is not grounded
i dont want to use it like this
I only found out because the chassis ground wire from the ground lug / bannana socket came off
how can I ground the soldering iron tip
What I thought of doing is soldering a wire from the ground leg on the soldering iron tip connector to the ground lug
Would this be ok
There is a earth wire from the PSU to control board but its not connected to anything. -
Has anybody tested this product? Posting this question on a Facebook tech group I'm in got a few responses like "that kind of thing corrodes the tips" and "just using normal solder paste is much better" so I'm not looking for generic responses like that, but rather, does anybody know for certain whether this exact product is good or bad for soldering iron tips?
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Hi all,
I am testing a USB powered soldering iron. It's made by Kaiweets but I believe it's also sold under other names.
As a standard test, I checked whether there was any voltage leak from the tip - that said the thing runs on USB-C power delivery so am I correct that the whole unit is floating and not grounded? If I check, I measure 90V at the tip but I have a feeling that that is not relevant? Maybe caused by that capacitor between primary and secondary inside the PSU? I do not see current flowing at all.
In other words, do you think it's expected and... -
Hello, I disassembled this dead camera, and found this WTF… Two fuses soldered one above the other !
I was pretty sure nobody touched it before, but that can't be from factory. There is flux, and capacitor is probably missing.
The other weird thing : the fuses are « G » fuse : (0.75A – 8V), seems very low. The original fuse should be « O » : (32V 2,5A).
There is « O » mark beside. All fuses have the same mark letter on main board. So, I can deduce it's a « O » fuse.
And this correspond to the issus I saw : when I plug the battery, I measure the voltage dropping... -
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